QUESTION: Best option for this custom body?

[jdcraven]

Within the builder, it seems if I choose to have "Natural Masked Edges", then on the back I can't have a "Clear (Clean Line)".....and vise versa.
I've emailed Warmoth about it but they have yet to respond back.

(Top has a burst, then what I believe is a masked edge, then a clear back (walnut) OR might be mahogany with a "transparent brown" back. What do you think?


Also, If I choose "Flame maple" from the laminate top dropdown, I'm shown the image on the left. Will I actually receive what's in the image on the right, or will I have to add one to my cart separately? It's hard to tell because the preview in the builder doesn't show nearly the same thing. (See images below)

(The figuring/grain I don't want) vs. (The figuring/grain I DO want)

 

[stratamania]

A natural masked line is an entirely different thing to a laminate line.

https://warmoth.com/guitar-lam-tops

Guitar Paint and Finishes

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warmoth.com

If you order flame maple it will look nothing like the picture on the right because that is flamed Koa, far rarer and more expensive.

 

[JohnnyHardtail]

If you have a "Natural Masked binding" and "Clean Line" it looks like the attached image (using clear back). It reveals the edge of the maple top and also clear on the back. However there is still a burst painted on the front where you see the black outline on the front part of the body.

There is *always* some kind of burst sprayed when you select "Natural Masked binding", so there is a bit of a contradiction if you specify both "Clean Line" and "Natural masked binding". However there are some cases where it allows the back to be painted with a different colour, or finished in clear. I think Warmoth have reduced the number of back finish options on the builder, so maybe they need to confirm what is possible as off-menu options.

Are you specifically looking at the Brown to Clear burst finish?

 

[jdcraven]

If you have a "Natural Masked binding" and "Clean Line" it looks like the attached image (using clear back). It reveals the edge of the maple top and also clear on the back. However there is still a burst painted on the front where you see the black outline on the front part of the body.

There is *always* some kind of burst sprayed when you select "Natural Masked binding", so there is a bit of a contradiction if you specify both "Clean Line" and "Natural masked binding". However there are some cases where it allows the back to be painted with a different colour, or finished in clear. I think Warmoth have reduced the number of back finish options on the builder, so maybe they need to confirm what is possible as off-menu options.

Are you specifically looking at the Brown to Clear burst finish?

Yes, I'm look to get a brown to clear burst finish on top, have a line of some sort, then the back be completely clear.

 

[jdcraven]

A natural masked line is an entirely different thing to a laminate line.

If you order flame maple it will look nothing like the picture on the right because that is flamed Koa, far rarer and more expensive.

So what would you recommend I go with? I’ve been thinking about maybe adding a light laminate accent line. Since this is a pretty pricey body, I want to make sure I’m making the right choices. I’m not too focused on the color of the flamed Koa, just the figuring and grain. It looks a lot like the flamed maple I’ve seen, so my main concern is whether I’ll still get that horizontal figuring I’m after.

 

[Tretgeraet]

(Top has a burst, then what I believe is a masked edge, then a clear back (walnut) OR might be mahogany with a "transparent brown" back. What do you think?

It looks like ash finished in transparent brown to me, tobacco burst for the top seems more fitting than brown to clear. If you choose those, masked edges will be available.

If you are so particular about the figuring, unique choice is the only way to be sure, but it'll be more expensive.

 

[stratamania]

So what would you recommend I go with? I’ve been thinking about maybe adding a light laminate accent line. Since this is a pretty pricey body, I want to make sure I’m making the right choices. I’m not too focused on the color of the flamed Koa, just the figuring and grain. It looks a lot like the flamed maple I’ve seen, so my main concern is whether I’ll still get that horizontal figuring I’m after.

You would not get that figuring by just choosing flame maple in the builder. You would need to look at Unique Choice.

https://warmoth.com/unique-choice-guitar-lam

A top with horizontal figuring like that could easily be over $325 at current prices.

As for accent lines etc, they are subjective choices and I would not want to make a recommendation.

Your only other option than Unique choice would be regularly checking the showcase and ordering something that you like the look of, and ordering if and when something becomes available.

 

[aarontunes]

Yes, I'm look to get a brown to clear burst finish on top, have a line of some sort, then the back be completely clear.

So what would you recommend I go with? I’ve been thinking about maybe adding a light laminate accent line.

Light and dark accent lines typically work best under a Clear finish, with contrasting-colored woods on either side of the line. For example, a Dark Accent line would look good with a Swamp Ash core and maple lam top, finished in Clear (or perhaps a very light-colored finish like Honey Burst.) A Light Accent Line would look nice with Mahogany core wood and a Koa Lam top, finished in Clear. To me, Light and Dark accent lines are very 70's looking. I can't see them and not think "Alembic".

With a Brown to Clear finish over a Flame Maple lam top, I would not recommend them. Instead, I'd suggest Masked Edges and a dark core wood like Mahogany. That will result in a classic and eye-popping (and dare I say it: PRS-ish) look.

Contrast is the key here. To make any of this stuff pop visually you have to create contrast, either by the woods you choose or the finishes you choose.

Caveat: as with all visual arts, BIITEOTB, and YMMV.

 

[aarontunes]

If I choose "Flame maple" from the laminate top dropdown, I'm shown the image on the left. Will I actually receive what's in the image on the right?

(The figuring/grain I don't want) vs. (The figuring/grain I DO want)
View attachment 65699 View attachment 65700

I realize you're just asking about the level of the figuring, so I'll ignore the fact that these are two different species of wood, and answer thusly:

Firstly
The picture on the left is not a photo. It's an artificial representation of a what the guitar body you are ordering might look like, given all the specs you have selected. The picture on the right is an actual photograph of an actual top, under real finish. So it's always gonna look better, no matter the level of the flame.

Secondly
The images of figured maple used by our custom builders were chosen thoughtfully, to keep from "over-promising" what the final results might look like. AKA, nobody is gonna complain if their body happens to arrive looking better than what they saw when they ordered. (And what I just said is not a promise either. If you order a flame maple lam top, you'll get a flame maple lam top - in any one of its myriad forms.)

Thirdly
The term "Flame Maple" encompasses a range of patterns and looks; wide flame, tight flame, straight, curved, etc. If you are particular about the exact pattern or level of flame, you will want to choose a Unique Choice lam top for an additional charge, and add it to your cart separately. Otherwise, you'll get what you get. (Which doesn't mean it won't be nice. It just means you won't get to choose exactly what you want.)

 

[burst]

Top has a burst, then what I believe is a masked edge, then a clear back (walnut) OR might be mahogany with a "transparent brown" back. What do you think?

I don't think anyone has said that you should be able to tell by taking the controls or neck off. If the back was sprayed with a tint and the top wasn't then the cavities should show the wood's natural color and grain. The cavities might be shielded but the neck pocket should be untouched. It's hard to tell how grainy it is. It doesn't look like the natural color of any common core wood. A little too red to be walnut and too brown for mahogany types.

 

[jdcraven]

I don't think anyone has said that you should be able to tell by taking the controls or neck off. If the back was sprayed with a tint and the top wasn't then the cavities should show the wood's natural color and grain. The cavities might be shielded but the neck pocket should be untouched. It's hard to tell how grainy it is. It doesn't look like the natural color of any common core wood. A little too red to be walnut and too brown for mahogany types.

Yeah I completely agree. I'm pretty sure they've sprayed over the wood, so I'm thinking I'll do it with a transparent brown back finish. That's if "Transparent Brown (Burst-Over)" means the whole back will be brown, and not have a burst effect tapering to a clear center.