Trans red on Mahogany with Wipe On Poly…

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

The title says it all.

I’m looking to do the aforementioned finish on an all mahogany body to make another TFS6 Gen 2 with this finish. I already have the neck after acquiring it at Warmoth’s Guitarnival from a few weeks back.

Could I accomplish this finish just by mixing in a bit of Mixol with some poly and applying once I do the black grain fill and sand back? Then after that, successive clear coats of wipe on poly until all scuffing, level sanding is completed, then onto fine sanding and buff?

https://www.gibson.com/en-US/p/Electric-Guitar/SG-Standard-'61-Faded-with-57-Classic-Underwound/Vintage-Cherry-Satin

https://images.ctfassets.net/m8onsx4mm13s/2MOKzk7rE23LMSUp3JuL0/e19d3cd5356f69d763da805a5254279f/SG61F5725AYNH3_211550275_7_Pickups.png?w=1200&h=1200

 

[Hagwood]

I would imagine the Gibson is tinted lacquer sprayed on, similar to how I did my Meadowhawk back in blue. But I think your idea of tinted wipe on would work as well. Just experiment with the amount of tint to be dark enough but still show the grain. Then like you said, add clear coats and buff out when cured.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

This = “Very Yes!”

This is the exact finish I’m looking to accomplish

 

[Hagwood]

This = “Very Yes!”

This is the exact finish I’m looking to accomplish

Just about what I did with the Meadowhawk minus the walnut stain. I’ve never seen tinted Nitro in a rattle can, so you would pretty much have to get a spray gun setup. Not that hard to get into really, assuming you already have a compressor.

 

[Hagwood]

I’ll be danged, Oxford makes it in an aerosol. There ya go !!!

Heritage Cherry Red | Guitar Paint | Nitro Lacquer | Oxford Guitar Supply

Shop Heritage Cherry Red Nitrocellulose Guitar Paint at Oxford Guitar Supply to add a classic custom color finish to your build. Order online now.

oxfordguitarsupply.com

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I’m thinking that I can still accomplish the same finish ideally with poly.
Grain fill.
Sand back,
Poly Sealer coats,
Mixol mixed in a poly batch for several coats.
Build up layers of light clear, level sanding as needed.
Buff, polish, assemble.

Thotz?

 

[Hagwood]

I’m thinking that I can still accomplish the same finish ideally with poly.
Grain fill.
Sand back,
Poly Sealer coats,
Mixol mixed in a poly batch for several coats.
Build up layers of light clear, level sanding as needed.
Buff, polish, assemble.

Thotz?

Yep, I bet that will work. I think you’re a little limited on the mixol colors, but you can mix them. I actually put a tiny bit of red in my blue to get the shade I wanted. Not enough to make purple, but just change the shade. You may need to add a little blue to your red to get the right color, it’s a pretty bright red.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Yep, I bet that will work. I think you’re a little limited on the mixol colors, but you can mix them. I actually put a tiny bit of red in my blue to get the shade I wanted. Not enough to make purple, but just change the shade. You may need to add a little blue to your red to get the right color, it’s a pretty bright red.

I’m going for that classic Gibson Trans Cherry Red on Mahogany like this SG in the vid.

I grain filled the neck today with Minwax natural color Grey grain filler mixed with some rosewood sawdust to grain fill the pours to a dark brown/black, sanded back to 400 grit. The neck is dead smooth and I have the contrast that I need. I’ll let that neck hang until I purchase the body blank, make the cuts, then catch it up to the neck. From there, the finish process for body/neck will be in unison. So, that’s it for a few months on the TFS6. Back to Turq for the time being.

 

[Hagwood]

I’m thinking that I can still accomplish the same finish ideally with poly.
Grain fill.
Sand back,
Poly Sealer coats,
Mixol mixed in a poly batch for several coats.
Build up layers of light clear, level sanding as needed.
Buff, polish, assemble.

Thotz?

So while I was waiting between nitro coats yesterday I played around with some scrap mahogany I had laying around.

I had already grain filled it, so I followed the video you posted above and put some walnut stain, then added mixol true red to some Minwax wipe on poly for 3 coats. Not sure if the true red is the right color, but it's pretty good, just have to add a little at a time until you get the right darkness. The second pic has no walnut stain underneath on the right hand side, so definitely brighter. I think a few coats of color then 3 or 4 clear over it would work well to be able to buff out and polish. I'll add some clear tonight.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Really like the right side of the second pic, quite nice!

 

[bagman67]

Really like the right side of the second pic, quite nice!

Seconded.

 

[Hagwood]

So while I was waiting between nitro coats yesterday I played around with some scrap mahogany I had laying around.

I had already grain filled it, so I followed the video you posted above and put some walnut stain, then added mixol true red to some Minwax wipe on poly for 3 coats. Not sure if the true red is the right color, but it's pretty good, just have to add a little at a time until you get the right darkness. The second pic has no walnut stain underneath on the right hand side, so definitely brighter. I think a few coats of color then 3 or 4 clear over it would work well to be able to buff out and polish. I'll add some clear tonight.

The secondView attachment 66112View attachment 66113

Yeah, I think adding the walnut stain definitely isn't necessary. I may try this on an Iommi SG build someday myself.......

 

[Spud]

Really like the right side of the second pic, quite nice!

Now a bit of face rubbing and..................boom........perfection!

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Gloss & Buff to a wooded mirror shine!

 

[Hagwood]

Gloss & Buff to a wooded mirror shine!

Well I had a hard time getting the wipe on thick enough to sand and buff without burning through, so I experimented with the same tint in Minwax Polycrylic gloss. Used my good white china bristle brush to apply. 2 coats of color and 3 coats of clear. Torch to pop the bubbles. Light sanding between coats. Actually worked better than I was expecting, very impressive finish. I may try spraying it with the gun when I have a chance. This is with very rushed sanding with assilex up to 3000 and mequiars compound. Not perfectly level sanded.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

if done properly, it could take a week or more to get thick enough if you are letting it cure properly between coats. Curing time between coats is crucial to success. That looks stunning!

 

[NedRyerson]

As my daughter used to say when she was still learning to talk, "so shimey!"