Router advise

[teleme01]

I have a couple of blanks and a tele template, but I don't have a router, I don't have any other use so I will get a cheap harbor freight. I want corded but don't know if I need 1/4", 1/2", plunge base, etc... will be my first and only router

 

[mayfly]

Hmmm. Routers are cruel mistresses. Please be careful with that thang. Make sure you un-plug it before you change bits, etc.

If you are doing just a couple of bodies, then a 1/4" non-plunge will do just fine. You don't need a plunge router when routing the roundovers on the edge. For the interior pickup routes, just drill a hole inside the area where you want to route and start with the bit in the hole - just make sure that the router bit is NOT touching any part of the work before you turn it on. Otherwise the sucker will jump out of the work at you. Just what you need - a sharp out of control blade spinning at 10,000RPM jumping around the bench (don't ask me how I know).

For roundovers, one thing that I would consider if it's in your budget, is a router table. Those work out quite well when doing roundovers and following a template outline.

One last thing: for the outline, saw the work to approximately the outline you want first. Then routing the outline to the template will go MUCH smoother.

 

[bagman67]

For roundovers, one thing that I would consider if it's in your budget, is a router table. Those work out quite well when doing roundovers and following a template outline.

I have seen hordes of benchtop router tables on Facebook Marketplace for really accessible prices - as low as 40 bucks or so for a very simple Skil or Craftsman table, which would likely suit your comparatively simple needs.

If you really want to go cheap, you can just grab a piece of 3/4" plywood, bore a hole big enough to clear your bit, and screw the router base to it. Then you can stand the board bit-side-up on a couple cinder blocks, clamp it to a tabletop, or hold it in a vise.

 

[TBurst Std]

As this is your 1st router, practice first. The router is a powerful beast and eats anything/everything.

 

[Don O]

Safety glasses and/or a face shield are mandatory. Stay safe.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

What part of the country are you located?

I can’t overstate what has already been well stated so far and this is wise, safe counsel.

I would only add to Mayfly’s comment about sawing close with the following context: when routing, the amount of cut of each pass of routing should be no thicker than half the diameter of the router bit.

This will do three things.

1: Ensure a more cleaner cut.
2: Keep the bit from heating up excessively
3: Reduce the propensity for kicking back or “chip out”.

 

[Hodgo]

I’m just going to glomp on the safety train and say routers do not care what material gets in their way, they will rip your finger off before you even feel the pain.

I have two, one is a corded 1hp model and the other is the DeWalt 20V brushless. The latter does almost all of the work these days, while the corded model is attached to a router table which I like for exterior roundiver profiles, pickguards, etc.

 

[Rick]

Be careful with your hands too ... my Dad sawed the fingers off his left hand, and we had to pick them up and bring them to the hospital. They did a good job of sewing them back on, but his pinky and ring finger where never the same. He was distracted by the dog who ran thru his legs to chase a squirrel. Dad didn't blame the dog though, and loved her nonetheless. It was a nice lovable dog, and was doing what dogs do.

 

[teleme01]

What part of the country are you located?

Southwest louisiana, gulf coast.
I appreciate all the advice,

 

[PFDarkside]

I’d like to jump on this train….

If I wanted to route out a cavity under a Strat Pickguard for a preamp and on the back for a battery box, would a router jig for my dremel have enough juice to do this job or do I need a router? I wonder if a Forstner bit on a drill press would achieve the preamp goal since it’s not visible.

Great tip on the amount of material that can be removed based on the bit size.

 

[bagman67]

You could use the dremel, bearing in mind that it's going to be slow going. The tool will tell you how fast you can go. Hogging out the bulk of the waste with the Forstner bit is definitely the way to go.

 

[TBurst Std]

That’s a good idea. As we have already noted, the router is the most dangerous tool in your work area. Routers be like a saying:

If at first you don’t succeed, then sky diving isn’t for you.

If you ever nicked yourself with a drill, keep in mind it was 300-800 rpm. A router is 10,000. Any mistake/mishap with one os not recoverable.

Let’s just say, it’s the only tool I lock away. The only things I respect more than a router is Christ Jesus and God himself.

 

[JacobJames]

I will also add: If you do go for a drop-down router, it is beneficial to have a template for whatever it is you are dropping into. The metal safety guide around the bit will help maintain a good cut on the perimeter trying to achieve. Also, take off about 1/8" at a time until you get to your depth. Not only will this give a clean cut, but it'll be much safer not hogging all that material. I used to make countertops, and we would use drop down routers for tight joints on the larger tops. They can be a very handy tool. One time I tried this on a tele mod but went for too much material and quickly regretted it. Thing started eating and pulling me all over the place. Got the opening desired, plus the pickguard covered that mistake. Also, no fingers were lost. Lucky.

 

[teleme01]

the blanks and templates

Think I'm gonna abandon this project