Cactus Jack
Senior Member
- Messages
- 484
I've assembled four rear route guitars and thought I'd share a few hands-on observations. The first tip, invest in a Dremel!
Switches: The tops on rear route bodies are thicker than your standard pickguard. However, every switch that I have at my disposal (CRL, Oak Grigsby, Fender, Freeway, Super Switch, half Super Switch) are apparently designed for pickguards. As such, they are not quite long enough to fully engage in all positions, specifically the neck or bridge. To make the switch work properly expect to do some combination of grinding down the switch shaft, open up the switch slot, and often times need to do a bit of Dremel work in the cavity. All four of my bodies have required this.
Grinding the Switch
This is the bit I use to gently open up the switch slot. I've found both ends of the slot benefit from a bit more room. Also, the Freeway switch requires a slight bevel along the entire length of the slot. Due to the hight of the switch this work needs to be done from the top so if you opt to go this route be very careful.
A bit of cavity work to make a wide base Super Switch fit. Not a big deal, but again, prepare to do something.
Your choice of pots needs to be carefully planned out as well. The thickness of the body comes into play, but the challenge I've run into on Strat's is the darn volume pot location. It is routed very close to the sidewall and under a lip just enough to be a PITA. I suggest running your bridge pickup wire first, as the pot also partially blocks the wire hole. Finally, be very careful with long shaft pots. It takes more Dremel work or a bit of routing to use on in the volume location without exerting a lot of force.
Check out the volume pot location, it's not a convenient location:
Overall, I love rear route bodies. Warmoth makes phenomenal parts, but expect to do a bit of custom work on your custom guitar. Hope this helps someone!
Switches: The tops on rear route bodies are thicker than your standard pickguard. However, every switch that I have at my disposal (CRL, Oak Grigsby, Fender, Freeway, Super Switch, half Super Switch) are apparently designed for pickguards. As such, they are not quite long enough to fully engage in all positions, specifically the neck or bridge. To make the switch work properly expect to do some combination of grinding down the switch shaft, open up the switch slot, and often times need to do a bit of Dremel work in the cavity. All four of my bodies have required this.
Grinding the Switch
This is the bit I use to gently open up the switch slot. I've found both ends of the slot benefit from a bit more room. Also, the Freeway switch requires a slight bevel along the entire length of the slot. Due to the hight of the switch this work needs to be done from the top so if you opt to go this route be very careful.
A bit of cavity work to make a wide base Super Switch fit. Not a big deal, but again, prepare to do something.
Your choice of pots needs to be carefully planned out as well. The thickness of the body comes into play, but the challenge I've run into on Strat's is the darn volume pot location. It is routed very close to the sidewall and under a lip just enough to be a PITA. I suggest running your bridge pickup wire first, as the pot also partially blocks the wire hole. Finally, be very careful with long shaft pots. It takes more Dremel work or a bit of routing to use on in the volume location without exerting a lot of force.
Check out the volume pot location, it's not a convenient location:
Overall, I love rear route bodies. Warmoth makes phenomenal parts, but expect to do a bit of custom work on your custom guitar. Hope this helps someone!
