Warmoth waterslide decals.. where?

[Triaxis]

Hi,

I'd like go give my guitar some identity why putting on a Warmoth decal and then finishing over it for longevity.  However, someone at Warmoth had the bright idea to not stock them anymore and instead they now have these vinyl decals that make the necks look cheap and toy'ish when applied (IMO).  Does anyone know where the old waterslide decals can be bought or made?

Thanks for your input.

Triaxis

 

[AutoBat]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=custom+waterslide+decals+guitar

 

[line6man]

What's wrong with the metal decals?

 

[Triaxis]

What's wrong with the metal decals?

Are those waterslide or vinyl? 
This may be a moot point now as someone has offered to mail me a couple of their spares.  Very nice of them.

 

[Triaxis]

What's wrong with the metal decals?

Are those waterslide or vinyl? 
This may be a moot point now as someone has offered to mail me a couple of their spares.  Very nice of them.

Heya Trouble Treble, did you get my email reply?  I don't think my messages are going out.

Triaxis

 

[line6man]

What's wrong with the metal decals?

Are those waterslide or vinyl? 
This may be a moot point now as someone has offered to mail me a couple of their spares.  Very nice of them.

I don't know what they are made of, but they are metal decals.

 

[Cagey]

The metal ones are the only kind I use, and I'm pretty sure they're made out of metal <grin>

It's just a heavy foil with an adhesive back. I like them a lot, but I'd like them more if the "Made in USA" part wasn't so flimsy. I've only got one out of five to transfer that part successfully, and I'm usually pretty good at that sort of thing. But, I figure if people don't know Warmoth is an American made product, they don't know Warmoth, and it's a lively conversation topic. I've yet to meet anyone who isn't positively impressed with their products.

The metal logos are nice because there is no "carrier" per se. The letters are standalone, so you don't have to worry about finishing over them, or having some film cover up the wood and look schlocky.

 

[nexrex]

I like them a lot, but I'd like them more if the "Made in USA" part wasn't so flimsy. I've only got one out of five to transfer that part successfully, and I'm usually pretty good at that sort of thing.

Good to hear i'm not the only one with this problem. I spent a lot of time as a child assembling plastic models kits of military planes, so I am very familiar with how to transfer water slide and stick on decals.

 

[Cagey]

I didn't do planes until I was much older and had the money to build ones that would fly. But, when I was a kid cars, ships, and rockets were all fair game. Got back into rockets some years back when it seemed like mice and gerbils were getting the short end of the stick in the aeronautics game. Mickey (short for Microsoft) Mouse survived 17 missions before he was inadvertently killed by landing in the rocket-eating woods. One of the dingbats in mission control thought shooting the branch the rocket's parachute was caught on would let the rocket fall and we'd get Mickey back, but the idiot used a shotgun to try to break the branch. It was a tall tree, and the shot spread did Mickey (and the rocket) a lot of damage. Very sad. Fortunately, Mickey had lotsa children, so research continued...

Planes are another story.

 

[JimBeed]

Yes Ghenghis gerbil couldn't comprehend the control systems  :laughing7:

 

[Cagey]

Well, it wasn't for lack of trying. There was a lot of frantic sniffing and pawing around in the payload section before launch. But, there's only so much you can do in an inescapable vacant tube.

 

[richship]

It's just a heavy foil with an adhesive back. I like them a lot, but I'd like them more if the "Made in USA" part wasn't so flimsy. I've only got one out of five to transfer that part successfully, and I'm usually pretty good at that sort of thing.

For the tiny letters, I found I had to carefully hold each down with a knife blade until they were completely off the transfer paper. That last edge would stick a little bit - not a problem with the big letters, but enough to yank the little ones off.

I've found dry transfers to work well also. No carrier and easy to cover with a finish.

 

[Triaxis]

Hi,

I'd like go give my guitar some identity why putting on a Warmoth decal and then finishing over it for longevity.  However, someone at Warmoth had the bright idea to not stock them anymore and instead they now have these vinyl decals that make the necks look cheap and toy'ish when applied (IMO).  Does anyone know where the old waterslide decals can be bought or made?

Thanks for your input.

Triaxis

My source ended up not having any of the old waterslide decals, if anyone knows where I can get one or two of them I'd appreciate the heads up.

Triaxis

 

[Cagey]

I thought I had some leftovers because I always buy the metal ones, but it turns out they're the sticker-type, too. I agree; they're cheesy. Not what you'd expect out of a quality builder like Warmoth. But, to be fair, they may have had too many complaints about the water-slide version. As easy as they are to apply, some people still struggle with such things.

However, there are places that will make decals for you. Check these folks out...

The Decal Shop
Rothko and Frost
Best Decals

The first two are in the UK, not sure about the third one. But, even if they have to come from overseas, it's something they can put in an envelope and mail it so you can't get hurt on shipping.

 

[Cagey]

Incidentally, there are places that sell unprinted 8.5"x11" waterslide decal material sheets, such as DecalPaper.com. That way, you can design and print your own until hell won't have it, and maybe even supply others. Don't bother with the inkjet version, they're difficult to finish over since inkjet ink is easily dissolved, often with just water. But, the laser version will take all kinds of abuse, even from lacquer, because instead of ink they use toner, which is heat-fused plastic particles.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I did my own with paper from decalpaper.com on my laser printer.  Used online software to trace the warmoth logo and it came out great.  Shellac'd and lacquered over the top of it to melt it into the head and you can't tell it wasn't a factory job.  You can see it in this thread: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=16278.0