I always find that kind of thing interesting. I never knew the reference you were talking about. The only one I know was the ice cram. Neapolitan was generally what people from Naples were called. Neapolitan ice cream was popular in france and was made in shops run by italians hence the Neapolitan ice cream. Basically Italian Ice Cream.
Silver tele
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Yeah, I thought about doing that. I gave it a shot and I was not happy with how it looked. I just finished stripping it back down to the primer and putting the first coat on. In the end I decided it was worth starting over and having it look exactly how I wanted it than to compromise a little and save time. In the picture you can see it is not perfect, but in person it was not even that good. The tape I used made me have to do all sorts of crazy things to keep it from pulling up the paint. It left small gouges and ridges everywhere.jay4321 said:
Here's my 2 cents...........Back when I used to paint cars and when masking tape was beige, if it was too sticky you just rubbed it on your jeans. Worked like a charm. The other thing is when you peel the tape fold it all the way back on itself and pull it back that way. Lastly you might consider shooting your base coat silver, shoot clear over that. That will let you do 2 things. The first is if you mess up you can sand back to the clear and not the base but it would also give you a good surface to scuff up to help your paint stick without affecting your metallic paint. Either way good luck. It's a great concept. :guitarplayer2:
Death by Uberschall
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That's a tele Rick Nielsen (Cheap trick) would be proud to rock out on!! :hello2:
I never thought of the jeans thing. I saw this after I already started so I just bought some blue tape. The clear over the first coat of silver would have been a really good idea as well. The blue tape does not seem to pull up the paint like the green did so so far so good. I am almost done with the paint (for the second time :icon_tonguepabloman said:
so I will post pictures when I am done. Then all I have left to do is the clear coat.On that note. Does anyone know about how much clear coat I should put down? I have 1 full can of Deft but will I need to put more on than that? How many will I need do you think?
Danuda said:I never thought of the jeans thing. I saw this after I already started so I just bought some blue tape. The clear over the first coat of silver would have been a really good idea as well. The blue tape does not seem to pull up the paint like the green did so so far so good. I am almost done with the paint (for the second time :icon_tonguepabloman said:
On that note. Does anyone know about how much clear coat I should put down? I have 1 full can of Deft but will I need to put more on than that? How many will I need do you think?
I would err on the side of too much clear, just to be as sure as possible that there won't be any sand-throughs. I don't recall at the moment what type of paint you're using, but i usually go for 1.5 to 2 cans of clear when i spray guitars (but i have only used nitro, so i don't know how/if it would be different for other paint types). My philosophy is that, if it's too much paint, you can always sand more off. But too little paint and you're going to sand through and mess up the color coats, and with your metallic colors that would be especially :doh:-inducing.
Cagey
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Danuda said:The blue tape does not seem to pull up the paint like the green did so so far so good. I am almost done with the paint (for the second time :icon_tongue
I wrote a pile of process monitoring software for a high-end "tape" manufacturer some years back, and have since forgotten more about "tape" than most people would ever want to know. But, I do remember a few things.
For one, they get sorta pissed if you call it "tape". It's not. It's a "coated film", and the film can come in a wide variety of forms, as can the adhesives they coat them with. I know, it's silly, but that's the industry. Same way if you talk to anyone from GE's Lamp division, or Phillips, or Ozram. There are no such things as "light bulbs". They're lamps, you silly goose! <grin>
More to the point, if you asked them for "masking tape", they'd ask what you're masking and what you're masking against before they'd recommend anything. Most people call paper tape "masking tape", and it may even be labelled that way, but there's no clue on the package as to it's intended use. Masking tape for painting purposes shouldn't allow any bleed underneath it, and it shouldn't have any residual VOCs such as toluene in the adhesive that could dissolve or otherwise affect the substrate. Finally, it should release easily even after some time has passed.
What they're selling now as painter's masking tape is colored blue to differentiate it from adhesive paper tape, because the market has been so corrupted. Theoretically, you should be able to trust that stuff to be suitable for effectively masking painted surfaces, as opposed to the other stuff where all bets are off. Not that there's no such thing as proper beige paper masking tape, but it has become too hard to be sure that's what you're buying and if you're wrong, you can end up with poor or even destructive results.
Danuda said:
As has been mentioned, More's law applies: Some is good, More's better. Too much is just right <grin>
Be aware that there's a lot less coating material in the can than it seems. For one, there's a helluva lotta propellant, and B, there's a lotta reducer. In what looks like a 22oz can, there's probably only 2 or 3 ounces of actual solids. About half or more of that is going to be overspray that never touches what you're trying to coat. So, buy more than you need. Better to have too much and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
More to the point, if you asked them for "masking tape", they'd ask what you're masking and what you're masking against before they'd recommend anything. Most people call paper tape "masking tape", and it may even be labelled that way, but there's no clue on the package as to it's intended use. Masking tape for painting purposes shouldn't allow any bleed underneath it, and it shouldn't have any residual VOCs such as toluene in the adhesive that could dissolve or otherwise affect the substrate. Finally, it should release easily even after some time has passed.
What they're selling now as painter's masking tape is colored blue to differentiate it from adhesive paper tape, because the market has been so corrupted. Theoretically, you should be able to trust that stuff to be suitable for effectively masking painted surfaces, as opposed to the other stuff where all bets are off. Not that there's no such thing as proper beige paper masking tape, but it has become too hard to be sure that's what you're buying and if you're wrong, you can end up with poor or even destructive results.
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Actually the tape is blue to differentiate it's application and performance. It's not masking tape because it's blue. It's blue because it behaves differently than beige or green. I've never noticed this masking tape conspiracy. It's pretty straight forward :dontknow: If you are using some paper adhesive tape which is more for labeling and light packaging then you probably shouldn't be painting anyway. FWIW I recall reading on the package(WTF??? :dontknow that the 3M blue tape was not recommended for use with lacquer. Can't remember if it was nitro or all lacquers. Haven't looked since. I have used it with great results with lacquer, never tried it with nitro though. 
ccasion14:
What they're selling now as painter's masking tape is colored blue to differentiate it from adhesive paper tape, because the market has been so corrupted. Theoretically, you should be able to trust that stuff to be suitable for effectively masking painted surfaces, as opposed to the other stuff where all bets are off. Not that there's no such thing as proper beige paper masking tape, but it has become too hard to be sure that's what you're buying and if you're wrong, you can end up with poor or even destructive results.
[/quote]
Actually the tape is blue to differentiate it's application and performance. It's not masking tape because it's blue. It's blue because it behaves differently than beige or green. I've never noticed this masking tape conspiracy. It's pretty straight forward :dontknow: If you are using some paper adhesive tape which is more for labeling and light packaging then you probably shouldn't be painting anyway. FWIW I recall reading on the package(WTF??? :dontknow
that the 3M blue tape was not recommended for use with lacquer. Can't remember if it was nitro or all lacquers. Haven't looked since. I have used it with great results with lacquer, never tried it with nitro though. ccasion14:
Cagey
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pabloman said:Actually the tape is blue to differentiate it's application and performance. It's not masking tape because it's blue. It's blue because it behaves differently than beige or green. I've never noticed this masking tape conspiracy. It's pretty straight forward :dontknow: If you are using some paper adhesive tape which is more for labeling and light packaging then you probably shouldn't be painting anyway. FWIW I recall reading on the package(WTF??? :dontknow
Exactly. Blue means it's actually "masking tape", as opposed to adhesive paper tape. Or, at least that's what it's supposed to mean. It has low adhesive properties, but still seals against wicking and won't tear off the substrate or adversely affect its surface. That's why they came up with it - many beige adhesive paper tapes are not good for paint masking any more, as there are a lot of varieties of it. Some it is packing tape, as you mentioned, some of it is just cheap general-purpose tape, some of it is for marking, on and on. If you don't know any better, they all look the same.
But, if you get a roll that isn't designed for painting purposes, it may have a gum tack that was dissolved with toluene prior to application, and if you stick it to something that reacts to that solvent, you're going to ruin your finish. They "dry" the stuff prior to rolling it up, but there's still some of that solvent left in the gum and it'll make you sorry if you aren't aware of it.
That's how I got involved with it in the first place. The areas where they do the "drying" are considered "explosive" because the solvents are so volatile, so they have to be heavily monitored and controlled. The films don't actually get dried, per se, they just pull off the bulk of the solvent and try to recycle or otherwise capture the stuff so it doesn't end up out in the environment and we don't end up with three-headed toads and two-fingered babies. So, you throw a bunch of high-priced sensors and computers at it, tie them into the control systems, and spin up some monster rolls of coated film.
This is also why some manufacturers leave the US. The cost of doing such things is prohibitively high. Making coated films isn't a labor-intensive process; it's necessarily highly automated. So, the cost of unions and American wages isn't as much an issue as it is in some industries. But, we're not allowed to poison people, so you have to take heroic measures to prevent that. On the other hand, Mexico couldn't care less if you pour toluene, MEK, acetone, etc. right into the local river, let alone into the ground where it can affect the aquifer. So, running a plant like that is one helluva lot less expensive there.
Well I finished the paint for the second time around. It came out much better. I now have all the tape pulled off and I am getting ready to start the clear coats.
Here is the body up close.
A look at the edge between the black and the top.
Just for kicks I set the neck on top to see what it would look like. The lighting is poor but you can get the idea. That and it is upside down. I am too lazy to change it so everyone will have to stand on their heads. :laughing8:
All in all I am very happy with it. I am glad I started over becuase it looks awesome.
My biggest issue now is trying to find neck screws. They are the only thing I forgot on my order. I have checked about 3 places and everyone only has 1 1/2" or 2" stainless #8 screws. No one seems to stock 1-3/4". :icon_scratch: It sucks because I don't feel like paying $6.00 in shipping for $2 worth of screws.
Here is the body up close.
A look at the edge between the black and the top.
Just for kicks I set the neck on top to see what it would look like. The lighting is poor but you can get the idea. That and it is upside down. I am too lazy to change it so everyone will have to stand on their heads. :laughing8:
All in all I am very happy with it. I am glad I started over becuase it looks awesome.
My biggest issue now is trying to find neck screws. They are the only thing I forgot on my order. I have checked about 3 places and everyone only has 1 1/2" or 2" stainless #8 screws. No one seems to stock 1-3/4". :icon_scratch: It sucks because I don't feel like paying $6.00 in shipping for $2 worth of screws.
bagman67
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Max said:
Max,
Please to be explaining what is the "whitebison?" No speaka the English nicht so gut.
I will be thanking you very much in deep gratitude to you and your ancestors and progeny.
Also, that silver guitar is exceedingly cool. I am somewhat astonished by your quick work, Danuda. Well done.
Bagman
bagman67 said:
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=10763.0
I will inform the progeny of your debt when the time is right.
DangerousR6
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Very cool indeed....I like it.. :icon_thumright:
