Transparent Brown Nitro Spraying Help

[Smallestparts]

So, I've been working on an ash jaguar body with the goal of getting a transparent brown - I've worked with aerosol nitro before - solid colors and clear I don't have much of a problem with. I'm, however, having a very hard time getting the transparent brown down. I'm using a test board of ash at the moment, so no concerns that I've done any irreversible damage.

For more context, I've tested StewMac Tobacco Brown (which was VERY dark), Red Mahogany and a Behlen walnut (which I'd love if I could keep uniformly transparent).

I feel like my choices have been transparent and blotchy/uneven, or just full on opaque brown. I'm using heated cans, very thin coats to start. Is it a case where some of the blotchiness will go away as the subsequent clear coats melt in, or is it really just a sign that a finish like this using spray cans is pretty advanced, and above my skill-set?

I can handle if the answer is the latter, I'm just looking for any tips before I throw in the towel and resign myself to an opaque brown finish.

thank you all!

 

[bagman67]

For some species you can get a lot of mileage out of applying a wash coat of clear, whether nitro or shellac, before applying a color coat.  The clear undercoat helps the transparent color go on more evenly.

 

[Smallestparts]

For some species you can get a lot of mileage out of applying a wash coat of clear, whether nitro or shellac, before applying a color coat.  The clear undercoat helps the transparent color go on more evenly.

Ah - yes, forgot to mention that I did have 3 coats of nitro sanding sealer under the color coat. Maybe the answer is 4 coats?

 

[bagman67]

Well, that's unlikely to make much difference - the sealer would serve the same purpose as the wash coat to which I refer above.


Perhaps you could look at some replacement nozzles for your spray cans?  This video might give you some ideas.


[youtube]JRJVE_KK3fU[/youtube]


These are the Stew Mac version, but there's other stuff out there you can research. 

https://www.amazon.com/StewMac-Aerosol-Spray-Nozzles-Pack/dp/B01N6V13Q9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=spray+can+nozzles+female&qid=1564676061&s=gateway&sr=8-1

 

[Smallestparts]

Or, maybe the answer is just to grain fill, stain and lacquer - bypass the tinted nitro altogether. hmmmm

 

[bagman67]

That might do the trick.  Often spraying a toner is recommended as an alternative to staining, at least on species where you might get uneven uptake of the pigment, such as straight-grained maple or alder.  But ash, in my experience, takes dyes and stains well.

 

[Smallestparts]

That might do the trick.  Often spraying a toner is recommended as an alternative to staining, at least on species where you might get uneven uptake of the pigment, such as straight-grained maple or alder.  But ash, in my experience, takes dyes and stains well.

I think that might be the path of least resistance. My plan is using CA glue as grain filler (may even mix some black in there so the grain pops a big more). In your experience, do you think I'm safe to grain fill and then dye / stain?

 

[AirCap]

Doubt you could dye the wood after using cyanoacrylate as a filler. Super glue seals the wood against most any liquids. In fact - if you dye, do it first or immediately after grain filling with something other than super glue.