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Threaded Inserts Installed Into Roasted Maple

Bdam123

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I got a roasted maple neck coming my way and I want to install SS threaded inserts. I’ve done this before about 10 years ago on a regular maple neck and was successful but was just hoping to get some tips or general pitfalls to try to avoid when dealing with roasted maple.

Should I go from a small bit and work my way up to my target bit? Brand new sharp brad point would be ideal correct?

Should I tape over the pilots before drilling to mitigate chip out?

Who produces the highest quality inserts nowadays?

I also sold my little table top drill press years ago and I’m going to purchase a new one for this project. Do you guys have a recommendation on a table top unit that won’t break the bank? I got about 4-5 necks that I would like to eventually convert so I’m not against investing into something of relative quality.

Thanks for any guidance.
 
You need a forstner bit. Drill it the right size the first time. Drilling in incremental sizes will cause chip-out.
Taping over the holes won't help anything.
Not sure why you want stainless steel. Brass might be better (with stainless screws). I got mine from McMaster Carr.
 
You need a forstner bit. Drill it the right size the first time. Drilling in incremental sizes will cause chip-out.
Taping over the holes won't help anything.
Not sure why you want stainless steel. Brass might be better (with stainless screws). I got mine from McMaster Carr.
To completely honest, the only reason why I'm opting for SS is because I watched a video on installing inserts and the dude said don't use brass because it sucks. In your opinion, why brass over SS?
 
To completely honest, the only reason why I'm opting for SS is because I watched a video on installing inserts and the dude said don't use brass because it sucks. In your opinion, why brass over SS?
Like metals can seize. Dissimilar metals don't.
I'd like to know how brass inserts "suck". I have 2 guitars with them and they work great.
 
Like metals can seize. Dissimilar metals don't.
I'd like to know how brass inserts "suck". I have 2 guitars with them and they work great.
Got it.

I don’t know, I just took someone’s opinion for face value because they made a video on the topic haha
 
These posts are linked to from the Welcome to the Forum thread in my signature. But here they are directly.


 
Use a good holding fixture for a drill press, bubble level/align neck. Do not clamp against the fret ends. The W neck has wood screw pilot holes already. Use a new appropriate size, set depth drill bit and a self tapping metal wood insert. Use the drill press with an appropriate driver to manually turn and drive the insert. Coat each insert and bore with wood glue prior to installation. Insert should seat slightly below neck heel level.
 
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Biggest general pitfall on roasted maple is its prone to chipping. I use a procedure similar to the one from the Cagey post, but with a step to slightly bevel the top of the holes with a large countersink before tapping. (If that step was in there I missed it) I got that idea from this tdpri post long ago.

On Fender style necks I use the McMaster 8-32 black phosphate steel inserts 90016A009. Those come coated with Red Loc-Tite which I scrub off with a toothbrush and denatured alcohol. I glue them in with 2-part epoxy. Maybe overkill but.. 🤷‍♂️

Years before I had been taught to use the huge 1/4-20 version of those same inserts on new builds by a pro luthier who got the idea from Taylor acoustics. That was again total overkill and of course it doesn't work for converting a Fender style neck.
 
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