Showcase Strat - Minor Scratches

[SixString]

Hey guys, first post here but have been reading for months.  I was hoping my first post would be my completed build, but unfortunately I have to ask a question...

I just got my showcase body yesterday which is a black strat with a gloss finish.  It looks and feels great and all the specs are correct, however after looking at it under fluorescent lighting I can see lots of minor scratches/swirl marks in the finish (I'm assuming it's a poly finish).  I have to admit that I was pretty surprised to see a less than perfect finish after reading so many great reviews from people here and their showcase bodies.  In most lighting it's not noticeable so it's really just me being Type A (I'm sure many more scratches are to come from everyday use anyway).

Has anyone else experienced this?  Any advice?

PS - I did contact Warmoth and am waiting to here back, but I figured I post as well for extra input.

Cheers-

 

[JimBeed]

Black is THE most difficult finish to get completely perfect, least so ive heard from a great deal of people.

Im sure if i had looked at my transparent purple body under a fluorescent(uv?) light i would have found a few minor scratches and stuff.
But under normal light its perfect.

Id say dont worry about it if its only under a cetain type of light, and im guessing this was up close and personal to the light?
The only other times you will encounter the same lighting im sure will be when people are more listening to playing than to if the body is completely perfect,
which im guessing wouldn't even show properly with a far away fluorescent light

 

[line6man]

Gloss black is pretty much the most unforgiving finish. Even if Warmoth got it perfect, you would scratch it up yourself in no time.  Add to that the constant cleaning to keep it free of fingerprints and dust/dirt.
I wouldn't worry about it. It goes with the territory when you have a black guitar.

 

[SixString]

Yes, I totally agree with black being extremely difficult!  I'm currently refinishing an old junker strat that I attempted to do in black/gloss, but have since restarted (after much time & energy) with another finish because I just could not get it to look right (it's also my first refinish).  But that's why I actually ordered this body from Warmoth. 

No worries then I guess.  In the end, it's all about the sound anyway....

 

[stubhead]

If you want to go deeply OCD - which is perfectly fine, here, in fact it's one way of knowing YOU'RE ON THE TEAM....


umm, you could ask Warmoth what's the finest degree of finishing they get to - 4000 grit? 6000? And then up the ante with some Micro-Mark 12,000 grit Ultra-Microno-Mongo superfine... or you could teach the dog to chew on it, and tell bar stories about fighting off mutant airborne piranhas with your ax while on a secret Amazon mission to get "THE" fingerboard... but that would be OCD, "wooden" it? ???

 

[spauldingrules]

A follow up question - is white the easiest color to get a good finish on?  Or is it somewhere in the middle?

 

[llmtelecaster]

The first thing I do when I get a body or neck from Warmoth is take a tiny screwdriver and make a few superficial scratches on the back just to get it out of the way. Otherwise I'll be tempted to NOT play it so I don't scratch it up.

 

[SixString]

The first thing I do when I get a body or neck from Warmoth is take a tiny screwdriver and make a few superficial scratches on the back just to get it out of the way. Otherwise I'll be tempted to NOT play it so I don't scratch it up.

HA HA HA!!

 

[NovasScootYa]

It sounds like you really have to look hard to notice the imperfections. However dealing with imperfections such as you described is simply a part of building/assembling most any instrument. Your larger problem is drilling holes and setting up the painted body without making a mess of it. Actually, the correct way to build an instrument is to set it up unfinished and get all the bugs out, tear it down and then paint it. Assembly will be a breeze with less chance of mishaps and the results are a clean finished product ready to play.  This is the process used for many concours auto and motorcycle restorations, etc. OCC uses this build method on all their bikes.
Black is one big pain to keep perfect. I have a Japanese Fuji-Gen LP made by History which has a flawless mirror deep black lacquer finish and it's a royal pain protecting it on rare ventures from the case. You can try StewMac for a Swirl and Scratch Remover Polish or it may be available elsewhere.  

 

[elfro89]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMvW-_pkX3Q

Hijack.  :icon_jokercolor:

 

[JimBeed]

Oh dear, and yeah i agree with llm  :laughing7:
My body has a tiny chip under the bottom left of the bridge powerbucker where the screw driver caught when i was installing the pups, its only noticeable if you actually look for it.
So that gets the starting wear out of the way  :icon_jokercolor:

 

[SixString]

For sure...the imperfections are definitely on the very minor scale.  And after sleeping on it, I decided it's all good and there is no need to go through the hassle of a return.  This guitar will definitely be played regularly so it would have only been a matter of time until I did the damage myself. 

I'll probably try to buff things out, just for the sake of it, but definitely not worried about getting a flawless finish.  I've learned my lesson about black gloss finishes....regardless of much I like them, there won't be any more in my future after this one!

I am curious though, has anyone ever dulled a black gloss finish with success?  Seems like a good idea in my head, however that technically means going from a few scratches to billions of scratches...so......?

PS - I did hear back from Warmoth and they were definitely ready to help me correct the situation if I wanted....so cheers to them ccasion14:

 

[NovasScootYa]

One thing good about black is when it gets old, scratched and bruised it oozes vibe...there's light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[AutoBat]

I've had a black guitar for the past 15 years.  It's the one part I haven't considered replacing.  The wears on it tell stories, even if I'm not sure how a couple of them got there.

 

[jlegnor]

A follow up question - is white the easiest color to get a good finish on?  Or is it somewhere in the middle?

In my opinion they're all the same.  Only difference is the darker/brighter colors show it more from light reflections than the lighter ones.  I got a Vintage White body from Warmoth, and after assembly I could see the scuff marks from the cardboard I had it laying on.  But you have to look real hard.

Like Nova said, it's gonna get scuffed up alittle just from the assembly.  It's just in the top clear coat so you could buff them out if you wanted too.  I don't bother cause I like to ding mine up on purpose also just to get that broke-in feeling with it.

 

[SixString]

One thing good about black is when it gets old, scratched and bruised it oozes vibe...there's light at the end of the tunnel.

Yup, badasss.

 

[spauldingrules]

Okay, I agree on a pro finish.  What about for a DIY spray can finish?

A follow up question - is white the easiest color to get a good finish on?  Or is it somewhere in the middle?

In my opinion they're all the same.  Only difference is the darker/brighter colors show it more from light reflections than the lighter ones.  I got a Vintage White body from Warmoth, and after assembly I could see the scuff marks from the cardboard I had it laying on.  But you have to look real hard.

Like Nova said, it's gonna get scuffed up alittle just from the assembly.   It's just in the top clear coat so you could buff them out if you wanted too.  I don't bother cause I like to ding mine up on purpose also just to get that broke-in feeling with it.

 

[jlegnor]

Okay, I agree on a pro finish.  What about for a DIY spray can finish?

A follow up question - is white the easiest color to get a good finish on?  Or is it somewhere in the middle?

In my opinion they're all the same.  Only difference is the darker/brighter colors show it more from light reflections than the lighter ones.  I got a Vintage White body from Warmoth, and after assembly I could see the scuff marks from the cardboard I had it laying on.  But you have to look real hard.

Like Nova said, it's gonna get scuffed up alittle just from the assembly.   It's just in the top clear coat so you could buff them out if you wanted too.  I don't bother cause I like to ding mine up on purpose also just to get that broke-in feeling with it.

I did my first Warmoth with Stew-Mac Nitro cans.  Turned out great!  The back and sides were painted Black and I had it down to a mirror finish.  But about 9months later or so, the paint started to shrink.  The clear coated dyed top looked fine, but the Black back you could see it more. 

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

One thing good about black is when it gets old, scratched and bruised it oozes vibe...there's light at the end of the tunnel.

In this case, that is the difference between a Poly and Nitro finish.  Clapton's Blackie (pictured) is a Nitro finish and Poly just don't wear like that, not w/out help. 

 

[SixString]

Per Warmoth's advice and a little testing on my own...some light buffing with Meguiars Rubbing Compound will get things looking mint again.  This will mainly be for purposes of taking the baby photos for display...and to also calm my OCD with trying to attain perfection.  After that, whatever happens....happens :icon_biggrin:

Just for reference, here's a photo of what I was referring too.  Most likely from rubbing against the shipping materials...