recessed floyd rose questions

Music Man 91

Junior Member
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does anyone know how you can rout a recess into an existing FR rout to add a d-tuna? I saw the set-up online but all the guitars that had it didn't have a recess. does this mean that you can't recess a d-tuna?   :dontknow:

like this: no recess
dtuna.jpg


but this one is recessed with no d-tuna

ESP+HORIZON+FR+II+STBC+S.DUNCAN.JPG


anyone have answers?
 
just wonderin' if the d-tuna would be to long to fit the rout, or if the angle of the bridge against the rout woud break the d-tuna off. thanks for the info!
 
If you have a recessed floyd, you would have to modify the rout to accomodate a d-tuna.  If you google the web for Michael Wilton's instruction book, Power Tools, & zoom in, you'll see a good example of this on a custom Peavey axe that is recessed with a d-tuna.

Here's what I found with a quick search
http://www.guitarbooks.com/jpgs-gifs/powertools.gif

 
You'd have to block the bridge off to get the d-tuna to actually work. If your bridge is floating the other strings will go out of tune when you engage the D-Tuna.
 
OMG CD, your brilliant, no shit , of course it will. I think even with one of them trem setter thingies, it will go outta tune. I have a d-tuna, and its ok sorta, you really gotta dial them in, constantly. using it makes your fine tuner on that string almost useless. so everytime your string goes outta tune, you will be unlocking the nut.
I like the theory of it, and when its all set up it works fine, but only about a day or less.

It will all be that much worse on a full floating set-up.

Anyway, whats the question again?
 
Is the D-Tuna really that much of a pain in the ass? I was dead set on putting one on my guitar. :icon_scratch:
 
that's what i'm trying to figure out before i go and butcher a guiter attempting to install a d-tuna onto a recessed FR
 
I don't mean to sound callous here, but really, how hard is it to tune one string down from E to D?  I do it all the time and I don't have that extra peice of hardware.
 
CD said:
Is the D-Tuna really that much of a pain in the ass? I was dead set on putting one on my guitar. :icon_scratch:

It's not a pain in the ass as long as you dont mind adjusting it all the time.

Heres the problem: you know how it works? it works by puching down on the bolt to change pitch, the same bolt that the fine tuner pushes, the problem is that with the fine tuner all the way backed out and you set your droped tuning, when you slide the d-tuna in for normal tuning, it pushes the bolt almost to its limit down.
I say almost because there is a little left but not much. And if you already have 1-2 turns on the fine tuner, there will not be enough travel available in the Bolt for the D-Tuna to work. Your initial tuning and setting of the locking nut is soo critical, and If the string goes out of tune because of temperature or whatever, your unlocking the nut.    Having said all this, I still have one on a guitar, I only use it to play "Unchained"

Guitlouie, it's not hard at all, if you aren't using a locking nut, the purpose of the D-Tuna is to allow the player to drop tune on the fly without unlocking the nut. And when it's setup correct, it works great. it will stay good till the temperature change or string streches .You might have a small window to re-tune
 
CD- I am in no way trying to talk anyone out of getting a D-Tuna, It works good, you just gotta try it
 
Yeah, I see how that can be a problem.  I guess my comment was getting at something that might best be discussed elsewhere...I call it the Gadgetization of life.  It seems that sometimes in our quest to make things better, we tend to only complicate and create more problems than we solve.  But I guess I am, like the song says, just a simple kind of man.
 
do it this way
http://www.edroman.com/parts/kahler/stringlocks.htm

use the kahler 5314

and this
http://www.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=7

but i don't like locking trems, so i'd never need a locking nut. 
 
A lot of guys over at jcfonline don't like those kahler string locks. Even the Kahler trem guys like the floyd locking nut better. The strings can still get bound up in the nut with the kahler one. I was really considering using that until recently.

I'm still planning on using the D-Tuna Alfang, don't worry about it. It's nice to hear from people that actually have experience with it not just the sales pitch ya know.
 
I had a Hip-shot tremsetter, and found that it was quite easy to go to drop-D simply by detuning the fine tuner on the low E.  It worked flawlessly, returned to zero every time, and I could still operate it fully floating.  It's a good unit.  The performance will be the same if you get one and set it up properly as I did.  As for wether or not you'll need a D-tuna to go to drop-D, that's entirely up to your preference.

You'll need to realize though, that a unit like the tremsetter is ideally essential to work in conjuction with a floating trem if you decide to alter tunings on the fly.  It's not called a "stabilizer" for nothing.  When you change tunings, you alter the counter tension of the strings against the trem springs.  They will always want to equalize in their tension.  Without something to make it go back to that "zero" position when you've altered the tension, it will want to sit where the tension is equal.  Simple laws of physics applying here.
 
TonyFlyingSquirrel said:
I had a Hip-shot tremsetter, and found that it was quite easy to go to drop-D simply by detuning the fine tuner on the low E.  It worked flawlessly, returned to zero every time, and I could still operate it fully floating.  It's a good unit.  The performance will be the same if you get one and set it up properly as I did.  As for wether or not you'll need a D-tuna to go to drop-D, that's entirely up to your preference.

You'll need to realize though, that a unit like the tremsetter is ideally essential to work in conjuction with a floating trem if you decide to alter tunings on the fly.  It's not called a "stabilizer" for nothing.  When you change tunings, you alter the counter tension of the strings against the trem springs.  They will always want to equalize in their tension.  Without something to make it go back to that "zero" position when you've altered the tension, it will want to sit where the tension is equal.  Simple laws of physics applying here.

Just found this old topic...
So if you have 4 songs in Drop-D and one in standard tuning/E and don't want to bring an extra guitar with a Floyd, the Tremsetter could be a good idea?
 
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