On/Off Switch Wiring Question...

Poppy

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Planning to wire up a passive stereo bass, with each pickup having individual outputs (one ring/ one tip). I want to use the neck volume knob as a push/push kill switch, but would also like to wire in an LED, which would require a TPDT to keep the voltage separate.
Is it possible to use the ground wire as the disconnect, rather than the pickup hot wires, or would this cause issues? Would losing the ground cause static at no volume?
Thanks for your input...
 
HI there,

could you provide a drawing showing what you're thinking of? Also - kill switches (at least in guitar land) are momentary - don't think you can get one wired to a POT. Is this your intent?

...Having some trouble visualizing what you're looking for.
 
Sorry, no drawing yet. Basically, I'm looking to wire an on/off switch on a push pot to kill the output completely while it's not being played, rather than just turning down the volume. Just need to know if I can do this by breaking the ground circuit, or do I have to break the hot side to not cause hum or other noise...?
 
I would say you are better off with such a switch on the hot wire. Not having a ground is not a great idea.
 
Typical kill switches work buy just shorting the hot and ground together, usually just before they head out of the output jack. Naturally, this only works with passive electronics. If you're not planning active in this build, then that should work just fine.
 
The Kill switch is wired to the output jack along with the regular hot and ground, so you have 2 hots 2 grounds. One set is wired to your always on kill switch so when engaged shunts the signal to ground. no noise.
 
Thanks for your replies, much appreciated. Kill switch may not be the correct terminology... but essentially just an on/off switch to use to shut off the output to the jack. So at the end of a live set, per say, I can just flip (push) a switch to shut off the outgoing signal, rather than turn down the volume jobs. Why you say? Just to be different, and it will work for me.
I am planning to set this up by using a push/ push volume pot as the on/off switch. Since I will be wiring this bass stereo, with the two pickups each going to its own side of a stereo output jack, I will just use the separate poles of the switch for the two pickups, one pup on one bank, the other pup on the 2nd bank. My dilemma was that I wanted to also include an LED to light up when the signal was hot, but that would require a third pole on the switch, as to keep the voltage out of the passive system. But, there are no TPDT pots that I can find. I was hoping to hear that breaking the ground circuit would be acceptable, because that would only require one pole set on a switch and would work. But, as Stratamania said, I don't need to remove the ground circuit.
So, I will either write it without an LED, or use a TPDT mini toggle, rather than the push pot.
But I need to investigate this ground short further...
 
Thanks for your replies, much appreciated. Kill switch may not be the correct terminology... but essentially just an on/off switch to use to shut off the output to the jack. So at the end of a live set, per say, I can just flip (push) a switch to shut off the outgoing signal, rather than turn down the volume jobs. Why you say? Just to be different, and it will work for me.
I am planning to set this up by using a push/ push volume pot as the on/off switch. Since I will be wiring this bass stereo, with the two pickups each going to its own side of a stereo output jack, I will just use the separate poles of the switch for the two pickups, one pup on one bank, the other pup on the 2nd bank. My dilemma was that I wanted to also include an LED to light up when the signal was hot, but that would require a third pole on the switch, as to keep the voltage out of the passive system. But, there are no TPDT pots that I can find. I was hoping to hear that breaking the ground circuit would be acceptable, because that would only require one pole set on a switch and would work. But, as Stratamania said, I don't need to remove the ground circuit.
So, I will either write it without an LED, or use a TPDT mini toggle, rather than the push pot.
But I need to investigate this ground short further...
Then wire it per the diagram, but use an on/ off switch not a momentary. Solved. Boom.
 
Not quite - he's running stereo and wants an on LED as well. From the 10,000 ft view he needs a 3PDT switch for that.

However - once you have that diagram to share, we may be able to suggest something.
 
Not quite - he's running stereo and wants an on LED as well. From the 10,000 ft view he needs a 3PDT switch for that.

However - once you have that diagram to share, we may be able to suggest something.
Sorry, I didn't get that!
 
There are cables that have an on off switch built in, maybe that would work. Then just a indicator LED wired in series with input hot. Anything else is above my pay grade.

 
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Kill switch may not be the correct terminology... but essentially just an on/off switch to use to shut off the output to the jack.

It is not, and my earlier remark was based on it being a simple on-off switch. (Perhaps edit the thread title so as not to cause further confusion)

Can we step back a bit and could you describe fully the wiring you intend without on-off switch(es)
Do you intend to be able to be able to switch one or both pickups on and off individually?

For the LEDs, we can then look at that separately, if needed at all.

There are 4PDT switches available even as a push-pull e.g. Fender S1 pots. If you only require three poles, you can just leave one of the poles not wired.
 
Thanks friend, title edited. My apologies to all for the confusion.
I don't know how to describe my intended setup without including the switches, but my intent is this (and I'll try to post up a sketch this weekend):

•2 Duncan NYC soapbars ran passive
•Each wired with its own mini for series/split/para
•Each with its own volume and tone pot
•Neck volume knob would be a push/push to act as the simple on/off switch for both pickups simultaneously. Push bass is live, push it is dead.
•Bridge volume knob will also be a push/push that will switch the output from mono to stereo, using a stereo jack. (When I say stereo, I simply mean each pickup with its own individual output to run into 2 separate amps/DIs). Bridge pickup is wired to output tip, neck wired to switch, with the output alternating between ring and tip by the switch. (I need the ability to run both mono and stereo for different scenarios). Push its mono, push its stereo.
•I would like to have an LED on both push switches, one to light up when the bass has a live output (neck pot), one to light up when it is in stereo mode (bridge pot).
•The stereo push switch is not an issue, as it will only use one pole side of the switch, the other side used for the LED.
But the neck on/off switch will need both poles for the pickups, so I can't figure out how to get a 3rd pole set for the LED... Unless I parallel off the signal to a hidden mini switch inside the cavity for the LED, or find a TPDT pot as you mentioned.

Sorry for the long post, and Thank You for the help.
 
Thanks Stratamania, it looks like the S1 might just be the answer to my dilemma. Will be a little tricky to mount in a rear cavity, as it appears to be a pretty short shaft, but we'll make it work.
 
Or use a 4PDT toggle.

Have you considered also running two stereo output jacks, where if only one is used it defaults to mono output and when both are in use it gives "stereo"?

Check out something like a Rickenbacker 4003 bass wiring, as a starting point. I am guessing, but it may be all you need rather than reinventing the wheel altogether.

If the switch to make the bass for both pickups is to give no output at all, that perhaps could be described as a master on—off switch.
 
Again thanks for the input and ideas. I used to play a 4001 Rick, and I did consider that. But I can't do anything the easy way.
 
Your wiring is too difficult and it is upsetting me! I mean if this isn't resolved by X-mas, how can I enjoy a hot buttered rum?
 
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What do you need an led for? If you want light then just set up a different independent circuit. Either way the miniswitch is the way to go.
 
What do you need an led for? If you want light then just set up a different independent circuit. Either way the miniswitch is the way to go.
I may be wrong but for led a 9v will be required.
 
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