?'s on sanding sealer and DIY natural masked binding

jmohil

Junior Member
Messages
91
Hey all, 

Need some advice.  So I've got a body that was previously finished with pure tung oil, and I want to do a lacquer finish on it now.  I've sanded the crap out of it to try and remove as much of the tung oil as possible, let it dry out for a couple of months, and have put on a few coats of bullseye shellac.  I'm looking to do a burst finish with the stewmac rattle cans and have everything ready to go.  A couple of questions:

-When I bought my stewmac lacquer, I also purchased a can of the clear lacquer sanding sealer.  Should I use this, or would it be overkill on top of the shellac?

-I'm going to use the sunbursting method from the stewmac website:  http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/promo/ts0054_spraycans
, and was contemplating doing a natural masked binding.    For anyone that has done a natural binding, how did you handle the taping as far as the process steps go?  I was planning on shooting a couple of clear coats first, then masking, then doing the individual burst colors (maybe with a clear coat or two inbetween), then pulling off the tape and doing the clear topcoats.    I'm a little nervous though....if I shoot several coats, let them dry, and then pull of the tape, is it going to take any of the surrounding finish with it when I pull it off?  Should I pull off the tape before before coats are dry and retape between? 

Any advice would be appreciated!
 
Shellac is a great sealer to use under lacquer (actually it's a great sealer under pretty much anything.)  If the surface is clean and level/smooth then their may be no further gain by using the nitro sanding sealer.  If there is still pore/surface texture visible then sanding sealer, followed by sanding with 400 grit on a block is a great way to establish a super smooth foundation for the top coats.

Lifting tape when the finish is still wet is something for the very brave or the very foolish.  One wrong twitch and it's all over but the crying. 

Removing tape after the finish has set up is much safer.  Yes, you may lift up more of the finish if you are not careful and attentive.  Just go slow and be ready with a sharp razor blade or exacto knife.  You can even use the blade to lightly score the edge along the tape before lifting.  Any minor knicks that go into the finish should 'burn in' when you apply further layers of finish.  When doing this kind of stuff I use a pair of strong reading glasses.
 
Good deal.  Thanks for the advice, particularly with the razor blade trick...hadn't thought of that.    This is my first attempt at a nitro finish, so hopefully I can pull it off!
 
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