Router advise
- Thread starter teleme01
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mayfly
Epic Member
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Hmmm. Routers are cruel mistresses. Please be careful with that thang. Make sure you un-plug it before you change bits, etc.
If you are doing just a couple of bodies, then a 1/4" non-plunge will do just fine. You don't need a plunge router when routing the roundovers on the edge. For the interior pickup routes, just drill a hole inside the area where you want to route and start with the bit in the hole - just make sure that the router bit is NOT touching any part of the work before you turn it on. Otherwise the sucker will jump out of the work at you. Just what you need - a sharp out of control blade spinning at 10,000RPM jumping around the bench (don't ask me how I know).
For roundovers, one thing that I would consider if it's in your budget, is a router table. Those work out quite well when doing roundovers and following a template outline.
One last thing: for the outline, saw the work to approximately the outline you want first. Then routing the outline to the template will go MUCH smoother.
If you are doing just a couple of bodies, then a 1/4" non-plunge will do just fine. You don't need a plunge router when routing the roundovers on the edge. For the interior pickup routes, just drill a hole inside the area where you want to route and start with the bit in the hole - just make sure that the router bit is NOT touching any part of the work before you turn it on. Otherwise the sucker will jump out of the work at you. Just what you need - a sharp out of control blade spinning at 10,000RPM jumping around the bench (don't ask me how I know).
For roundovers, one thing that I would consider if it's in your budget, is a router table. Those work out quite well when doing roundovers and following a template outline.
One last thing: for the outline, saw the work to approximately the outline you want first. Then routing the outline to the template will go MUCH smoother.
bagman67
Epic Member
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I have seen hordes of benchtop router tables on Facebook Marketplace for really accessible prices - as low as 40 bucks or so for a very simple Skil or Craftsman table, which would likely suit your comparatively simple needs.
If you really want to go cheap, you can just grab a piece of 3/4" plywood, bore a hole big enough to clear your bit, and screw the router base to it. Then you can stand the board bit-side-up on a couple cinder blocks, clamp it to a tabletop, or hold it in a vise.
TBurst Std
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As this is your 1st router, practice first. The router is a powerful beast and eats anything/everything.
TonyFlyingSquirrel
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What part of the country are you located?
I can’t overstate what has already been well stated so far and this is wise, safe counsel.
I would only add to Mayfly’s comment about sawing close with the following context: when routing, the amount of cut of each pass of routing should be no thicker than half the diameter of the router bit.
This will do three things.
1: Ensure a more cleaner cut.
2: Keep the bit from heating up excessively
3: Reduce the propensity for kicking back or “chip out”.
I can’t overstate what has already been well stated so far and this is wise, safe counsel.
I would only add to Mayfly’s comment about sawing close with the following context: when routing, the amount of cut of each pass of routing should be no thicker than half the diameter of the router bit.
This will do three things.
1: Ensure a more cleaner cut.
2: Keep the bit from heating up excessively
3: Reduce the propensity for kicking back or “chip out”.
Hodgo
Senior Member
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I’m just going to glomp on the safety train and say routers do not care what material gets in their way, they will rip your finger off before you even feel the pain.
I have two, one is a corded 1hp model and the other is the DeWalt 20V brushless. The latter does almost all of the work these days, while the corded model is attached to a router table which I like for exterior roundiver profiles, pickguards, etc.
I have two, one is a corded 1hp model and the other is the DeWalt 20V brushless. The latter does almost all of the work these days, while the corded model is attached to a router table which I like for exterior roundiver profiles, pickguards, etc.
Rick
Epic Member
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Be careful with your hands too ... my Dad sawed the fingers off his left hand, and we had to pick them up and bring them to the hospital. They did a good job of sewing them back on, but his pinky and ring finger where never the same. He was distracted by the dog who ran thru his legs to chase a squirrel. Dad didn't blame the dog though, and loved her nonetheless. It was a nice lovable dog, and was doing what dogs do.
teleme01
Experienced Member
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Southwest louisiana, gulf coast.
I appreciate all the advice,
PFDarkside
Senior Member
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I’d like to jump on this train….
If I wanted to route out a cavity under a Strat Pickguard for a preamp and on the back for a battery box, would a router jig for my dremel have enough juice to do this job or do I need a router? I wonder if a Forstner bit on a drill press would achieve the preamp goal since it’s not visible.
Great tip on the amount of material that can be removed based on the bit size.
If I wanted to route out a cavity under a Strat Pickguard for a preamp and on the back for a battery box, would a router jig for my dremel have enough juice to do this job or do I need a router? I wonder if a Forstner bit on a drill press would achieve the preamp goal since it’s not visible.
Great tip on the amount of material that can be removed based on the bit size.
TBurst Std
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That’s a good idea. As we have already noted, the router is the most dangerous tool in your work area. Routers be like a saying:
If at first you don’t succeed, then sky diving isn’t for you.
If you ever nicked yourself with a drill, keep in mind it was 300-800 rpm. A router is 10,000. Any mistake/mishap with one os not recoverable.
Let’s just say, it’s the only tool I lock away. The only things I respect more than a router is Christ Jesus and God himself.
If at first you don’t succeed, then sky diving isn’t for you.
If you ever nicked yourself with a drill, keep in mind it was 300-800 rpm. A router is 10,000. Any mistake/mishap with one os not recoverable.
Let’s just say, it’s the only tool I lock away. The only things I respect more than a router is Christ Jesus and God himself.
Last edited:
JacobJames
Junior Member
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- 163
I will also add: If you do go for a drop-down router, it is beneficial to have a template for whatever it is you are dropping into. The metal safety guide around the bit will help maintain a good cut on the perimeter trying to achieve. Also, take off about 1/8" at a time until you get to your depth. Not only will this give a clean cut, but it'll be much safer not hogging all that material. I used to make countertops, and we would use drop down routers for tight joints on the larger tops. They can be a very handy tool. One time I tried this on a tele mod but went for too much material and quickly regretted it. Thing started eating and pulling me all over the place. Got the opening desired, plus the pickguard covered that mistake. Also, no fingers were lost. Lucky. 
Just chiming in on the Dewalt 20v. This is what I wound up with as well. And will say same as others. Safety first. One advantage of at least this one is it stops almost immediately when you turn it off - guessing other cordless might do the same. Disadvantage is the weight distribution with the battery but got used to it pretty quick.
Hodgo
Senior Member
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It’s not that bad, the safety advice is just to make sure you have the proper respect for the tool. If you’re responsible enough to pilot 3 tons of steel at 65mph on a public road I’m sure you can handle it. Same rules apply, don’t rout under the influence and stay alert.
stratamania
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In addition to safety advice, one must know their own personal limitations of being able to handle the tools they are using.
NedRyerson
Senior Member
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The warnings and caution around routers (and by extension, band saws and table saws) are meant to give you a foundation for safety, not to scare you off. These tools are meant to rend through wood. Our flesh is much softer and squishier.
That being said, I started with an old Porter & Cable that I inherited from my in-laws, a model built when "safety standards" were "a nifty idea." I even posted about that on this forum a few years ago.
I had a healthy fear when I laid it into a scrap piece just to get the feel for it, and I was not disappointed. It can be terrifying, but with a good, clean cut, the results are also highly satisfying. I've routed countless times now, but I do not and will not lose my respect for them, and I still learn every single time I use them.
I've retired the inherited router now, and replaced it with three newer models. Two are full-sized corded beasts, one is a battery powered one. The two full-sized are a Bosch which resides permanently in my bench-top router table, the other is a Skil that I use for heavy duty, top-down work like the control cavity or trem spring cavity. Both accommodate the ¼" and ½" shank bits. The battery-powered one is a smaller Ryobi which I use for more precision work like neck pockets and pickup cavities, and that only takes the ¼" bits.
I've found that, compared to a true router, a Dremel is too vastly underpowered to be effective at the larger work like bodies and cavities. Maybe good for inlay work, binding channels, and other smaller, precision areas, but I wouldn't waste my time or my Dremel's motor on trying to cut out a whole guitar body with it.
The templates in your post are the same ones I use, from GitrBuilder on eBay. I have quite a collection of his products
I suggest, as part of router practice before laying a bit to a real stock piece like those pretty blanks, is to make copies of those templates on sheets of MDF. MDF won't kick back or be subject to tear-out like real wood will, and if there's anything that's a confidence killer in your beginning stages of routing, it's tear-out.
And that'll also save your original templates in case of accidents or just use over time. I've used my Tele template so much but didn't make a copy of it that it's wearing out. Plus I also misjudged bit depth once when using it to route the control cavity that the collet on the router came into contact with the template itself and started burning a channel through it.
(another learning experience)
All in all, routing is like driving a performance car. It takes greater expertise, care, and caution and with just a fraction of a second of carelessness, potentially deadly, but it's also very rewarding.
The other safety aspects of routing is, in addition to goggles, wear a respirator and hearing protection. A good quality respirator is essential, especially if you're going to rout MDF. Those microscopic particles are brutal on lungs.
Finally, don't skimp out on the tool itself. I avoid Harbor Freight like a plague with anything beyond the simplest of simple hand tools. They're all cheap for a reason. While I'm not saying you should go overboard and buy a router from StewMac for $5,000 (they don't sell routers, but they would if they could
). Mid-grade major-name models have better quality than anything available from HF.
Same with the bits. It's tempting to buy those off-brand el cheapos from Amazon, but again, you get what you pay for. Out of necessity one day, I went to the hardware store in the village where my cottage/workshop is because I needed a replacement router bit. It was some no-name off-brand. It was utter garbage. I could feel the difference as soon as I fed my workpiece into it, compared to the Freud or Amana bits I normally buy. And I could also feel and see how bad the cuts were.
Don't give up on this. Just temper your expectations and the expected rate of your progress. While you say you want to commit to your first, last, and only router, as you'll note in my own tale, that's not always realistic. Again, I have three, and each of them have very specific uses. You may or may not find yourself in the same boat.
Just as playing music isn't a cheap hobby, neither is making the instruments we play. Shortcuts only lead to disappointment and sometimes, the tradeoff in saving a couple of bucks up front versus what you get in the end may not always be favorable.
That being said, I started with an old Porter & Cable that I inherited from my in-laws, a model built when "safety standards" were "a nifty idea." I even posted about that on this forum a few years ago.
I had a healthy fear when I laid it into a scrap piece just to get the feel for it, and I was not disappointed. It can be terrifying, but with a good, clean cut, the results are also highly satisfying. I've routed countless times now, but I do not and will not lose my respect for them, and I still learn every single time I use them.
I've retired the inherited router now, and replaced it with three newer models. Two are full-sized corded beasts, one is a battery powered one. The two full-sized are a Bosch which resides permanently in my bench-top router table, the other is a Skil that I use for heavy duty, top-down work like the control cavity or trem spring cavity. Both accommodate the ¼" and ½" shank bits. The battery-powered one is a smaller Ryobi which I use for more precision work like neck pockets and pickup cavities, and that only takes the ¼" bits.
I've found that, compared to a true router, a Dremel is too vastly underpowered to be effective at the larger work like bodies and cavities. Maybe good for inlay work, binding channels, and other smaller, precision areas, but I wouldn't waste my time or my Dremel's motor on trying to cut out a whole guitar body with it.
The templates in your post are the same ones I use, from GitrBuilder on eBay. I have quite a collection of his products
I suggest, as part of router practice before laying a bit to a real stock piece like those pretty blanks, is to make copies of those templates on sheets of MDF. MDF won't kick back or be subject to tear-out like real wood will, and if there's anything that's a confidence killer in your beginning stages of routing, it's tear-out.And that'll also save your original templates in case of accidents or just use over time. I've used my Tele template so much but didn't make a copy of it that it's wearing out. Plus I also misjudged bit depth once when using it to route the control cavity that the collet on the router came into contact with the template itself and started burning a channel through it.
(another learning experience)
All in all, routing is like driving a performance car. It takes greater expertise, care, and caution and with just a fraction of a second of carelessness, potentially deadly, but it's also very rewarding.
The other safety aspects of routing is, in addition to goggles, wear a respirator and hearing protection. A good quality respirator is essential, especially if you're going to rout MDF. Those microscopic particles are brutal on lungs.
Finally, don't skimp out on the tool itself. I avoid Harbor Freight like a plague with anything beyond the simplest of simple hand tools. They're all cheap for a reason. While I'm not saying you should go overboard and buy a router from StewMac for $5,000 (they don't sell routers, but they would if they could
). Mid-grade major-name models have better quality than anything available from HF.Same with the bits. It's tempting to buy those off-brand el cheapos from Amazon, but again, you get what you pay for. Out of necessity one day, I went to the hardware store in the village where my cottage/workshop is because I needed a replacement router bit. It was some no-name off-brand. It was utter garbage. I could feel the difference as soon as I fed my workpiece into it, compared to the Freud or Amana bits I normally buy. And I could also feel and see how bad the cuts were.
Don't give up on this. Just temper your expectations and the expected rate of your progress. While you say you want to commit to your first, last, and only router, as you'll note in my own tale, that's not always realistic. Again, I have three, and each of them have very specific uses. You may or may not find yourself in the same boat.
Just as playing music isn't a cheap hobby, neither is making the instruments we play. Shortcuts only lead to disappointment and sometimes, the tradeoff in saving a couple of bucks up front versus what you get in the end may not always be favorable.
teleme01
Experienced Member
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@NedRyerson
thank you for your thoughtful and indepth response. Hopefully this thread will help others and was not a waste of time. For me personally, I am cutting my loses and stopping at $125, the cost of the 2 blanks and caberina template. Making a guitar from a blank is above my skills set, i was benge shopping on ebay and, well... shit happens. I will end up giving them to someone, maybe school wood shop.
thank you for your thoughtful and indepth response. Hopefully this thread will help others and was not a waste of time. For me personally, I am cutting my loses and stopping at $125, the cost of the 2 blanks and caberina template. Making a guitar from a blank is above my skills set, i was benge shopping on ebay and, well... shit happens. I will end up giving them to someone, maybe school wood shop.
