Telerauder Build

[DangerousR6]

Great job on the control cover, nice fit...Stainless isn't easy to work with when cutting with hand tools.. :icon_thumright:

 

[rgand]

Thanks, Doug. I can't say an angle grinder and a spindle sander are hand tools but compared to a CNC, I guess so. :icon_biggrin:

 

[rgand]

Doug made an awesome neck plate for this guitar. The brand is mine. The number reflects the brand (36) and that this is my 5th build. Although I posted it on the thread for custom neck plates, here's a photo of it.

I got the control plate back from the polisher the other day. I covered the polished side with painters' tape and finished drilling the holes from the back so as to not mess up the nice polishing job. All I had to do from the front was countersink the mounting holes.

Here it is mounted.

 

[Cagey]

Looks great! I'm surprised drilling from the hidden side worked out. Do that with wood, and you'll be sorry.

 

[Logrinn]

That looks great!

 

[rgand]

Looks great! I'm surprised drilling from the hidden side worked out. Do that with wood, and you'll be sorry.

Thanks. Yeah, but it's pretty thin compared to any wood you may drill through. Wood doesn't make spiral chips to spin around the hole and gouge up the surface. Also, I use cutting fluid to make cleaner holes and save the drill bits. Afterwards, a quick shot with a countersink to chamfer the edges of the holes and you're done.

That looks great!

Thank you. I'm looking forward to getting going on the assembly.

 

[Cagey]

See? That's why they don't let me play with metal. I'm a danger to myself and others.

 

[rgand]

See? That's why they don't let me play with metal. I'm a danger to myself and others.

:laughing11: :laughing7:

 

[Hendrix]

Stainless steel is very hard ( like you may know work from SS fret), so we usually worry about SS steel damaged drill bits, not another way around.

so I cut the Stainless steel mostly by laser cut .  as can see my video here :

[youtube]yIh10t65Yqk[/youtube]

 

[rgand]

Cool video, Hendrix. I don't have enough need to go for a laser cutter but they're sure nice. I just grind things out the hard way and drill with a good cutting fluid. Even with the surface protected, I had to take the plate back to the polisher to get the flaws out again after the holes were drilled.

 

[DangerousR6]

Meh, lasers are for girls... :icon_biggrin:

 

[Cagey]

Not all of them. My 2nd wife used to work for an industrial laser company that made units like what Hendrix showed in his video. Focus 700W of laser down tight enough, it can do a helluva lotta damage in a hurry  :laughing7:

 

[DangerousR6]

Not all of them. My 2nd wife used to work for an industrial laser company that made units like what Hendrix showed in his video. Focus 700W of laser down tight enough, it can do a helluva lotta damage in a hurry  :laughing7:

I know, just being facetious... :icon_biggrin:

 

[rgand]

In preparation for wiring, I pre-assembled pickups and selector switch to make sure everything fits before committing anything. I made two discoveries.

1. The switch route is deep enough for an Oak Grigsby switch. That makes it easier to wire since I have one on hand and diagrams for what I want to do.

2. The bridge route isn't quite deep enough by about an eighth of an inch and the neck route is a barely. The next step is to deepen those. I'll probably go a quarter inch or more to make ample room for wires to pass underneath.

Since I already have a finish on the body, I have to protect that when I use the router. Two choices come to mind. Frisket film or painters tape. Which does the best job of protecting the finish so I can run the router over it without messing things up? I'm leaning toward the painters tape. I have both. Any input here is welcome.

You sure learn a lot when you route a body the first time.  :laughing7:

 

[Cagey]

I would use the tape. The bottoms/edges of routers aren't always the friendliest things (be sure it's clean), and frisket film is kinda thin.

 

[Cagey]

While I still have it in mind, something that comes in handy every once in a while around the shop is nylon drawer slide tape. I use it mostly to keep the bottom of my computer mice friction free, but it works on tools, too. A bit of that on the bottom of the router will keep it from being abrasive if it's aged to the point where that plate is getting a bit scratched up.

 

[rgand]

Thanks, Kevin. I'll go with the tape, then. The face of my small router is fairly smooth but it's been around for years. I can always draw file and tape that, too, if there are any flaws. Thanks for alerting me to that possibility.

 

[Hendrix]

I have done some hand cut and polish on metal on school days when machines not available.

it not too hard but just very fussiest processes. I have the patience to do it by hand on school days when I have more time available.

a inly I have done

the most difficult part is like  stratamania talk about here, if skipped a couple of grits, when you finally go to end mirror polishing, find few of hairline sanding marks just can't get it away on mirror looks, need to painfully got back again sanding again reducing grits on sandpaper steps by step again.

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=28884.msg409777#msg409777

 

[rgand]

That's nice hand work, Hendrix.  :icon_thumright:

 

[DangerousR6]

I have done some hand cut and polish on metal on school days when machines not available.

it not too hard but just very fussiest processes. I have the patience to do it by hand on school days when I have more time available.

a inly I have done

the most difficult part is like  stratamania talk about here, if skipped a couple of grits, when you finally go to end mirror polishing, find few of hairline sanding marks just can't get it away on mirror looks, need to painfully got back again sanding again reducing grits on sandpaper steps by step again.

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=28884.msg409777#msg409777

Nice work, polishing is a very tedious process, and skipping steps usually ends in bad results. Depending on the material you can get by with skipping grits, but it just doubles the work in the end.