Top route too small?

[Gammit10]

I usually attach a length of shielded cable to the output jack while outside the body, then thread the cable through the hole as I'm mounting the jack+plate. This leaves the other end of the cable loose in the control cavity, where you can ultimately connect that to whatever it needs to be connected to. But, there's no right way to do it. You could go from the inside out if it looks like it would be easier for you to do it that way.

Cool, that's what I tried to do. But the jack won't fit into the jack route. It's supposed to be 3/4" but it's a few mm too snug.

 

[Cagey]

...the jack won't fit into the jack route. It's supposed to be 3/4" but it's a few mm too snug.

Yeah, a typical 1/4" phone jack...

...wants a 7/8" hole to fit into, which is 3mm larger in diameter than the 3/4" hole you specified.

If you're very lucky, have lived well and been kind to the unfortunate, you'll be able to bend those connection tabs closer to the main jack body, maybe file on the fiberglass insulating wafers a bit to reduce overall jack diameter, and fit that unit into a 3/4" hole. But, I wouldn't hold my breath while trying pull that off - you might suffocate.

Another thing you can do is get a short bit of 3/4" wood dowel, glue it into that jack hole so the end is flush with the outside of your body, then re-drill the output jack hole to 7/8".

Finally, the least fun way out of this is to try sanding the inside diameter of your existing hole until you have enough clearance to get that jack in. Or, perhaps a combination of the first suggestion and this one.

And before you even ask, no, I don't know why Warmoth offers 1/2" and 3/4" output jack holes for some bodies. The only thing they're good for is disappointing unwary users when they finally realize that the only output jack hole that works is 7/8". Unless, of course, you order the rear-mount water hose fitting on your control cavity cover and need a drain hole. But, hard as it is to believe, not one customer has ever done that!

Besides, the 7/8" hole would work better for that, too.  :laughing7:

 

[Fat Pete]

When not already drilled, they offer the 7/8" holes on showcase unfinished bodies but not on finished ones. One of the great mysteries of our time.
:dontknow:

 

[BigSteve22]

Just my 2 cents, either CTS or Bourns pots will serve you well. I have always used CTS in my guitars, but when I worked for a Mil contractor we always used Bournes. Here's a link to the Bourns Model 82 spec sheets. https://www.bourns.com/docs/product-datasheets/82.pdf

Nice body BTW.  :icon_thumright:

 

[ghotiphry]

I always thought on bass bodies at least, if the body is a one piece you can get a 7/8" side hole.  Otherwise, with a laminate top, I've only seen up to 3/4" available.  At least from the showcase.

I will say that I've not had issues with the bending of the tabs on CTS jacks to make them fit the hole, and have not had to shave down the insulating wafers.

 

[Cagey]

I will say that I've not had issues with the bending of the tabs on CTS jacks to make them fit the hole, and have not had to shave down the insulating wafers.

Apparently, you're lucky, have lived well and have been kind to the unfortunate. Me, I'm just an old curmudgeon who won't even let the neighbor's brats play on my lawn. Output jacks know this about me, and exert their own petty tyrannies  :laughing7: