Stripping Finish

[Tonar8352]

I’m refinishing a Fender Strat neck and turning it in to a Jazzmaster neck so I thought I’d show you the steps and give a few hints if you every have to do it.  Before I even started I did a test spot down at the base of the neck to make sure my remover would take off the finish.  Fortunately for me the finish popped right off.  I used Jasco Paint and Epoxy Remover.

The trick is to brush the remover on real thick in one direction and leave it alone until the finish lifts.  The remover works as it creates a surface film and then it burns the finish off.  If you keep brushing it around after it forms the film it looses its effectiveness.  

Here is how it bubbles the finish including the label.

I use a hard plastic squeegee to remove the lifted finish.  Do not use this stuff with out protective gloves and glasses on.  If you get it on your skin you will be doing a little dance because it is very caustic. I do use a putty knife to scrape any small chips that are still on the wood.

After all the finish is removes the big trick is to wash the wood with a rag soaked in acetone.  It cleans the wood and removes all surface residue.  Here is the headstock after the wash.  It is really clean enough at this point to start finishing but I want to do some light sanding to re-profile the headstock a little.  

Here it is ready to vintage tint and shoot.  Looks great.

 

[blue313]

Nice to see how clean that came off with something I can get at a hardware store!  How good is that stuff on imports or DIY rattlecan jobs?

 

[Tonar8352]

You should be able to get it at the hardware store.  Make sure it is the Paint and Epoxy remover which is stronger than the regular paint remover.  The only way to tell if it will work on a particular finish is to do a test. 

 

[rockskate4x]

wish I had THAT for my last frankenpartsocaster project... It's like the paint was never there!!!

 

[Keyser Soze]

Most excellent post. 

Methylene chloride is the active ingredient in that, and most solvent based stripper products.  The more MC the better it works.  I like the gel type products as they stick to curves and contours better.  You are also spot on about not over working the stuff - goop it on and leave it alone.  I like to use a synthetic scuffy pad to break up the surface of the original finish, the rougher texture allows the stripper to adhere better and IMO helps it work a little faster.

The only downside is, as you noted, the stuff is mondo caustic - gloves are an absolute must.

 

[jackthehack]

I bought a used Koa VIP with a Tung Oil finish that will need to be stripped; any idea if that product will lift Tung Oil?

 

[line6man]

It sort of looks like the neck was molting like a snake.  :kewlpics:

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

That stuff is great.  I 've used a similar product before.  After using that, I never sand for paint or finish removal anymore.  I leave the sanding for grain leveling and after grain filling.

 

[Tonar8352]

Jack,
I have no experience with stripping tung oil so I would just suggest you do a test.  I would think that it would have no problems taking it off.

PS It must be thawing out your way by now and your getting in the mood to get busy finishing. 

 

[NonsenseTele]

Looks damn nice job :evil4:

 

[jay4321]

That actually looks fun.

I assume that's a poly finish you took off?

 

[kboman]

The only downside is, as you noted, the stuff is mondo caustic - gloves are an absolute must.

And eye protection. Believe me, I'm an optometrist - getting hit by something caustic is the absolute worst that can ever happen to an eye short of molten rock or staring into a nuclear blast.

But functionally this stuff looks great! Very interesting post as always.

 

[Rick]

Is it like the stuff for stripping paint off metal?  Cause one winter I stripped the paint off my bicycle and by the time I was done I was drooling.  If it is, also do it in a well ventalated area. :tard: 

 

[Keyser Soze]

Rick,  quite likely it is the same active ingredient (methylene chloride) - the stuff has a distinct, but not overwhelming, odor.  It is rather volatile and really should not be used in an unventilated space, or for extended periods without a respirator.  In my experience the liquid products seem to be worse than the gels at putting out vapors.  Unfortunately the stuff is not compatible with water so all MC products are mixtures of organic solvents.

 

[bpmorton777]

been using this same product for the last couple of weekends stripping an old china cabinet. +1 to eye goggles/face shield got a splash on my arm and man did it burn. :evil4:

Brian

 

[jay4321]

I have a MIM all-maple neck I might refinish, would need to strip off a satin poly finish to do so. Is it safe for the black fretboard dots?

 

[rockskate4x]

fretboard dots are inlays and should not be effected by stripper any more than the wood is effected.

 

[briny001]

I used the Jasco Paint Stripper on my all maple Fender Strat neck, and YES, IT DID TAKE OFF THE BLACK INLAYS!  Be careful.  Don't know what this particular neck's inlays were made of,  but they are no more...

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I've had some black side dots disintegrate from the stuff.

 

[Rick]

maybe put a piece of tape over the dots?