Roasted Ash hollow tele body with roasted maple neck - Balanced?

[sleemon]

Hi guys,

This is my first post, I'm hoping that I'm doing this in the correct way and that my English is alright (I'm from Denmark).

I'm considering building my first and ultralight telecaster from a (Warmoth custom) hollow roasted ash body (contoured heel) and an unfinished roasted maple Indian rosewood (dark) neck. Tv Jones classic pu's. SS frets, compound radius, some lightweight locking tuners, control cavity on the back, flat standard fender bridge.

I'm going to use this as a three-way switch
https://www.thomann.de/dk/dimarzio_ep_1111.htm
These strap buttons
https://www.thomann.de/dk/harley_benton_gurtpin_set_chrome.htm
These strap blocks
https://www.thomann.de/dk/fender_strap_blocks.htm
And probably these locking tuners
https://www.thomann.de/dk/harley_benton_parts_locking_tuners_6l_chrome.htm

I have three questions:

1.) Will it be neck heavy? The roasted neck will be light, I guess, I don't know how light it is going to be with the Indian rosewood though. If so, could it be remedied by placing the strap button on the neck plate (I've tried this before with success).

2.) Can I buy some aftermarket saddles for the American Standard bridge? I don't particularly like the look of the matte ones that it comes with.

3.) How do you like my guitar idea? As mentioned it will be my first, did I overlook anything?

Thank you!

 

[Logrinn]

I got a chambered alder 7/8 Tele body and a neck made out of bloodwood with a ebony fingerboard and while it plays and sounds fantastic it is very neck heavy. (By the way, I have the same switch in my Tele)

Your neck will definitely be lighter, but with a roasted body that's also chambered, you'll probably end up with a lighter body too.
So, yes, there's a big risk you will get neck dive.

As for the tuners, I would get some that are also staggered:

 

[stratamania]

Welcome to the forum.

Yes, you can buy aftermarket saddles, Callaham springs to mind.

I don't think the Harley Benton, stuff is too good a quality, you would be better off with parts such as this for example.

Tuners,

https://www.thomann.de/gb/schaller_m6_135_locking_6l_c_new.htm

https://www.thomann.de/gb/schaller_security_locks_c.htm?ref=search_rslt_schaller+strap+locks_218330_1

 

[Cagey]

That body will outweigh that neck by 3:1, easily. The forward strap hanger is well ahead of the center of gravity on that body design. Chance of neck dive: 0%. Sounds like it's gonna be a great guitar!

 

[sleemon]

Thank you for your replies! Nice looking tele!
I know Harvey Benton is the cheapest but I read some nice reviews and I like the look and size. Smaller than the m6.

Does anyone have experience with the M6 mini? It looks like they are staggered, I like that idea. I'm probably going to go for this one.
https://www.thomann.de/gb/schaller_m6lmini_gitarrenmechanik.htm?ref=search_rslt_m6+mini_152425_1

Perhaps I should write Warmoth and ask about the specific weight of the body and neck.

I played quite a few guitars in the store today and found that I need both the tummy and the right arm contour so I'm going to go for the chambered roasted ash body instead of hollow, although I like the idea of a hollow body in a tele. Do you recommend some fancy wiring with the two TV Jones pickups? I'm going to have a volume, tone and 3 way switch.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the body and neck will match color wise. I'm going to give the body some sort of finish, don't know yet whether it will be natural or black satin. With cabronita pickguard from Warmoth. I guess it will fit the tele body?

 

[Cagey]

I use the Schaller M6 Mini lockers almost exclusively, and like them a lot. They're not heavy, and in fact the last set I used were lighter than they've been in the past as they've changed the material of the knurled locking nut on the rear. They are staggered if you buy them as a set, but not as progressively as something like a Sperzel. It's 3 taller/3 shorter, which works just as well. If you buy them individually (the way Warmoth sells them), then of course they're all the same height. I've never found the staggering to be any advantage, particularly if you have the nut properly cut, but of course it doesn't hurt anything, either. Regardless, I never use string trees.

As for finish, for the amount of time/aggravation/cost you'll have doing it yourself, there's little reason to do so when you consider the cost, quality and durability of Warmoth's finishes. Unless you just can't get the color scheme you want, you'd really be doing yourself a big favor to let them do it. This coming from a guy who has a spray rig and sometimes does his own finishes.

 

[TConnelly]

If you're going to spend much time playing seated with the guitar on your thigh I would say stick with vintage or vintage modern construction on the neck. The modern costruction is a bit heavier. I built a chambered swamp ash tele with a modern construction roasted maple/rosewood neck and it is a little neck heavy When seated. Slight but noticeable.. As others have said, standing it's not an issue at all.

Cheers................Todd

 

[Sovereign_13]

RE: wiring.  As someone who loves crazy wiring and control/switching layouts, there's one major drawback to all that - unless you know that guitar and its controls well, you might spend more time trying to remember/figure out how the dang thing works than you do playing it.

Consider a Fender Jaguar.  There are all kinds of controls to fiddle with, which is neat and fun and novel, but if you don't know how it all works together it can be frustrating the first few times.  Switching to a Jag from something like a Tele for the first time is mind-bending.  The familiar 3-way switch is gone, and there are now other fiddly bits on the upper bout that only work half the time (i.e., when they're brought into the circuit by way of one of the new switches).  Can you figure it out?  Sure, with enough time spent.  After a while, you'll probably get the hang of it, but until then you might just get bored with trying to get the sound you want.

With that in mind, you already have a simple, straightforward Tele control layout.  I'd leave it alone for now unless you're trying to address something specific.  Excessively complicated control schemes without a specific goal end up either mostly useless/unused, or lead to "analysis paralysis" - inability to make a selection because of too many options.

If you wanted to embrace the 50's-ness of TV Jones pickups, you could opt for a 50's wiring scheme, but you should know going in that it does alter the way the control knobs interact.  That might be counter-intuitive or just too different from any other guitars you might have.  The nice part is that it's a pretty simple mod to make, and therefore to unmake.

If nothing else, simplicity is part of the beauty and charm of a Telecaster.  It's a no-nonsense, no-frills guitar at heart, even when you dress it up with extra knobs and humbuckers and fancy switching.

 

[sleemon]

Here's the specs on the parts I've bought. I opted for ebony fingerboard because of CITES - hope it will not be neck heavy! I bought two pickguards (black and tortoise) - then I can chose the one that suites my mood! I need tuners, a strap and?
I guess it's going to take a while since it needs to be finished (4-5 weeks) and sent through customs in Denmark. Will keep you posted!

Model:
Chambered Telecaster®


Scale:
25-1/2"

Wood:
Roasted Swamp Ash on Roasted Swamp Ash

Rear Rout

TV Jones without Ears, TV Jones without Ears

Controls:
None

Bridge:
Fender® American Standard Flat Mount

Jack Rout:
3/4" (19mm) Side Jack Hole

Neck Pocket:
Tele® Shape

Mounting Holes:
Standard 4 Bolt

Contours:
Contoured Heel / Tummy Cut / Forearm Contour

Top Finish:
Black
$195.00

Finish Type:
Gloss Finish

CUSTOMNECK

Style:
Telecaster®

Construction:
Vintage/Modern Construction

Scale:
25-1/2"

Neck Wood:
Roasted Maple

Fingerboard Wood:
Ebony (Black)

Nut Width:
1-11/16"

Back Shape:
Standard thin

Fret Size:
SS6105 (Stainless)

Tuner Ream:
Planet Waves(13/32")

Radius:
10-16" Compound

Fret #:
22

Mounting Holes:
Standard 4 Bolt

Inlays:
Cream Face Dots

Side Dots:
White Side Dots

String Nut:
Black Corian - Standard Nut

Finish:
No Finish


PICKGUARD

Shape:
La Cabronita

Orientation:
Right Handed

Color:
.06" Black Solid Matte

Neck Pickup:
TV Jones Pickup Notch


PICKGUARD

Shape:
La Cabronita

Orientation:
Right Handed

Color:
Tortoise

Neck Pickup:
TV Jones Pickup Notch

FASH1C
Fender American Standard Flat Mount

GSF1C
Guitar String Ferrule, Chrome

6
CTS500
500K Pot, By CTS

2
WK1
Wiring Kit , (1.25 ft ea of Black, Red & White Wire, 3 ft of Coaxial Wire)

CAP2
Capacitor, Ceramic Disc, .022uf, 50 Volt

NP1C
Neck Plate, Chrome

FBJ1C
Football Side Jack Plate, Chrome

SSB1C
Standard Strap Buttons, Pair, Chrome

S7
Neck Screw, Set of 2+2 for Contoured Heel, Chrome

TVJ2
TV Classic, Neck, Universal Mount

TVJ1
TV Classic, Bridge, Universal Mount

 

[Cagey]

Gonna be a lovely instrument! Be sure to post pics of assembly.

 

[Fat Pete]

Jack socket?

I'd suggest asking them to change the jack rout to the 7/8" size; the 3/4" hole is a bit tight for quality sockets and the football plate will still cover the larger hole.

 

[Cagey]

Good catch. Absolutely right.

 

[sleemon]

Thanks!

Do I need anything else for the build besides the jack socket (forgot that)?
I have a press drill to make holes for the two pots (500k?) and three-way switch - I guess I'll find the right size for those - soldering iron, screwdriver - perhaps some small screws?

I'm sure I'll find out, just looking so much forward to putting it together and don't like the thought of something slipping my mind in preparation for the build  :bananaguitar:

 

[Cagey]

As strange as it may seem, forced interruptions aren't necessarily a Bad Thing on early builds. Gives you time to think, so you don't do something rash.

 

[musicispeace]

Echoing Cagey's view on string trees. My strats and my tele do not have them because the nuts were properly cut and filed.

 

[Logrinn]

That looks like it's going to be a sweet guitar. Good choice on the woods.

...
I have a press drill to make holes for the two pots (500k?) and three-way switch ...

Don't forget that you can't use any type of drill bit. You need to use a Forstner bit if you're drilling holes in a body that's finished.
Such as this one (but perhaps smaller):

And by the way:
Bor du i København? Jag bor strax utanför Lund i Skåne. ccasion14:

 

[sleemon]

Thank you for the advice on wiring. You convinced me! I'm still thinking about maybe having two volume and two tone knobs, like on my beloved Gibson Memphis 59' P90 ES330 reissue - but I'm probably going to opt for the simplistic tele layout and modern wiring. @Logrinn: Ja! I live in Copenhagen and thanks for the heads up on the drill bit!

Can't wait!!!

:turtle:

 

[sleemon]

Even though I agree with Sovereign_13 on not having too complicated wiring I must say that this is intriguing:
https://youtu.be/9FLRUeOG5l8
I guess it is this kind of S1 wiring:
From fenders homepage:
"the S-1 switch changes the actual sound of the pickups. Specifically, it selects the inside coil of each of the humbucking pickups, with the signal routed first through a capacitor/resistor combination that narrows the frequency bandwidth, and then through the outside coil of each pickup."
"Position one: bridge pickup only, single-coil tone with hum cancellation
Position two: bridge and neck pickups in parallel, single-coil tone with hum cancellation
Position three: neck pickup only, single-coil tone with hum cancellation"

 

[stratamania]

An S1 switch can be wired in all sorts of ways. It doesn't in itself dictate a particular scheme.

They are essentially a 4PDT switch on the back of a pot which in combination with a selector switch can give you quite a few possible scenarios.

 

[sleemon]

All of a sudden I am in doubt about my pickup choice. I really like the almost acoustic clarity and fullness of my underwound vintage gibson p90s in my 2013 VOS 330 and how the react to overdrive but my warmoth tele is supposed to be my practical giggind guitar and it's supposed to have less noise. I thought that the TV Jones Classic would be in the same ballpark as the p90s that I know and love, brighter than most humbuckers and with alot of clarity, but then I found out about the Fralin hum cancelling p90s. Now I'm considering changing my 4 day old warmoth custom tele body order to fit p90s and remove the TV Jones pickups from my order. As far as I can tell Warmoth didn't withdraw the money yet - the change of order fee is 25-45 usd?
Perhaps the TV Jones pickups is the better choice since I with my two (and only two) electric guitars can cover more ground, but perhaps I'm just a p90s fanboy...
Too many options!