Update on my Jerry Project

[Wana_make_a_guitar]

I dunno, hit it with steel wool and then get a polishing cloth and see what that does.

 

[DangerousR6]

I figured that durability is what would sell me on a particular coating.....  Poly is definately tough stuff.  I didn't look at Lowes or the Depot, I tend to shop at my local hardware store, they have survived a Lowes, a Depot and a Walmart, so I tend to go there and pay a little more....My neighbor across the street is the manager of the hardware store too....  I did see laquer there, but I went with what I know how to use...

Ok so my next question is this....  The aerosol goes on a little rougher than what I would like as a finished surface... Kinda reminds me of 400 grit sandpaper..... It feels like overspray on a car when you get a touch up done.....  So what do I do now?   If I hit it with steel wool, I will lose all the shine, and sandpaper is going to do the same thing, so what will bring the shine back after I level the surface?  Rubbing compound?  That was what my dad suggested, use rubbing compound with a rag or a buffing wheel to level the finish up and get a real deep shine....  Just asking about my next move.  I have one can of the poly on the guitar now, I was gonna put another can on it to make the finish a little thicker and look a little deeper now that I got the hang of it...  Your thoughts on what else I should do...

As I said in another post.... I am ordering my neck today Whopee!!!!!  Maple neck, maple fretboard, 1 3/4 nut with a boat contour, I'm gonna love my Washington state made Louisville Slugger!!!!!

If you're finished spraying, then you could start wet sanding with 600 and work your way to 1500-2000 grit paper. Then rub it out with a polishing compound, I used Turtle wax and a soft cotton buffing wheel on my cordless drill..Shines like a diamond... :icon_biggrin:

 

[stubhead]

It depends mostly on your tools. A big shop will go from 400->600 wet/dry paper right to the buffing wheels, about three different ones loaded with successively finer grits. A CORDLESS drill sounds DANGEROUS, R6 - dangerous on batteries that is, jeez I'd just rub it by hand. Fresh poly needs to set till it's hard - it'll stop smelling , if you can smell anything that means it's still curing, huh? 7, 10, 14 days. Even after it's cured, it's still pretty soft stuff, even hand-rubbing I'd jump in right after the 600 (OR some gray plastic "steel wool") with the compound, Turtle Wax is fine. It's just like your car or motorcycle, once the sealed coat is cured.

 

[DangerousR6]

It depends mostly on your tools. A big shop will go from 400->600 wet/dry paper right to the buffing wheels, about three different ones loaded with successively finer grits. A CORDLESS drill sounds DANGEROUS, R6 - dangerous on batteries that is, jeez I'd just rub it by hand. Fresh poly needs to set till it's hard - it'll stop smelling , if you can smell anything that means it's still curing, huh? 7, 10, 14 days. Even after it's cured, it's still pretty soft stuff, even hand-rubbing I'd jump in right after the 600 (OR some gray plastic "steel wool") with the compound, Turtle Wax is fine. It's just like your car or motorcycle, once the sealed coat is cured.

Nah, not to dangerous on batteries. I gotta a badass cordless, it's got a V8 in it....... :laughing7:

I only wet sanded mine to 1000 grit, but others like to go a few steps beyond that...But as you said stub, curing time is a big factor, I let mine sit for almost a month after the final spray down...