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Tell me why I need a raw neck

Don't know if you need another yay to drive the point home.

My first "W" neck was maple/maple because I had always wanted a maple fretboard. I went for the satin finish and I do like that neck. Although if I would have had this thread I probably would have put a canary/canary neck.

Since that I've jumped on the bandwagon and done a goncalo alves/goncalo alves and a bubinga/bubinga and I will never buy anything else from "W" but raw necks. They just end up feeling so damn nice to play plus I'm really loving how the goncalo alves is aging as it's picking up the oils from my hands - just gorgeous.

Do it you won't be disappointed
 
In addition to what everyone says (feel, tone, etc) it just looks awesome!!!
and at least it doesn't look like something you buy from McGuitarcenter, unless it's a $6K PRS...
 
Personally I can not think of any reason to tell you that you need a raw neck
I love the 2 I have, the first one was so nice I am stuck on Goncalo avles necks.
They really play nice s you never seem to stick and you feel like your hands are so light.
I wonder sometimes what the drawback is going be when it shows up.
 
Jusatele said:
Personally I can not think of any reason to tell you that you need a raw neck
I love the 2 I have, the first one was so nice I am stuck on Goncalo avles necks.
They really play nice s you never seem to stick and you feel like your hands are so light.
I wonder sometimes what the drawback is going be when it shows up.

Just an ass whoopin by the eco police if the wood becomes endangered in a few years and they try to get you even though it was built years before it was endangered, BUT thats a whole can of worms i wont open haha

Definately agree, going back to play my fender p bass my hand felt like it was sticking so much when my five string z, i can do random slides and everything without any worry my hand will stick, Same pressure and hand position near enough, Just one was silky smooth, the other rather tacky i felt.
 
jwl68th said:
Thanks for all the input, I think I'm going to take the plunge and go for a raw neck this time!!

Good choice, because I was going to respond with "if you have to ask, you may not be ready for one"
 
my first W neck was wenge with ebony board and the only downside to getting a raw neck is you want to buy more raw necks :icon_biggrin:

buy one....you wont be disappointed :party07:
 
I have an all-wenge neck that I love.  I have a canary neck with ebony fingerboard that I love.  As soon as I can rationalize the purchase of another neck, I'm gonna get an all pau-ferro neck, which I fully expect to love.


And if you fail to drop the extra Jackson on stainless frets, you will earn the ridicule of the assembled peanut gallery.


Happy hunting!


Bagman
 
Yep SS frets is a must  :icon_thumright:

Bagman67 said:
As soon as I can rationalize the purchase of another neck, I'm gonna get an all pau-ferro neck, which I fully expect to love.
Yep Yummie  :toothy10:

I'm thinking Bocote / Ebony next for me  :icon_biggrin:

Then a Canary
Then a Kingwood
Then a Purpleheart

Where will it end  :doh:

 
Updown said:
I'm thinking Bocote / Ebony next for me  :icon_biggrin:

Then a Canary
Then a Kingwood
Then a Purpleheart

Where will it end  :doh:

I've an urge for some Bocote as well. I do highly recommend the Kingwood. That might even make a good combination, but it may be going too far. The eye won't know what to focus on, so everybody suffers. Canary is fairly nondescript, so Kingwood works well over it. Then, Ebony is fairly nondescript so it would work well over the Bocote.
 
I have some other (maybe dumb) questions about raw necks. People are talking a lot about how good they are, do you have a fretboard in another wood or is it more common to have 1-piece, when talking about raw necks?

What's the best wood for a raw neck that would "replace" the sound for a maple neck with roseword/ebony fretboard?
 
chriswest said:
I have some other (maybe dumb) questions about raw necks. People are talking a lot about how good they are, do you have a fretboard in another wood or is it more common to have 1-piece, when talking about raw necks?

What's the best wood for a raw neck that would "replace" the sound for a maple neck with roseword/ebony fretboard?

Raw necks are almost always Warmoth Pro construction, which is a two piece design. Doing a one piece neck requires that the truss rod be put in through the back, rather than under the fretboard.
 
chriswest said:
I have some other (maybe dumb) questions about raw necks. People are talking a lot about how good they are, do you have a fretboard in another wood or is it more common to have 1-piece, when talking about raw necks?

What's the best wood for a raw neck that would "replace" the sound for a maple neck with roseword/ebony fretboard?

There's no need for them to be one-piece. It's a matter of personal preference. Of all mine, only the Ziricote is a one-piece, although the Afra neck also has an Afra fretboard, and the Rosewood neck has a Rosewood 'board. My Canary neck has a Kingwood 'board, and the rest of them are jet black Ebony 'boards, because...

ItsTheBestJerry.jpg


It's the best, Jerry! The best!

If I were replacing a Rosewood or Ebony over Maple neck and wanted similar behavior, character and appearance out of the new part, I'd be doing Ebony over Canary or Afra. Stainless frets, of course, because if it's not stainless, IT'S CRAP!

Edit: I should mention that the gold frets Warmoth installs are quite nice, too. They're nearly as hard and slippery as the stainless, but you get the gold color, which matches some hardware/finishes better. It's not a pronounced gold - it's not really even gold, it's an iron/copper alloy - I'd compare it to like a 10 carat gold. It sorta makes people do a double-take to make sure they're seeing what they think they see, then they ask anyway.

Are those gold frets?
No, they're bamboo.
Really?
Go away; you bother me.

For a $30 adder, it's a bargain.
 
line6man said:
chriswest said:
I have some other (maybe dumb) questions about raw necks. People are talking a lot about how good they are, do you have a fretboard in another wood or is it more common to have 1-piece, when talking about raw necks?

What's the best wood for a raw neck that would "replace" the sound for a maple neck with roseword/ebony fretboard?

Raw necks are almost always Warmoth Pro construction, which is a two piece design. Doing a one piece neck requires that the truss rod be put in through the back, rather than under the fretboard.
Yeah, that's true. But I mean if people use to pick another wood for the fretboard, but it seems like that is common.

Is there a gallery somewhere with only raw necks?
 
Corey P. said:
When you search the showcase under Neck Wood you can specify "All Exotic Woods."
Thanks!
So all wood that can be used as a raw neck are exotic?

Is there any exotic wood that is "allergic-friendly"? I read that the dust from wenge is toxic when sanded. I also don't like if the wood has a strong/nasty smell.
(I don't have any problems at all with more common wood such as mahogany, maple, rosewood, ebony etc)

Edit: I have checked at Warmoth website which wood that don't require a finish.
 
Depending on the peghead design, not all exotics can be used.  It has nothing to do with suitability as a neck wood, just the glue joint at the headstock for angled necks.
 
Corey P. said:
When you search the showcase under Neck Wood you can specify "All Exotic Woods."

This is usually the case, but not always. Mahogany shows up, despite needing a finish, and Walnut shows up despite being domestic.
 
Just throwing in my two cents... I only ever had maple necks on my big-brand guitars (many cheap Fender strats over the years, Ibanez JS1200, Fender American dlx strat and tele and the neck on my Gibson Robot is painted) but when I built my warmth, I got a Goncalo Alves neck unfinished.

Absolutely amazing and silky smooth. Like Perry said in some other thread... you never go back. I won't be. I actually ordered another Goncalo neck for a new strat I have planned.
 
I've always liked a clear satin finish on necks, however keep in mind that after a significant amount of playing, the satin clear-coat polishes up and becomes semi-glossy.
 
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