Logrinn
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It was time for an update on my 7/8 Tele for a couple of reasons.
The main one being that the body is very light - a chambered alder body - and the neck is very heavy.
That plus the fact that a Tele doesn't have the ergonomics of a Strat means that it had major neck dive issues. Not just standing up - I experienced this while sitting down playing it too.
So I got a new roasted maple neck.
The old one - a bloodwood neck with ebony fretboard - weighed 1014 grams (that's 2.235 lbs) with tuners.
The new roasted maple weighed 776 gram (1.711 lbs), also with tuners.
When I had swapped the neck, the neck dive didn't disappear, but it got much better.
Now it's it mostly apparent when I play standing up and let go of the neck. Sitting down is no longer an issue.
Another reason for swapping the neck is that I wanted to try a neck with another type of frets.
So in my mind I went back in time to my first proper guitar, a Gibson SG, that I've always had fond memories of. That's why I decided to get 6130 frets on the new neck.
As can be seen here, there's quite the difference between the SS6105's on the old neck and the new 6130's on the new neck.
New and old:
Oh, and as a side note ... the body, with pickups and electronis, weighs 1926 grams (4.239 lbs)
And another side note ... I checked the pilot holes on the new neck. They seem to be the same depth and shouldn't cause any problem when you screw on the neck to the body. Especially with some bees wax.
BUT - and this might be important for others out there - I had a contoured heel on that body. That means 2 things. You need to have shorter screws for the two forward screws. BUT the two other screws are the normal length. AND the hole in the body nearest the cutaway and furthest back is also slightly shorter since the contour reaches a bit here as well. That means that this screw hits the "bottom" of the pilot hole when you screw it in. This hole needs to be drillled an additional 2 mm or there about. Then it's no problem screwing in that screw even if it's a roasted maple neck.
I found out the hard way, when I installed the original bloodwood neck (twice as hard as maple). When screwing in this screw the wood cracked because the pilot hole ends about 2 mm before the screw reaches it's limit.
So let that be a warning ccasion14:
Back to my shredding ... :guitarplayer2:
The main one being that the body is very light - a chambered alder body - and the neck is very heavy.
That plus the fact that a Tele doesn't have the ergonomics of a Strat means that it had major neck dive issues. Not just standing up - I experienced this while sitting down playing it too.
So I got a new roasted maple neck.
The old one - a bloodwood neck with ebony fretboard - weighed 1014 grams (that's 2.235 lbs) with tuners.
The new roasted maple weighed 776 gram (1.711 lbs), also with tuners.
When I had swapped the neck, the neck dive didn't disappear, but it got much better.
Now it's it mostly apparent when I play standing up and let go of the neck. Sitting down is no longer an issue.
Another reason for swapping the neck is that I wanted to try a neck with another type of frets.
So in my mind I went back in time to my first proper guitar, a Gibson SG, that I've always had fond memories of. That's why I decided to get 6130 frets on the new neck.
As can be seen here, there's quite the difference between the SS6105's on the old neck and the new 6130's on the new neck.
New and old:
Oh, and as a side note ... the body, with pickups and electronis, weighs 1926 grams (4.239 lbs)
And another side note ... I checked the pilot holes on the new neck. They seem to be the same depth and shouldn't cause any problem when you screw on the neck to the body. Especially with some bees wax.
BUT - and this might be important for others out there - I had a contoured heel on that body. That means 2 things. You need to have shorter screws for the two forward screws. BUT the two other screws are the normal length. AND the hole in the body nearest the cutaway and furthest back is also slightly shorter since the contour reaches a bit here as well. That means that this screw hits the "bottom" of the pilot hole when you screw it in. This hole needs to be drillled an additional 2 mm or there about. Then it's no problem screwing in that screw even if it's a roasted maple neck.
I found out the hard way, when I installed the original bloodwood neck (twice as hard as maple). When screwing in this screw the wood cracked because the pilot hole ends about 2 mm before the screw reaches it's limit.
So let that be a warning ccasion14:
Back to my shredding ... :guitarplayer2: