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Should I put a Bigsby on my Tele?

Why would you need to shim? I had no idea that was a consideration.

I looked at I was also looking at the Vibramate, which allows you to install without drilling. And I looked at some roller saddles too. Maybe not worth it.

And yes, I started looking at this mostly as a way to solve neck dive. Tow chain seems pretty extreme though.

If you use the Fender "F" logo Bigbsy kit, with the Mustang style bridge, then you have to shim the neck. If you use the Bigsby B16 kit, then you have to shim the bridge. Both of these are the same reason that Warmoth angles the neck pocket for TOM on Teles, the bridge sits higher than a ashtray.

But, if you use one of the aftermarket the modded "cut" 3-barrel bridge plate that lets the strings pass through, you don't need a shim*. I'm not sure about the Vibramate kit so it raises the tailpiece.

There are plusses and minus to every option.

*Well, actually, all vintage Fenders from Leo's day had a thin shim (often part of a Fender business card), as do many boutiques, this is because they felt the tone was a little better with larger break angle over the saddles.
 
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Thanks for all the responses! Is there a standard (4-screw) style bridge with 6 individual saddles I can use without needing to shim? I can't seem to find any...
 
Thanks for all the responses! Is there a standard (4-screw) style bridge with 6 individual saddles I can use without needing to shim? I can't seem to find any...
If the string passes OVER the top of the saddles you might be ok. It won't work with block saddles that the string goes through.
 
Thanks for all the responses! Is there a standard (4-screw) style bridge with 6 individual saddles I can use without needing to shim? I can't seem to find any...

4 screw? Yes. 6 saddle? No.. You have to switch to 3 barrel (or Mastery), because it moves the adjustment screws out of the way and allows room for the strings to pass through. Some people just Dremel slots into existing 3-barrle bridges

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I've always been reluctant to get a 3-barrel bridge because you can never get the intonation perfect - but I've never actually tried one. How big an issue is it?
 
I've always been reluctant to get a 3-barrel bridge because you can never get the intonation perfect - but I've never actually tried one. How big an issue is it?

With modern compensated saddles, intonation is pretty dan good, some allow for more tweaking than others.

And, relative to a trem (Bigsbsy or otherwise)? Or shortcomings of intonation on a fretboard? The shared saddle is insignificant.
 
Well he-double toothpicks! I just ordered up a Wilkenson compensated 3 brass saddle tele bridge and a cheap Bigsby knock off to install on my Telecaster will report back in a week or so.
 
Well he-double toothpicks! I just ordered up a Wilkenson compensated 3 brass saddle tele bridge and a cheap Bigsby knock off to install on my Telecaster will report back in a week or so.
THIS IS WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!
 
I'm thinking about ordering the following:

Bigsby B5
Callaham front roller
Callaham string shaft

but I'm still unsure which bridge to get... Assuming 3-saddle is the way to go, what's my best option?
 
I'm thinking about ordering the following:

Bigsby B5
Callaham front roller
Callaham string shaft

but I'm still unsure which bridge to get... Assuming 3-saddle is the way to go, what's my best option?
Well, there are a-lot out there and they all work pretty well (as long as you have compensated saddles). The thing that you have to worry about is cutting away the back of the bridge to allow the strings to pass through to the Bigsby un-hindered. If you have some budget for this project, the Callaham bridge has the slots already cut for you (as well as the slots in the intonation screws so you can adjust them from the other side). The down side is that it's not cheap. But it is a nice part and fully modded for the Bigsby.

- UPDATE -
Just had a look at the Callaham website. The bridge with saddles is only $165 USD. It's not that dear, so you may as well just go with that.
 
Also, I am going to pull the pins and drill thru as stringing looks to be a pita.
 
Also, I am going to pull the pins and drill thru as stringing looks to be a pita.
I think that's the point of the Callaham string shaft. I guess you're just going to make that mod yourself?

Ok so...

Bigsby B5 = $150 (at GC)
Callaham front roller = $50
Callaham string shaft = $50
Callaham bridge = $165

So like $450ish after tax/shipping/etc. I'll drink on it...
 
I think that's the point of the Callaham string shaft. I guess you're just going to make that mod yourself?

Ok so...

Bigsby B5 = $150 (at GC)
Callaham front roller = $50
Callaham string shaft = $50
Callaham bridge = $165

So like $450ish after tax/shipping/etc. I'll drink on it...
Heck ya I am doing it myself! 450 sounds pretty expensive in my book, but they are good parts.
 
I'm mostly just worried that I won't like it and then will have wasted a bunch of $ and defaced my lovely axe. I've never owned a Bigsby.
 
I'm mostly just worried that I won't like it and then will have wasted a bunch of $ and defaced my lovely axe. I've never owned a Bigsby.
I hear ya. Neither have I, but I am ok with filling holes and refinishing if necessary. In fact, I am going to pull it apart and refinish it before I put the old trem on. Mine I like but don't love currently. It is a Fender std MIM Arctic White I may put a Warmoth neck on it also.

No guts, no glory!
 
Also, I am going to pull the pins and drill thru as stringing looks to be a pita.
As an owner of 4 Bigsby or Bigsby like systems

True Dat.

Callaham as a replacement roller. From what I heard, doesn’t with with the F branded models. Then again there is the spoiler add on.
 
I hear ya. Neither have I, but I am ok with filling holes and refinishing if necessary. In fact, I am going to pull it apart and refinish it before I put the old trem on. Mine I like but don't love currently. It is a Fender std MIM Arctic White I may put a Warmoth neck on it also.

No guts, no glory!
The term for this is snake bit
 
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