Suggestions and Comments for new bass, Gecko 6 project!

Gokhan91

New member
Messages
2
Hi guys I'm planning to build a new Gecko 6 but I decided to tell you about my project and get your opinions first.

The woods which I choose is:
Black Korina Body, Quilt Maple Top
Birdseye Maple Neck, Ebony Fingeboard

Electronics:
Nordstrand Pickups (not decided the model yet but they will be humbuckers) (single-dual switch to seperate coils)
Piezo Pickup at the bridge
John East 4-knob deluxe preamp

Bridge:
Hipshot Triple Lock Down Individual String Bass Bridges

I know I'm going to get a good sound but I don't know what will it sound like. Can you help me? :)
Now I want some comments for my wood selections and some suggestions for piezo pickup.

Gokhan



 

SkuttleFunk

Senior member
Messages
1,156
I do have a few questions/comments for you on this:

1) what are you going to use for the piezo in the bridge, a ghost equipped Hipshot or something else?

2) what buffer/pre-amp will you use for the piezo? I would recommend a Cafe Walter pre/buffer due to its elegant simplicity, ease of installation, and sonic transparency

3) how do you intend to incorporate the piezo - a dedicated output jack or into the John East pre?

4) if blended into the John East, how do you plan to mix the two magnetic pickups (Nordstrands of some flavor) with the piezo input? note that the John East is designed for two inputs (your magnetic pickups) but does not have standard the ability to accept a third input source

5) you do understand that the passive mode on a JE is really just a safety net in case your batteries die on you ... it is definitely not the best solution if you plan to work a significant amount of studio sessions where you will need the full flexibility of a fully functional passive tone control


also note that you may need to special order your Nordstrands to match the bridge spacing on the Gecko. Nordies are designed for an 18mm spacing on 6-string basses. if your bridge spacing is similar to what Wylee has on his 6-string, you'll need custom 17mm spacing in EMG covers. Nothing difficult for them to do, just not something they have in stock

I can help you with the Nordies if you can't find a source locally

all the best,

R
 

Gokhan91

New member
Messages
2
I don't really know about piezo pickups i want it only for tonal variety. I plan to ask it to my luthier. Also the pickup holes will not be a problem for luthier.

What do you think about the woods?
 

NonsenseTele

Senior member
Messages
8,256
Gokhan91 said:
What do you think about the woods?

I'm completely biased (by now at least) with raw exotic woods... And always want something less bright than Maple...
But I'm no bass player and have not big idea how things work there...
 

SkuttleFunk

Senior member
Messages
1,156
Gokhan91 said:
I don't really know about piezo pickups i want it only for tonal variety. I plan to ask it to my luthier. Also the pickup holes will not be a problem for luthier.

OK. I do suggest that you work with a luthier who has experience with bass piezos. I know from personal experience that there is a significant amount to learn to "get it right" and not simply have a bass with functional piezos.

What do you think about the woods?

my thoughts on woods would be to make your choices first on their structural stability needs for where you are applying them (i.e. avoid using highly figured or non-stiff woods for your neck shaft, and also in choosing to bond woods together that have similar expansion/stiffness properties) Secondly consider the balance factor of what you'll be building so you can avoid a bass that has a headstock which always wants to rest on the floor. Once you have these two things accounted for then you will have properly narrowed your wood choice decisions so that you can choose what appeals to your eyes from this limited group.

if you're wanting to talk woods and tone and how they relate in a bass ... I suggest you instead focus on your pickups, electronics, playing technique, and how to properly set-up your bass. This is <98% of your tone (as fed to an amp or mixing console) right there. Far too many people allow themselves to get wrapped into making choices that obviously impact less than 2% of the instrument's tonality. Do all you can to keep from finding yourself caught up into this and you'll do well with your build

all the best,

R
 

Wyliee

Senior member
Messages
1,931
Gokhan91 said:
Hi guys I'm planning to build a new Gecko 6 but I decided to tell you about my project and get your opinions first.

....

I know I'm going to get a good sound but I don't know what will it sound like. Can you help me? :)
Now I want some comments for my wood selections and some suggestions for piezo pickup.

Do you know what sort of sound you are after?  If not, how will you know if the project is sucessfull or not?  Why did you select these components?  Reputation or you've heard and or played them before?  Not trying to be harsh, but it always worries me when someone lays out a build list and doesn't have a planned outcome.  How about taking a step back and telling us more about what you play, where, background, etc....

FYI, the radius on the single saddle bridge does not match the Gecko fingerboard radius.  You'll have to shim the middle saddles and rout for them yourself.  Warmoth does not rout for them on the Gecko.

As Skuttle mentioned, I've got a 17mm bridge on my Gecko 6 build. (16.5mm is normal) I've modified my neck by bringing the nut width in a bit and the strings are darn close to the edge of the fingerboard.  If you go with a stock Gecko neck, you may well have the strings hanging over the edge.

Frankly, I'd skip the piezo.  If you want more of an upright sound, try changing you plucking hand position.  Less cost and less electronics work.

Just my $0.02
 
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