Re-Drilling Filled Tremolo Screw Holes

Jay Menon

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I have a Warmoth body originally drilled by Warmoth for a 6 screw vintage tremolo.

However, someone installed a Floyd Rose and plugged the 6 trem screw holes.

I managed to extricate the Floyd inserts nicely using oversize washers, a nut and a trem post to exert perfect perpendicular traction - and it worked a treat.

I now however, need to re-drill those 6 trem screw holes.

On the basis that they've been plugged - is it likely that a hand held drill will follow the path of least resistance which will of course correspond to the original holes?

Or would I be better off with a pro-job with a drill press...?

Expert opinions deeply appreciated.

PL0GvmT.jpg




 
The correct answer for any hole that needs to be square is drill press, doubly so if it is in any way complicated by any factors. That said, so long as the plug is big enough that the new hole is completely within the plug and doesn't cross any piece boundaries you're probably ok.
 
The way those plugs look, they will definitely cause a hand drill to wander. If you have access to a drill press, or someone with their own who knows how to properly use it, that would be the way to go. I would, myself also create some type of fixture to assure accurate placement of the new holes.
In this case I don't think the path of least resistance would correspond with the original holes, or the position you want the new ones in, without something to guide the drill to the correct position. Hope that helps...
 
I would definitely drill the holes into a hardwood guide then put that on top of the body then drill into the body. Even a drill ln press will want to wander. You might have luck taking small bites with a jobber bit and a center punched starter hole.
 
It looks like someone redrilled the pickguard holes that were also plugged, and that seems to have gone pretty well. I'd definitely use a drill press and try to drill a pilot hole in the center of each dowel, then open them up. If it gets messy, drill them oversize and plug those, then drill correct size holes in the larger plugs.
 
Whatever drill you use will wander a bit because.... the dowels are made of paper birch, pretty soft stuff. Also, the grain of the dowel runs up and down parallel to the drill, instead of at right angles to the drill. It's gonna wander. Period.

You will want to use a drill guide - a steel block, with all the holes sized according to each bit. This will minimize the wandering of the point.
http://bethepro.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Gator-Drill-Guide.jpg
 
The warnings and advice are good, and necessary to follow. That whole mounting arrangement is part of the reason that bridge design has always been such a problem child to set up and maintain tune with. Those screws are difficult to get to align even in new wood, which causes inconsistency in operation. Then, there's so many of them they add friction - also a problem when wanting to return to neutral. If you already have Floyd post holes, you might want to check the dimensions and look at Schaller's inaccurately named "Vintage Strat Replacement" bridge. I think it has the same post centerline dimensions, and is a much better solution. Either that, or look at "Bladerunner" vintage units.
 
Cagey said:
...you might want to check the dimensions and look at Schaller's inaccurately named "Vintage Strat Replacement" bridge. I think it has the same post centerline dimensions, and is a much better solution. Either that, or look at "Bladerunner" vintage units.
That was my first thought too: Find a way to use the existing holes. But looking at the standard Strat Trem specs, I didn't think there was a good choice in that regard. Kevin's suggestion does indeed look promising. The difference in spacing is just over .012", or less than 1/64". Although a significant difference in metal work, even with a drill press most woodworkers would be happy to have tolerances in that range, as a wandering bit will often be off a lot more than that. Might be worth a look.
 
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