Please recommend good soldering iron + solder

[Cagey]

Good advice except for the "hotter the better" part. You'll want to stay in the 30-40watt range. You run the risk of burning things up using anything hotter. I know a guy that uses a 90w iron but he's been trained professionally through ESP guitars and doesn't take a whole lot of time holding the iron onto the parts. You can ruin pots with an iron that is too hot.
MULLY

Oddly enough, you run a greater risk of overheating things by using too light an iron, or too fine a tip. You have to leave the iron on the part too long to get it hot enough to flow solder properly, and heat conducts through things to places you may not want it to be. A hotter iron allows you to get on and off the part very quickly, so only the area you're soldering gets hot.

But, there's a limit - you get much above 40 watts for most electrical work, and even being on the part for a short period can get dangerous. Most "gun" type soldering irons are no good for electrical work. They get far too hot.

Not recommended​

Actually, I don't know what those are good for. They're too light for plumbing or bodywork, and too heavy for electrical. But, they've been around forever. Maybe if you were building old-fashioned transformers or something....

 

[mullyman]

Oddly enough, you run a greater risk of overheating things by using too light an iron, or too fine a tip. You have to leave the iron on the part too long to get it hot enough to flow solder properly, and heat conducts through things to places you may not want it to be. A hotter iron allows you to get on and off the part very quickly, so only the area you're soldering gets hot.

I wasn't clear enough in my explanation. I was sending it towards people that may not have much experience with soldering and will tend to hold the iron on something longer than someone that knows what they are doing.
MULLY :headbang:

 

[jay4321]

That Weller looks about right. It's got to have a stand, I know that for sure. 35w seems consistent with what I'm hearing that I'm supposed to want.

 

[Alfang]

Ok, ya'll  can't be changing your rules in the middle of a thread, this many watts for noobies and this many for pros.

We're not talking jumping motorcycles the length of a football field here, we're talking about soldering, I can show anyone here how to solder in 5 minutes, using a 40-50-60 whatever watts you got iron.  Those of you that tell some new guy to go buy a 25 watt iron to solder to pots are not doing him any favors.  If anyone fries a pot using a 50 watt iron, too bad, buy a new pot, they're cheap, and pay attention next time.

As soon as the solder puddles, remove heat.  You guys are making this way too hard, I dont get why a new guy will hold heat on longer

 

[Cagey]

I've never been able to find a use for a 25 watt iron. They just don't get hot enough and then they cool off almost immediately when you touch them to something. Especially the ones with the conical tips. It's almost as if the manufacturers only make them so they can sell the uniitiated two irons - one to make them fight every joint and ruin a high percentage of parts, then one that's actually useful.

 

[mullyman]

Ok, ya'll  can't be changing your rules in the middle of a thread, this many watts for noobies and this many for pros.

We're not talking jumping motorcycles the length of a football field here, we're talking about soldering, I can show anyone here how to solder in 5 minutes, using a 40-50-60 whatever watts you got iron.  Those of you that tell some new guy to go buy a 25 watt iron to solder to pots are not doing him any favors.  If anyone fries a pot using a 50 watt iron, too bad, buy a new pot, they're cheap, and pay attention next time.

As soon as the solder puddles, remove heat.  You guys are making this way too hard, I dont get why a new guy will hold heat on longer

No, soldering isn't exactly brain surgery but for someone that has never done it, if they come up against a pot that the solder just won't stick to, they tend to hold it on there too long. And hey, if I'm not mistaken, even Dan Erleweine suggests not going over 40w for a soldering iron. I usually don't argue with people like him.
MULLY

 

[Dan025]

Ok, ya'll  can't be changing your rules in the middle of a thread, this many watts for noobies and this many for pros.

We're not talking jumping motorcycles the length of a football field here, we're talking about soldering, I can show anyone here how to solder in 5 minutes, using a 40-50-60 whatever watts you got iron.  Those of you that tell some new guy to go buy a 25 watt iron to solder to pots are not doing him any favors.  If anyone fries a pot using a 50 watt iron, too bad, buy a new pot, they're cheap, and pay attention next time.

As soon as the solder puddles, remove heat.  You guys are making this way too hard, I dont get why a new guy will hold heat on longer

No, soldering isn't exactly brain surgery but for someone that has never done it, if they come up against a pot that the solder just won't stick to, they tend to hold it on there too long. And hey, if I'm not mistaken, even Dan Erleweine suggests not going over 40w for a soldering iron. I usually don't argue with people like him.
MULLY

well i have done more damage to pots with irons that are too small that irons that are too big. the longer it takes too heat the area you want the more of that heat disipates into the areas you dont want. i think the hotter the better, as long as you clean the tip on a moist sponge frequently.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I guess I am the only one that can make a 25 W soldering iron work.  I guess I'll keep quiet about it from here on out because there appears to be some strong opinions about it.  I personally have reservations about working on circuit boards with a 40 watt blazing away, but perhaps I need to refine my skills.

On the other hand, the original post was asking for a recommendation for an iron, and the variable wattage Weller with the stand is not a bad recommendation for the reasons I gave.  Yeah it is a bit pricey, but it is a buy once purchase.  Do it right the first time and then you don't have to think about it again.
Patrick

 

[Dan025]

I guess I am the only one that can make a 25 W soldering iron work.  I guess I'll keep quiet about it from here on out because there appears to be some strong opinions about it.  I personally have reservations about working on circuit boards with a 40 watt blazing away, but perhaps I need to refine my skills.

On the other hand, the original post was asking for a recommendation for an iron, and the variable wattage Weller with the stand is not a bad recommendation for the reasons I gave.  Yeah it is a bit pricey, but it is a buy once purchase.  Do it right the first time and then you don't have to think about it again.
Patrick

im not saying i cant use a 25 watt iron, but as a beginner trying to use one on a pot it took sooo long to get the solder to stick that the cheap stock pots in my factory guitars couldnt take it. but a hot iron can be tricky too, if the solder gets too hot and becomes all nasty looking on the tip you wont have any luck either.

 

[reluctant-builder]

Maybe it's a foul to post to this long dormant thread, but I had a pertinent remark, anyway. I can attest to being an ignorant solderer and having not the foggiest idea of how to effectively surmount the task, therefore applying way, way too much heat.

Last time I soldered was a long while back, but I wound up burning the tip of the insulation on one of my wires by overheating the wire. Thankfully, that seems to have been the only damage; my Strat still plays perfectly well.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

Good advice except for the "hotter the better" part. You'll want to stay in the 30-40watt range. You run the risk of burning things up using anything hotter. I know a guy that uses a 90w iron but he's been trained professionally through ESP guitars and doesn't take a whole lot of time holding the iron onto the parts. You can ruin pots with an iron that is too hot.
MULLY

Oddly enough, you run a greater risk of overheating things by using too light an iron, or too fine a tip. You have to leave the iron on the part too long to get it hot enough to flow solder properly, and heat conducts through things to places you may not want it to be. A hotter iron allows you to get on and off the part very quickly, so only the area you're soldering gets hot.

But, there's a limit - you get much above 40 watts for most electrical work, and even being on the part for a short period can get dangerous. Most "gun" type soldering irons are no good for electrical work. They get far too hot.

Not recommended​

Actually, I don't know what those are good for. They're too light for plumbing or bodywork, and too heavy for electrical. But, they've been around forever. Maybe if you were building old-fashioned transformers or something....

These things are great, you put a NiCh attachment on it, let it glow, and you can cut foam, plastic tubing, plastic rope.  A million and one uses.  Except soldering, they are next to worthless for doing anything like that with any finesse.
Patrick