Question: Warmoth warning not to use water on body?

[jfclouti]

Hello,

I just received a new mahogany body. In the important instructions that came with it was a warning like DO NOT WET-SAND PRIMER and water will swell the wood and create all kinds of other problems, the glue line will open easily if they absorb water etc etc.

Now I am confused. I had planned to stain the body with water based aniline dye directly on the wood, then seal the wood, then put lacquer. My sealer and lacquer are spray bottles so there is no way to color them.

Should I go on anyway and stain the body with water based dye? Anyone didi it? I thought it was a very common way to go.

 

[dmraco]

I have used water based dyes.  It does raise the grain significantly.  You will have to sand again.  I would stick to oil or spraying on the finish of you do not want to sand.

The only use water when finishing maple where I want it deep in the grain and then sand back.

 

[pabloman]

You'd more than likely be ok. I've done it, but I didn't manufacture you're body and I'm not providing warranty. I'd say check with Warmoth. I will say staining uses much less water than wet sanding. There's also the extended exposure of standing water when wet sanding.

 

[Cagey]

What kind of dye is it? Some of them can be thinned with other than water. For instance, Transtint or Colortone dyes don't care if you use water, alcohol or even acetone to thin them, and the volatile solvents won't raise the grain on your wood. Another thing you can do is "pre-raise" the grain by lightly spraying water on the wood, letting it dry, then sanding it back to smooth again. That way it won't react to a water-based dye as much, if at all.

But, Mahogany is a pretty open-grained wood, so I wouldn't want to wet sand primer on it. Too much water on a wood too eager to soak it up. Besides, you shouldn't need to wet sand at that stage anyway. If you're grinding away with anything finer than a 320 grit, you're wasting your time. You're already at the point where you should be playing with color coats. If it looks like it needs more sanding or you can still see grain lines, you probably should have spent more time with the grain filler. Mahogany and Swamp Ash are both a bitch that way. You may need to go 3 rounds with the stuff.

Edit: Don't use rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy - it has water in it. You want denatured alcohol from the hardware.

 

[line6man]

I just received a new mahogany body. In the important instructions that came with it was a warning like DO NOT WET-SAND PRIMER and water will swell the wood and create all kinds of other problems, the glue line will open easily if they absorb water etc etc.

They probably say that because their customer base consists primarily of DIY'ers that may not have the experience to do the job right. There is no rule that says you can't. Just be advised that you are taking a risk.

 

[Ace Flibble]

Alcohol-based dye or stain is the way to go. I can't think of any time I would use a water-based stain with a guitar other than maybe, maybe using water to thin out ink for a flame maple top.
You didn't mention filling the grain in any way; if you're happy with or want a textured finish, look up Wudtone's finishing products, as they specify which ones work best with mahogany.

 

[bagman67]

I would be unlikely to attempt a dye burst job with alcohol or other solvent as the vehicle for the dye, because of the rapid boil-off of the solvent.  Lap marks in that circumstance would suck.  I would go with water for a burst.  But otherwise I'm with you, Ace - the non-grain-raising vehicle would be my preference, also.