Nitro finish on neck pocket and bottom of Neck

[dmraco]

I am getting ready to spray a nitro finish on my body and neck.  My question is with such tight tolerances, if there is any nitro build up the neck or pocket it will not fit together.  Sould I simply mask off the area?

I would assume these would need some "protection" so I am thinking un-mask for the last coat or two. 

Thoughts?  what it typical protocol.

 

[jackthehack]

I never mask the pocket or neck butt and have never had an issue. More likely to have one using thicker coats of poly finish I'd think.

 

[Tonar8352]

I agree with Jack.  You do have to be careful putting a neck into the pocket with lacquer because it will chip easily.  I like the fit really tight so some times I might have to lightly sand the edge of the neck pocket.  I use a drumstick with a sanding sponge wrapped around it to get in the rounded corners of the pocket.  Be very careful not to come up on the surface of the guitar and sand away color.

I also try to avoid putting finished necks and bodies together and apart.  Put the neck in when it is ready to stay in,  bolt it down and leave it alone.  This is easiest with the Vintage Modern and Warmoth Customs over the Total Vntage because the necks can be adjusted in place.

 

[jackthehack]

To further clarify, although I spray the neck heels completely I never aim into the pocket in the body, but you will get a fair amount of overspray in there anyway.

"I also try to avoid putting finished necks and bodies together and apart. "

+1; if you DO have to take it apart later, you may get a place or two where the finish lifts from the neck heel; I've been lucky and it;s never done this where it shows after reseating/bolting down the neck again, but that's possible.

 

[dmraco]

Thanks.  I also only plan on putting it together ONCE!  I just assumed that the Nitro lacquer would build up.  I searched the board and most people talk about using 10-12 coats of the stuff...3 cans for 1 guitar and neck.

This is my 1st time with nitro and I am trying to avoid MAJOR sanding for the reason TONAR brings up.

One other thought...on the neck I masked off the ebony fingerboard.  Will the nitro leave a small "ridge" when I taje off the tape?  I assume this can just be knowcked down with some careful sanding.

 

[vanhagar]

The nitro will leave a small edge at the fret board, It sands very easily with at least 600 grit, then polish it. I put at least 12 coats of nitro on my neck without masking the butt, and like Jack mentioned I didn't shoot directly at the butt or neck pocket to lessen the build up and the neck and body fit perfectly. Use a good masking tape like the green or blue 3m stuff.

 

[-CB-]

Nitro, even fairly cured, will still gas-off quite a bit.  Put two pieces together, both gassing off... and pretty soon the nitro becomes a sort of glue.

To avoid the stickies, once you're really really done with the finish, just wax the neck and pocket.  Later, you'll have to clean them if you decide to refinish, but naphtha does a good job of cleaning it.

 

[dmraco]

Nitro, even fairly cured, will still gas-off quite a bit.  Put two pieces together, both gassing off... and pretty soon the nitro becomes a sort of glue.

To avoid the stickies, once you're really really done with the finish, just wax the neck and pocket.  Later, you'll have to clean them if you decide to refinish, but naphtha does a good job of cleaning it.

should I wait for a period of time before putting it together??

 

[jackthehack]

Nitro, even fairly cured, will still gas-off quite a bit.  Put two pieces together, both gassing off... and pretty soon the nitro becomes a sort of glue.

To avoid the stickies, once you're really really done with the finish, just wax the neck and pocket.  Later, you'll have to clean them if you decide to refinish, but naphtha does a good job of cleaning it.

should I wait for a period of time before putting it together??

Technically, yes, but it can be hard to do with your first dozen Warmoths or so.

 

[dmraco]

[/quote]

Technically, yes, but it can be hard to do with your first dozen Warmoths or so.
[/quote]

I know...its killing me looking at the pieces.  The fact that I can post to the thread helps pass the time.

I was reading the nitro instructions...1-2 hours between coats!!!!  THIS WILL TAKE ALL DAY! 

what if I let a coat dry longer...say 8 hours...can I keep applying the next day or will their be adheasion problems like with automotive paint??

 

[Tonar8352]

what if I let a coat dry longer...say 8 hours...can I keep applying the next day or will their be adheasion problems like with automotive paint??

Your fine, I go weeks sometimes before I go get around to putting on final coats because I get involved with to many things at once or I spend to much time having fun here!

 

[-CB-]

8 hours?  brother... think more in terms of 8 weeks, and even then adhesion will be an issue.  nitro gasses off for years.....

 

[dmraco]

since I have 3 cans of nitro, I am considering using a can day, letting completely dry, sanding  to smooth any possible orange peel, and repeating with the other two cans over the next few weeks.


does this sound OK???

 

[GUNSNGUITARS]

I have read so many things. No more than 3 coats a day,  no more than 4 coats a day, shoot all 12 coats one hour apart. I don't think there is a worng way of doing it, but I would tend to think 3-4 coats and letting it cure over night would be better than doing it all at once. It would take forever to harden all the way.  Also I think I mentioned it to you,  I used spray cans on the first project I did.  It is a much rougher surface that needs a little more sanding. That's why I think you'd be better to shoot 3-4 coats and let it cure over night, then level sand before your next coats. If you wait till the end you will have a hard time getting the level surface your after. 

The project I'm working on now, I have level sanded twice already and I'm to the point where I almost have a perfectly level surface already with 5-6 coats of clear to go!!

 

[Watershed]

I personally think you may want to mask off the neck pocket, even if just as a preventative measure.
Perhaps just after the color and before the clear.

You can read my proclamation of stupidity right here:
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=4527.0
I was using aerosol cans. 

Also, I was doing a Metallic finish and buggered it up (drips) a few times, causing me to have to sand it level again and re-spray.  Bad tip on a can of clear perhaps, because the clear dripped and melted into the color.  Personal note:  I like the re-ranch tips WAY better than the tips that come with the Stew Mac clear.  All of this amounted to a decent amount of buildup in the neck pocket.  At first, I could not even get the neck in the pocket.  After sanding I could get it in, but chipped it when taking it out. 

I completely agree with "I also try to avoid putting finished necks and bodies together and apart."

I'm doing a Korina Soloist right now and will personally mask off the pocket.
Right now though, I am gaining respect for the pores in Black Korina and their ability to absorb a seemingly endless amount of Stew Mac waterbase grain filler.

James

 

[dmraco]

thanks James...I read your post which led me to post mine..

I too am doing to Kornia soloist on another build...however this one I am having WARMOTH finish...RED dye burl maple with a trans red korina body...

 

[jackthehack]

since I have 3 cans of nitro, I am considering using a can day, letting completely dry, sanding  to smooth any possible orange peel, and repeating with the other two cans over the next few weeks.


does this sound OK???

Nope. Even under the most ideal conditions you'll be unlikely to get more than a couple of light coats on a day. Just because it feels dry to the touch does NOT mean that it's actually dry. If you continue to spray coats over lacquer that really isn't dry it may mung all up when you try to wet sand or result in other equally nasty issues.

You can't rush finishing with lacquer, it always results in a mess of some sort.

 

[dmraco]

I got three coats on today...the can (Stew-mac No.3881) states 24 hours before level sanding and 12-16 days for final sanding and buffing. 

After using the 1st can is seems fairly smooth.  What grain sandpaper would you use??  I think 1000 would do the job well but I do not want to make it so smooth the next coat will not stick.

Sorry if i am asking a lot of questions...this is way different than automotive paint!!!

 

[-CB-]

since I have 3 cans of nitro, I am considering using a can day, letting completely dry, sanding  to smooth any possible orange peel, and repeating with the other two cans over the next few weeks.


does this sound OK???

No

 

[dmraco]

since I have 3 cans of nitro, I am considering using a can day, letting completely dry, sanding  to smooth any possible orange peel, and repeating with the other two cans over the next few weeks.


does this sound OK???

No

can you elaborate or give me some suggestions??  Thanks