Leaderboard

Trigger Pulled!

exaN said:
Ah yes, I think I'll go for stainless since I like to abuse my strings :P

And this is going to be a hardtail so no tremolo cover :)

You won't be sorry. The things are smooth as glass, and a joy to play. I don't know why more manufacturers don't put them on, at least on their higher-end fiddles. It's not like they cost that much more.

I saw that it was a hardtail, but when I was mentally going through everything that needed screws but wouldn't come with them, I forgot about that <grin>
 
Ah, yes. Neck plate, too. And if doing gold or black hardware, the various screws should match, and you'd have to add matching pickup screws as well.
 
When you just can't wait :laughing7:

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Man... now I can't decide between a rosewood, ebony or maple fretboard :sad1:

What would you guys go with? :dontknow:
 
exaN said:
Man... now I can't decide between a rosewood, ebony or maple fretboard :sad1:

What would you guys go with? :dontknow:
Personally, I prefer ebony 4 times out of 5. If I can't have that, then rosewood is acceptable, but there are other fingerboard woods I'd look at first simply because rosewood is so common. Maple isn't a choice because it needs a finish. Finished fingerboards feel funny until they start to wear, then they get ugly. If the guitar is just meant to be a showpiece, then maple would be ok. Otherwise...
 
Cagey said:
exaN said:
Man... now I can't decide between a rosewood, ebony or maple fretboard :sad1:

What would you guys go with? :dontknow:
Personally, I prefer ebony 4 times out of 5. If I can't have that, then rosewood is acceptable, but there are other fingerboard woods I'd look at first simply because rosewood is so common. Maple isn't a choice because it needs a finish. Finished fingerboards feel funny until they start to wear, then they get ugly. If the guitar is just meant to be a showpiece, then maple would be ok. Otherwise...

I still like them all though :P . I think I'll go with ebony.

One question: what would be the best fretwire to choose if I don't want to feel the wood of the fingerboard when I dig into notes? (I don't want it too high either though)
 
exaN said:
I still like them all though :P . I think I'll go with ebony.

One question: what would be the best fretwire to choose if I don't want to feel the wood of the fingerboard when I dig into notes? (I don't want it too high either though)
One of the reasons I like ebony so much is that it doesn't punish you for touching it. It's very smooth without feeling sticky like a finished 'board does, or offer any resistance like some unfinished 'boards do. So, you can put just about any fret on it you'd like. Some of the early Les Pauls could use shorter, wider frets because of the ebony 'boards they put on them that let them play very fast and accurate. Lead players liked the speed, and rhythm players liked that they weren't fretting the thing out of tune by sharping notes. I really think the larger radius and ebony 'boards were one of the reasons Les Pauls became so widely sought after. It certainly wasn't because they were comfortable to wear.

Personally, I like a large fret; what I like to call "railroad ties". Tall gives me a positive sense of the string and where it's at for stretching and vibrato, and wide allows for several redressings before refretting if you play it long enough. Warmoth only charges a $20 adder for stainless steel, so dressing isn't an issue, but tall takes getting used to if you haven't played that dimension for a long time. It's easy to put chords out of tune. Another nice thing about SS, as long as we're on it, is it doesn't change the tone at all, but they're glassy-smooth and stay that way. Just a joy to play. There's no difference at all in tone between those and the traditional nickel-sliver frets, although it does show up if you do a lot of hammer-ons and pull-offs. The notes played that way don't sound like ghost notes, they sound deliberate and articulate. Combined with a touchy and compressed tube amp, it'll sound like you're picking at lightning speed. Steve Vai and Joe Satriani are big on that sort of thing.
 
Cagey said:
exaN said:
I still like them all though :P . I think I'll go with ebony.

One question: what would be the best fretwire to choose if I don't want to feel the wood of the fingerboard when I dig into notes? (I don't want it too high either though)
One of the reasons I like ebony so much is that it doesn't punish you for touching it. It's very smooth without feeling sticky like a finished 'board does, or offer any resistance like some unfinished 'boards do. So, you can put just about any fret on it you'd like. Some of the early Les Pauls could use shorter, wider frets because of the ebony 'boards they put on them that let them play very fast and accurate. Lead players liked the speed, and rhythm players liked that they weren't fretting the thing out of tune by sharping notes. I really think the larger radius and ebony 'boards were one of the reasons Les Pauls became so widely sought after. It certainly wasn't because they were comfortable to wear.

Personally, I like a large fret; what I like to call "railroad ties". Tall gives me a positive sense of the string and where it's at for stretching and vibrato, and wide allows for several redressings before refretting if you play it long enough. Warmoth only charges a $20 adder for stainless steel, so dressing isn't an issue, but tall takes getting used to if you haven't played that dimension for a long time. It's easy to put chords out of tune. Another nice thing about SS, as long as we're on it, is it doesn't change the tone at all, but they're glassy-smooth and stay that way. Just a joy to play. There's no difference at all in tone between those and the traditional nickel-sliver frets, although it does show up if you do a lot of hammer-ons and pull-offs. The notes played that way don't sound like ghost notes, they sound deliberate and articulate. Combined with a touchy and compressed tube amp, it'll sound like you're picking at lightning speed. Steve Vai and Joe Satriani are big on that sort of thing.

Thanks a lot man, very useful info!
 
It now exists!!!

31003_400513867000_528942000_4604551_8201127_n.jpg


31003_400513882000_528942000_4604552_6585532_n.jpg


All I got for now :sad1:

Gotta say the finish is flawless, thanks Warmoth!
 
aaahhhhhhhh
the low resolution pics hurt my eyes  :doh:
can't wait to finally see this one come together :headbang:
 
Patrick said:
aaahhhhhhhh
the low resolution pics hurt my eyes  :doh:
can't wait to finally see this one come together :headbang:

Haha, I promise I'll take pictures with my sister's D300 when it's all done :headbang:
 
GAS got the better of me...

I ordered the rest of the parts except the pickups :P

Pics soon...
 
exaN said:
GAS got the better of me...

I ordered the rest of the parts except the pickups :P

Pics soon...

Been there, done that. Ended up ordering everything except the trem instead of slowly buying parts week by week. Thought I'd wait to buy a Callaham trem until the rest of theparts were paid off.

That lasted two days. Ordered the trem too. Now it should (hopefully) all be here by the weekend.

I'm REALLY hoping it rains this weekend so I can't mow the lawn or do some other waste of time activity when I could be putting a guitar together!

 
Just a quick question, how long does it usually take Warmoth to prepare a showcase neck and make a custom pickguard?
 
well if a full custom neck + finish takes 8-9 weeks i'd say that a finished showcase neck would take 3-4 weeks. i'm just ballparkin it here
 
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