Hi, I have a Pro Tele Neck with the Warmoth clear satin finish and want to apply a mock decal on the headstock. What should I use to spray over the decal?? Im thinking a clear satin laquer from a spray can. Any advice?? Thanks
I used Deft Lacquer on mine with no problem. I had read on this board that is what I should have used. It seems to have dried very hard and I buffed it out with Minwax furniture wax and it seems OK. Is there anything I should be worried about down the road. Here is a pic after 3 coats.
I've been wondering about this. My question is poly what? There are several different "poly" materials, with polyurethane and polyester being the most common coatings. So what exactly does Warmoth use?
I've heard they use a catalyzed material, which would indicate polyester.
Urethane is our primary finishing material though we do use several thin coats of polyester as a base coat to fill the wood grain. The process is first to fill the grain, then the color coat is applied. Finally the top coats are laid down before final sanding and buffing. If the body is dyed, these colors are put on the raw wood prior to the base coat application. There seems to be much controversy about finishing materials and poly seems much maligned… Without sinking into the depths of this debate, let us just say that our finishes seldom exceed twelve thousandths on an inch in thickness.
I don't know about the exact formulation of the finish(es) Warmoth uses, but in the past have been party to some real horror stories involving DIY finishers whom sprayed nitro lacquer on top of various types of "poly" products and wound up melting the poly already applied into a bubbling gooey mess.
"I used Deft Lacquer on mine with no problem. I had read on this board that is what I should have used. It seems to have dried very hard and I buffed it out with Minwax furniture wax and it seems OK. Is there anything I should be worried about down the road. Here is a pic after 3 coats."
Maybe it's OK on top of the finish Warmoth uses, or you got lucky, I certainly wouldn't advise mixing nitro lacquer and any sort of poly finish...
Jack, there are catalyzed poly finishes that are near impossible to solvent dissolve after being cured.
Fender uses a finish like this on all their insturments, except the really low end imports, and the USA reissues (and a few other models with nitro finishes). The low end imports have such bad wood, they use polyethylene as a finish, and it is a structural element in the guitar!~
On a Fender finish, you can nitro over the "poly" all you want. Its just about impervious to everything except very very strong solvents. Many paint strippers wont even touch it.
What Warmoth uses... I dunno. I know Frank Ford uses his "nitro test" where he puts a small dab of acetone on a concealed area to see if it swells or damages the finish. Most guitar finishes that are not nitro, fully pass the test and be nitro'd over. In fact, I've never heard of a factory finish that was "poly" that you cant nitro over, but its always safe to test.... and easy to do.
FOR DECALS - the safest way to nitro over a decal, is to use shellac as an intermediate coat. Shellac has the ability to stick to even polished metal, and will make a barrier between the decal and the nitro, sticking to both. Two coats of clear shellac fully dried, then nitro over that. Shellac also has the property of removing water from the decal itself, since its alcohol based. The water will cloud the shellac briefly (like it also does in lacquer) but this will go away (which doesn't always happen with lacquer). Thats a good feature!