Proper Length Neck Bolts (Screws)

weritter

Newbie
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Hi, first post but long time observer--built first warmoth 19 years ago and now buildiing another.

Q1:  I want a contoured heel and I also want recessed neck ferrules instead of a neck plate. 
      Will the neck screw lengths Warmoth suggests for the contoured heel (either long side
      or short side) be too long for the recessed neck ferrules--e.g. will they drive up through the fingerboard?

Q2:  If these advertised screws are too long, what would be the proper length and girth for each side and where
      can they be obtained in gold?

Q3:  Why are so few of the Warmoth Showcase items shown without a contoured heel?  Are contoured
        heels rarely purchased?

Thanks in advance,

Bill
 
Q1:  I want a contoured heel and I also want recessed neck ferrules instead of a neck plate.
      Will the neck screw lengths Warmoth suggests for the contoured heel (either long side
      or short side) be too long for the recessed neck ferrules--e.g. will they drive up through the fingerboard?

Obviously depends on depth of ferrule route/ferrule used; do the measurement based on screw length from neckplate and subtract depth of ferrule route/ferrule, you're kind of on your own on that.


Q2:  If these advertised screws are too long, what would be the proper length and girth for each side and where
      can they be obtained in gold?

See answer to question 1, only you know length differentiation, and again you're on your own on an unsupported item like this.

Q3:  Why are so few of the Warmoth Showcase items shown without a contoured heel?  Are contoured
        heels rarely purchased?

Some body styles like the LP/VIP carved tops come with contour heel standard included in price. Gregg could chime in with percentage of orders with that add, but generally you see items in Showcase based on past sales volume...
 
Welcome to the board Bill!

You may want to consider having the neck and body mountng holes not drilled on either a neck or a body so that you can move the actual hole pattern away from the edge of the body a bit. Washer Ferrules can buldge out the wood by being to close to the side of neck heel on a body.

Contoured heeled bodies come and go in the Showcase but yes, most Fender style bodies move without that feature though I never go without it personally!
 
Thanks Jackthehack and Gregg,

What are the sizes of the screws you offer on the contoured heel?  Since I'm on my own on this, does anybody know where I can get the right sized screws in gold?  I know a few cabinet shop suppliers for both domestic and nautical applications, but generally their products are plain steel, stainless, bronze or brass--I have never seen gold.  Gregg--good point on the drilling.  I already have the Warmoth neck, in its second week of drying, with holes pre-drilled--I suppose I can drill new ones closer in.  But I am also about to order the body from Warmoth, and what should I do?  Order it without holes and drill my own when I sink the ferrules?  Maybe I should forget this idea, but I saw one done this way somewhere on the web and it looked so cool.  Also, my Fenders with neckplates as well as my 20-year old Warmoth with the neckplate always get the nitro indented under the neck plate.  Probably from over tightening, but 20-30 years of truss rod adjustments means the neck goes on and off a lot of times, and unless one uses a torque wrench, you are going to get it different degrees of tightness over time.  Also, the neck plate adds another eighth inch or so of thickness to the heel.  This was something I never minded before when the alternative was my old Les Paul that had an even thicker heel, but I have a couple of newer LP double cuts that give better reach than Fenders and I bought a few Agiles last year that give you full access at the 17th fret and above for all scale sweep formations.  Since I want this new Tele to be my most primo axe, I want good access up there.

Thanks again,

Bill
 
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