Telerauder Build

[rgand]

Thanks, those look like they're made well, unlike the marginal one I got. I'm still considering one of the right angle attachments and just cut it carefully. I guess I'll have to decide soon, since the pickguard needs to be the next step.

 

[stratamania]

I guess you could try out more tests on scrap and then if needed invest in more tools.

 

[rgand]

Yes, tests. I have plenty of pickguard material. I'll move forward once I have it figured out, of course.

 

[rgand]

I figured out how to cut a decent slot for the switch. I used a right angle adapter and a 3/32" thick cutting wheel and cleaned it up with a small flat file. It wasn't a really difficult cut so that did fine. BUT! While doing that, I realized I had made the pickup route too big. :tard:

Well, that pickguard became a test piece and I installed the pickup into it anyway and drilled holes for the mounting screws. With everything mounted in the guard, I could then put it on the body to make sure everything will work without any issues. One pickguard hole ended up on the edge of the switch cavity (just below the lower switch mounting screw) so I'll need to eliminate that one or glue a block into the hole to provide something to screw into. Now I can go ahead and make the final piece. Another day, since I'm running out of time today.

 

[Cagey]

Time does have a way of getting away from you. I started shaving a sticking door about 3 hours ago and I'm still goofing around with it.

 

[rgand]

Yeah, time does pass quickly. Especially when each step is custom work with a steep learning curve. At least the finished PG should go quicker.

 

[rgand]

I screwed the pickguard pattern to a new piece of MDF and shimmed the pickup cutout to the proper size.

After the new pickguard was routed, I cut the switch slot as before with the Dremel right angle attachment then finished it up with a small flat file.

Then I put the pickup and switch in to make sure everything fits in the routes properly. Next, I'll need to make the control plate.

 

[Cagey]

That came out well. I would have been apprehensive about cutting the slot that way.

 

[rgand]

Thanks, Kevin. I was a little apprehensive on the first one but on the repeat, I just drilled the holes and ran the Dremel down through the slot in the old one to get it started. The right angle attachment gives good control of the blade because it just wants to pull away from you, not head off to the side.

Next time I have to cut one, I'll clamp something to it to act as a guide both for the angle across the pickguard and so the bit doesn't wander at all. New cutting blades are just big enough in diameter to go straight down through. Even if it canted slightly, a file can straighten the sides nicely.

 

[Cagey]

I can see where that right angle attachment would be more stable. I have one of these flex shafts attachments...

...which gets the motor out of the way so you can get closer to a 90 degree cut, but it wants to pull with the rotation of the disk so keeping a straight line is difficult.

 

[rgand]

Perhaps they offer a right angle attachment for your flex shaft attachment.

 

[Cagey]

I'm not sure how it would attach. There's no stationary threaded end on it like there is on the motor.

 

[stratamania]

I have one of those Flex shafts too for the Dremel, but to do a pickguard slot I think I would be inclined to make a little jig and use the Dremel with the Stew Mac Precision router base that I have.

 

[Cagey]

I have the router base as well. Bought it originally to cut a switch slot in a body, but it's a carved-top body so I need to fab up some kind of jig. Been putting it off for a long time now - I'm terrified of destroying the finish.

 

[dmraco]

Routers are the most useful and terrifying tools....they scare me to death.  I have an anxiety attack everything I put one to a body.

I almost pulled the trigger on a Tele body, but wanted a p90 in the neck.  The thought of doing it made me pass on the body.

 

[Cagey]

You can certainly do one helluva lotta damage in a hurry, and it's often unrepairable. I'm pretty confident in my use of the things, although it does raise my anxiety level. But, that's ok. It just makes me hyper-careful about what I'm doing. Plus, the payback is great. Lotta stuff you can really only do with a router.

 

[stratamania]

That is part of the pay of working with tools I think.

At times you do have to be careful and so forth but when you get a good result it makes the stagefright of using the tool and doing the job worthwhile.

 

[rgand]

I have the jitters on some new process but once I figure it out, that subsides. With a pickguard, I figure the worst scenario is you end up buying another piece of material and doing another one. I guess for a body, the worst case scenario involves blocks of wood, glue, automotive filler and 25 coats of solid and clear finishes.  :icon_biggrin:

 

[rgand]

I have the router base as well. Bought it originally to cut a switch slot in a body, but it's a carved-top body so I need to fab up some kind of jig. Been putting it off for a long time now - I'm terrified of destroying the finish.

You could always drill a hole for the center and carefully work your way out both ways with Swiss files. It would take some serious time but once you got the slot long enough to take a flat file, it would go quickly after that.

 

[rgand]

Well, a bit more progress. I got some 12 ga stainless and cut out the control plate. 12 ga stainless is .1046" thick and the pickguard material measures .0980" so after the polishing, they should be about the same thickness.

Next I took my template and drilled three 3/16" holes to locate the center for the jack and pots. I marked the Frisket film through the holes to make sure they would fall in the control route properly.

I then drilled the holes a couple sizes under what the controls will need and dropped the plate off at the polishers to get polished. When I get it back, I'll finish drilling the plate.

Doug tells me that the neck plate is in the mail. I'm looking forward to seeing it. The neck is already fitted with staggered, locking tuners with all the leveling and such done. Wiring and assembly will start after the control plate is completed.