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Singlecut G4 Bass...

dmraco

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Here are some photos of my work in progress.  The plan is a silver to candy red burst.  I am using all re-ranch products for the 1st time.  Except for the final nitro clear.  I have a few cans of Stewmac nitro left from a previous job.

BTW...this is my 1ST painted finish.  Everything else has been dyes and tints....

Naked..... :laughing7:
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white primer
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It may be a while for some updates.  It is SOOOOO HUMID here.  I thought I wuold give the paint a try.  It is going on like a powder.  I am going to have to sand and re-shoot. 

It is either the humidity or this paint stinks.  I think it is the humidity.  Re-Ranch has a pretty good rep.
 
Humidity won't make it flash off too fast, but heat will. Usually, one would add retarder to it, but you don't have that option with aerosol cans. Maybe early morning or later in the evening would be a better time? I know it's been hotter than hell around here lately, so I haven't even tried anything.
 
It is hot too.  I started at 7AM....80 degrees already.  I am going to wait until next week when it is cooler.
 
I wish I had some photos to post...but I am starting over.  Bursting with paint/candy is a PIA!!!! :help:

I am sanding and re-shooting starting withthe silver.  AHHHHHHH
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shot some paint and nitro this morning.  Going to stick with silver.  My son really liked it.  The Candy red was not working out.  Here is neck with paint and some amber on back.

I am going to let these 1st coats cure, level sand with 3000 any imperfections and go hard core withthe nitro this weekend.  I find putting 4-5 coat on, drying and sanding with 3000 helps remove and rought areas or impurities that may have been in the finish.  I will then shot more nitro after that.  I started this after running out of nitro 1/2 thru a build one time.

The silver is a Honda color...alibaster silver.
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Nice job! Looks good!

I don't know if leveling with 3000 grit is such a great idea if you're going to apply more finish, though. 3000 is a polishing grit. I'm not sure it will do any leveling on a fresh shoot, and it's possible you'd run into adhesion issues. I'd use 320 until the last coat, then go through a couple stages to 1500 (or higher) before buffing it. But, I don't know. I've never used that fine an abrasive between coatings. But, Tonar and others say 2000 grit will put too fine a surface even on raw wood to take stain, let alone a finish.
 
Cagey said:
Nice job! Looks good!

I don't know if leveling with 3000 grit is such a great idea if you're going to apply more finish, though. 3000 is a polishing grit. I'm not sure it will do any leveling on a fresh shoot, and it's possible you'd run into adhesion issues. I'd use 320 until the last coat, then go through a couple stages to 1500 (or higher) before buffing it. But, I don't know. I've never used that fine an abrasive between coatings. But, Tonar and others say 2000 grit will put too fine a surface even on raw wood to take stain, let alone a finish.

I thought the same too.  But doesn't nitro MELT into itself?  I onlt go over real lightly to knock off high spots.

When I shoot poly, I use 320.
 
Yes, but not so much once it's completely cured, and anything less than that is just going to load up the finer papers immediately. You'll be working your ass off and not getting anything done.

I know 320 sounds like something out of a rock quarry compared to 3000, but really, that's plenty fine for between coats. It'll knock off the orange peel like you want. After your last coat, then you wait the 2 or 3 weeks and start gradually working your way up to the higher grits. The surface will be hard enough to respond to the finer cuts.
 
no photos but a small update.  I ordered a custom water slide, and my son wants the W Turtle on the back of the headstock.  PU is a Duncan Music Man with Alnico mags, three band EQ with slap switch.  I will also add a series/parallel/single switch.

I am going away for a few days and this should gave the nitro some time to cure.

Going with Black hardware (GOTOH)
 
some photos of the headstock.  Going to sand a little and re-coat to get the line from showing, if I can.  It is really smooth.  Not sure it will ever completely go away.  Any experience here?

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some props to WARMOTH on the back
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My curiousity is gettiing the best of me, how's this project progressing?  Now that short scale LP necks are available, the urge to get one of these bodies is becoming harder to resist.
 
here are some photos...looks great, plays great...I only wish it sounded great.  I need to work out some bugs in the electronics.
it is 30 scale so I took a photos next to my sons LP for reference.

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Wow! That looks like the kind of bass I'd want to play. Nice job!

Also, nice storage cabinet. Not often you see something like that.
 
That is sweet looking!  That body style definitely just made it to the top of the list for the next build.
 
DMRACO said:
Cagey said:
Also, nice storage cabinet. Not often you see something like that.

Thanks.  I made that too...with some help from my father in law.

No kidding? That's a fine piece. I'm envious. I've seen similar cabinets in ads in the back of Vintage Guitar Magazine, and they typically go for around $5K so I've pretty much ruled out ever having one.
 
Cagey said:
DMRACO said:
Cagey said:
Also, nice storage cabinet. Not often you see something like that.

Thanks.  I made that too...with some help from my father in law.

No kidding? That's a fine piece. I'm envious. I've seen similar cabinets in ads in the back of Vintage Guitar Magazine, and they typically go for around $5K so I've pretty much ruled out ever having one.

Yes.  I saw one at the guitar show and gave me the inspiration.  I took home their literature and made some drawings.  Cost me about $200 in wood.  I will saw this DOES NOT have the humidification systems those other ones have, but some well placed cigar humidifiers work well.
 
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