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The "Questions Too Stupid To Deserve Their Own thread" Thread.

Cagey said:
BlueFirebird said:
I can beat the crap out of the strings  all day, and everything stays in tune.

You shouldn't beat your strings, man. They don't know any better until you teach them. Just give them a stern lecture and a time-out to think over what they've done and what you've said. Unless they're profoundly retarded, they'll learn. I know you think beating them works since they stay in tune, but that's just them cowering in their saddles out of fear. It's better if you work together in peace and harmony.

Your probably right.  I don't want SPS (String Protective Service) on my case.  
 
Perzactly. You don't want them taking your strings away from you and putting them on a banjo. They'll never be the same after that. It's a well-documented fact that banjo strings always end up in the trash. Can't have that. People will talk.

Dim: Didja hear about Mr. Firebird?
Dum: No. Do tell!
Dim: They took away his strings!
Dum: No! Why?
Dim: Sonofabitch beat them.
Dum: Oh, no!
Dim: 'Strue. According to him, they couldn't take the tension.
Dum: Well, that's no excuse!
Dim: You don't have to tell me. I just wonder what's next. No-load pots?
Dum: Bite your tongue!
Dim: I heard the B string snapped, and ended up in the trash.
Dum: I'll pray for it. Hand me the vodka.
 
I need the whole ohms in the amp to speaker configuration explained. i kind of get it, but not really. I have a 4x10 cab and it says 8 ohms, does that mean each speaker is 2 ohms, or each are 8? Also, my head is either 4 ohms or 8 ohms and I need to replace a 1x12 speaker, so should i get a 4 ohm or 8 ohm? And which speaker brand should I get and from where?
 
Plain and simple, it means the cab is 8 ohms.  It could be four 2ohm speakers (which I've never seen) in series, but is most likely four 32 ohm speakers in parallel or 2 pairs of 8 ohm speakers in series with the pairs parallelled together.  If you need to replace one of the speakers, replace it with the ohm value of the speaker that is existing.  Your head has an impedence rating of 4 or 8 ohms.  Theoretically, there should be no difference in output between either if you have the appropriate cab load with head rating.  That is, 4 ohms is necessarily louder than 8 ohms when the cab is matched to the rating of the head.  Lower ohm values do increase volume when they are on a head rated for multiple ohm values that only have one output; more common on all SS heads and bass amps (also, don't go below the minimum rating).  It will say something like 260 watts @ 8 ohms, 400 watts @ 4 ohms, 600 watts @ 2 ohms. 

Since your head is rated at 4 and 8 ohms, you can one 8 ohm cab and run it out of the 8 ohm output, or run (2) 8 ohm cabs for a 4 ohm total load out of the 4 ohm output.
 
Dang it... I know you're explaining it well, I just can't understand. So, when the speaker are in series the ohms add up, and when in parallel you simply divide  (number of ohms) / (number of speakers)?

And it's rated at 4 / 8 ohms because the wattage difference makes the output the same, right?

And the reason two 8 ohm cabs would work for the 4 ohm output is because they'd be in parallel...?
 
10maxpower01 said:
Dang it... I know you're explaining it well, I just can't understand. So, when the speaker are in series the ohms add up, and when in parallel you simply divide  (number of ohms) / (number of speakers)?

In series, they add straight up.  In parallel, it seems that simple because there's 2 and they're the same value.  It's a hair more complicated than that.

10maxpower01 said:
And it's rated at 4 / 8 ohms because the wattage difference makes the output the same, right?


Not exactly.  In your case, the different output jack are wired to different taps on an impedance transformer designed to correspond and compensate with the rating of the cab.


10maxpower01 said:
And the reason two 8 ohm cabs would work for the 4 ohm output is because they'd be in parallel...?

Bingo.  What you'd do is run a cable from the amp to the 1st cab, then to the 2nd cab.  Or, put a splitter at the amp and carry a cable to each cab.  Either way is a parallel connection.
 
I found this equation (impedance of cab 1 X impedance of cab 2) / (impedance of cab 1 + impedance of cab 2) here: http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_amps/how_to_hook_up_heads_and_cabinets.html He goes on to say "An alternate method is to theoretically treat the single 4-ohm cab as two 8-ohm cabs."

This site is specifically designed for people looking for their first guitar and rig, so I just want to be sure he's not dumbing things down and in the process getting it wrong. It sound logically sound to me, though.
 
That formula works and there is another that I use.  Adding (2) 8 ohm cabs to get 4 ohms seems like simple division, but when you start adding more than 2 and you get into different ohm values, the formulas (and memorization of common configurations) help more.
 
The reason I posed this question in the first place is I blew a speaker for the first time last week  :tard:. I am wanting to know why it happened so it doesn't happen again. It wasn't like it was gradually getting worse and worse of the last months. We were playing a set with not mics on the amps and the sound guy said "Hey you need to turn up!" So, I reluctantly turned the gain up another notch and just before the end of the song it had blown. Was the amp and cab mix bad this whole time and I just found that out the hard way, or does gain do something with the wattage and ohms?  :dontknow:

And the other reason being need some feedback on speakers(no pun intended).  :icon_tongue:
 
Bit of a necropost here, but I really think it qualifies as a "question too stupid to deserve its own thread."  :laughing7:

Will a thinline Tele pickguard fit a regular Tele body? It's not an option in the body builder...
 
There are a number of things they can do that don't show up in the body/neck builders, so if there's no obvious reason your choice isn't available, you just have to call. Many times they can do it, but it's an off-line operation and may involve additional costs. The automated builders aren't the final say. Gotta talk to a human. 
 
Well it's not exactly a pressing issue, as I'm not going to buy a Tele body tomorrow or anything. I'm mostly just curious. In the eventuality that I do decide to build a Tele (which I will someday), I'd like a Thinline PG, but with the weight of a solid Tele--I don't really like overly light guitars. I can't think of any reason for it not to work. You're a human, aren't ya Cagey? What do you think?  :icon_biggrin:
 
SPRINKLES said:
doot.jpg

Does that screw REALLY have to stick out that far?

Does that neck really have to look like a baboon's backside?  :icon_biggrin:

I mean absolutely no offense. In fairness, I am an exotic wood-averse luddite.
 
Jonesey said:
You're a human, aren't ya Cagey? What do you think?  :icon_biggrin:

My ex-wives would beg to differ. I'm not sure what you're asking. I thought I already said what I thought. But, I've got opinions up the wazoo, so if you need more, set me a task <grin>
 
Anyone remember the costs of doing a tummy cut and a forearm cut on a body that requires it be done by hand (Iceman, Of course)

It's 60 bucks each right?
 
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