Stain on maple, impact on pearloid inlay border

[Rick]

Need some staining advice.  I was wondering about a maple neck, if you stain it with something like keda water based stain, if the wood border area around a inlay will absorb the stain more intensely than areas away from the inlay.

I'm thinking about a bird's eye maple neck with pearloid block inlays; the maple stained amber gold, then the neck finished in tru-oil. 

If you know of any issues, let me know.
Thanks

 

[Rick]

Also, are there any tricks for staining a maple fretboard?  Or is staining between the frets a PITA and you're better off with rosewood?

 

[Rick]

Or maybe boiled linseed oil followed by tru oil?

 

[ByteFrenzy]

Or maybe boiled linseed oil followed by tru oil?

That's my personal favorite. For the first coat I also warm the linseed oil to something in the 'comfy bath tub temperature' range before applying, which (at least I think it does) makes it penetrate slightly deeper and makes the grain pop out a bit more.

 

[Rick]

If I go the blo route I won't have to worry about stain bleed , which i don't know would be an issue.  Probably use 3 coats of blo, which should pop the birdseyes, then use the tru oil.  Makes sense?

 

[fdesalvo]

If you go that route, you’ve really got to let the BLO cure fully. Tru-oil will dry hard and clear, so there may be some interaction between the two in that case.  This is assuming there are no driers in your BLO.

 

[ByteFrenzy]

I have to mention that I add a drying agent to the second and third (which is the maximum I do) coat of BLO. The first one takes an eternity to cure but the following ones take even longer without the drier. I use my nose to figure out the curing time. If it still smells like Linseed or Tru-Oil, things are still evaporating out of there and it's not fully cured yet.