Rear Routed Tele Questions (moved)

[Jcurl02]

OK, real close to pulling the trigger but want to ask a few last questions.

I'm going to order a rear routed tele (falt top) Mahogany back with maple top, rear routed.  I'm planning on DiMarzio Area T pickups.  They have a solderless system but it won't work on a rear route, pots are to short.  There in lies my first question, 1) Do I really need the long shaft pots?  I don't want to do  any of the wood work in the control cavity (I've seen some strings on how to do this to "thin out" the wood but perfer not to).  2)  If I need a longer pot, then don't I need a longer 3 position switch?  I haven't seen these on line.  Where can I purchase if needed?  3) The age old question, do I really need to shield?  4)  Seems like a silly question but since I'm mounting the pickup directly to the wood, do I really need springs?  The last set up pickups (EMGs) had threads on the pickup.  If the pickup has threads and the screws  thread into the wood, then don't the springs really become uselss?  The pickup height is set and does not float on the sping.  Or, should I ream out the threads on the pickup and let them float on the springs?

Thanks for all your help.

 

[drewfx]

OK, real close to pulling the trigger but want to ask a few last questions.

1) Do I really need the long shaft pots?  I don't want to do  any of the wood work in the control cavity (I've seen some strings on how to do this to "thin out" the wood but perfer not to). 

You need long shaft pots for thick Les Paul style tops. I believe regular pots should work for anything else.

2)  If I need a longer pot, then don't I need a longer 3 position switch?

No. W routes rear routed cavities to be a little bit thinner where a blade switch is installed.

3) The age old question, do I really need to shield? 

I generally shield things. But I'm not going to claim it makes any difference - at least if you aren't putting reams of EMI-sensitive electronics in there.

4)  Seems like a silly question but since I'm mounting the pickup directly to the wood, do I really need springs?  The last set up pickups (EMGs) had threads on the pickup.  If the pickup has threads and the screws  thread into the wood, then don't the springs really become uselss?  The pickup height is set and does not float on the sping.  Or, should I ream out the threads on the pickup and let them float on the springs?

Generally with wood mounted PU's you can just put some foam under the PU's. Wood mounted bass PU's are usually installed this way.

 

[Cagey]

OK, real close to pulling the trigger but want to ask a few last questions.

1) Do I really need the long shaft pots?  I don't want to do  any of the wood work in the control cavity (I've seen some strings on how to do this to "thin out" the wood but perfer not to).

Asked and answered. But, you should be aware that you can use long-shaft pots anywhere, while short ones only work with thin tops. With a long shaft but a short requirement, you simply put backup nut at the appropriate depth so it doesn't stick any farther than necessary out the top. Also, if you're using ground lugs they make for easier access than a short shaft pot will.

3) The age old question, do I really need to shield? 

Shielding the cavity won't hurt anything, but it won't do any good, either. What is important is that the signal wires be shielded. There's only so far you can go with that from a practical standpoint, but it should be done where possible. Where it's not, it should be because the wire run is simply too short. Don't let anything go more than an inch or so.

4)  Seems like a silly question but since I'm mounting the pickup directly to the wood, do I really need springs?  The last set up pickups (EMGs) had threads on the pickup.  If the pickup has threads and the screws  thread into the wood, then don't the springs really become uselss?  The pickup height is set and does not float on the sping.  Or, should I ream out the threads on the pickup and let them float on the springs?

Something has to give. If you're mounting to the wood, then the pickup's mounting holes need to clear their fasteners. Otherwise, all the foam/springs in the world aren't going to be able to exert any useful force against the bottom of the pickup to maintain its height. The pickup will want to follow the fasteners up/down.