New Build Considerations

[LLL]

Greets,

Thinking about doing a new Warmoth build, but have a few concerns:

1. Understand that things take longer nowadays; are we talking a 3 month wait for a custom order now?
2. If I order a Floyd Rose *Original* from Warmoth, will I have any issues with a Warmoth body using a recessed Floyd rout?
3. I assume the "Floyd Rose Angled Pocket" is for non-recessed Floyd rout? Explain
4. Does Warmoth sell the special sized screws for the Custom Contoured Heel option?
5. What's the difference between an R3 and R4 Floyd Rose nut? Is there that much of a width difference? I prefer 1 11/16" nut width.

And, here's some clips I've whipped up showing some guitar genres I like; IIRC there's a Warmoth part or two in there somewhere:

Dokken - Tooth & Nail Solo
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-ax6-tooth-nail-solo?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Steve Morse Band - The Road Home
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-smb-the-road-home-14lufs?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Whitesnake - Is This Love Solo
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-itl-solo-test?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Ode To A Rat - Led Zep tune clone, using ProCo RAT
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-ode-to-a-rat?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Hair O' The Rat (That Bit You) - my own compilation, no bass - using ProCo RAT
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-hair-o-the-rat-that-bit-you?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]


Thanks

 

[rauchman]

Greets,

Thinking about doing a new Warmoth build, but have a few concerns:

1. Understand that things take longer nowadays; are we talking a 3 month wait for a custom order now? - Don't know
2. If I order a Floyd Rose *Original* from Warmoth, will I have any issues with a Warmoth body using a recessed Floyd rout? - You should be ok
3. I assume the "Floyd Rose Angled Pocket" is for non-recessed Floyd rout? Explain - I believe the Angled Pocket refers to the neck heel pocket, where the angle of the route will be slightly pitched down, allowing the height of the FR to align correctly
4. Does Warmoth sell the special sized screws for the Custom Contoured Heel option?
5. What's the difference between an R3 and R4 Floyd Rose nut? Is there that much of a width difference? I prefer 1 11/16" nut width. - Both the R3 and R4 fit the 1 11/16" width, the difference is the string spacing.  The R3 has string spacing just slightly wider of the R2 (1 5/8" nut width spacing).  The R4 has the string spacing further out to the edge.

 

[phatstats]

Greets,

Thinking about doing a new Warmoth build, but have a few concerns:

1. Understand that things take longer nowadays; are we talking a 3 month wait for a custom order now?
2. If I order a Floyd Rose *Original* from Warmoth, will I have any issues with a Warmoth body using a recessed Floyd rout?
3. I assume the "Floyd Rose Angled Pocket" is for non-recessed Floyd rout? Explain
4. Does Warmoth sell the special sized screws for the Custom Contoured Heel option?
5. What's the difference between an R3 and R4 Floyd Rose nut? Is there that much of a width difference? I prefer 1 11/16" nut width.

And, here's some clips I've whipped up showing some guitar genres I like; IIRC there's a Warmoth part or two in there somewhere:

Dokken - Tooth & Nail Solo
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-ax6-tooth-nail-solo?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Steve Morse Band - The Road Home
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-smb-the-road-home-14lufs?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Whitesnake - Is This Love Solo
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-itl-solo-test?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Ode To A Rat - Led Zep tune clone, using ProCo RAT
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-ode-to-a-rat?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]

Hair O' The Rat (That Bit You) - my own compilation, no bass - using ProCo RAT
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/lefty-lounge-lizard/lll-a6x-hair-o-the-rat-that-bit-you?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing[/soundcloud]


Thanks

1. I placed an order, no finishing on neck nor body, and was quoted end of January or first week of February at latest when I placed it in early December. It is now March; still no parts. I may be the odd-ball build but I was told until mid January that it was on-schedule, and then suddenly it was off schedule by a month or two a week after they originally said I would be receiving it in mid Feb, so I would not trust their build quote times to be honest if that's a priority for you.
2. The Warmoth body route as I understand it will fit recessed FROs and like-dimensional tremolos. This means no "pros" (e.g., FR pro) due to the fact that the recession needs to be deeper. The only caveat is you can, selectively, fit some other tremolos in there which do not require a fixed post spacing. For instance, the Gotoh 1996T is fractionally larger than the FRO with a wider string spacing, but as I understand, will still fit (or at least, I hope it will, because I bought one ) due to the fact that the Gotoh 1996T is "open" on one side of the tremolo (and therefore, is a little bit more flexible). The caveat is that the allen screws in the back of the tremolo might possibly not fit, but that's an easy fix (just buy shorter ones).
3. I believe your insight re: body mounted FR is correct, but I don't know more than this. Unclear why you would want a non-floating, body-mounted FR tremolo, so I didn't even consider these options or give them any thought.
4. Yes. If you search around the website, you will find them. I believe one of the screws is shorter than the other 3, if I'm not mistaken. The caveat is that the screws do not sit flush on the mounting plate, due to the fact that the mounting plate is not flush with the body, yet the screws are still inserted perpendicular to the neck. Personally, I will overcome this by using ferrules, which I have seen several users on this site do with great success.
5. The R4 will give you fractionally wider string spacing https://www.wdmusic.com/media/images/floyd_chart.jpg (0.1mm). The nut itself is identical in width. Don't think you're going to notice a .1mm difference in string spacing, but I haven't tried. I think you're more likely to notice the radius difference, though again, I haven't tried an R4. However, a 16" radius feels markedly different to me than a 12" radius, so I'd expect a 12" vs 10" would be at least discernable as well.

 

[LLL]

Thanks - also, does Warmoth paint headstock faces anymore? Don't see the option on the neck builder.

 

[stratamania]

Thanks - also, does Warmoth paint headstock faces anymore? Don't see the option on the neck builder.

Yes you need to request it in the additional notes when placing an order and that you accept the upcharge.

 

[stratamania]

See in red...

Greets,

Thinking about doing a new Warmoth build, but have a few concerns:

1. Understand that things take longer nowadays; are we talking a 3 month wait for a custom order now? - Don't know
2. If I order a Floyd Rose *Original* from Warmoth, will I have any issues with a Warmoth body using a recessed Floyd rout? - You should be ok Yes it is designed for an OFR
3. I assume the "Floyd Rose Angled Pocket" is for non-recessed Floyd rout? Explain - I believe the Angled Pocket refers to the neck heel pocket, where the angle of the route will be slightly pitched down, allowing the height of the FR to align correctlyIt is the neck pocket that is angled so that things align without a recess being used.
4. Does Warmoth sell the special sized screws for the Custom Contoured Heel option? Yes
5. What's the difference between an R3 and R4 Floyd Rose nut? Is there that much of a width difference? I prefer 1 11/16" nut width. - Both the R3 and R4 fit the 1 11/16" width, the difference is the string spacing.  The R3 has string spacing just slightly wider of the R2 (1 5/8" nut width spacing).  The R4 has the string spacing further out to the edge.

 

[stratamania]

2. The Warmoth body route as I understand it will fit recessed FROs and like-dimensional tremolos. This means no "pros" (e.g., FR pro) due to the fact that the recession needs to be deeper. The only caveat is you can, selectively, fit some other tremolos in there which do not require a fixed post spacing. For instance, the Gotoh 1996T is fractionally larger than the FRO with a wider string spacing, but as I understand, will still fit (or at least, I hope it will, because I bought one ) due to the fact that the Gotoh 1996T is "open" on one side of the tremolo (and therefore, is a little bit more flexible). The caveat is that the allen screws in the back of the tremolo might possibly not fit, but that's an easy fix (just buy shorter ones).

A number of forum users have used the Gotoh 1996T but ask Warmoth to install a set of Floyd Rose inserts https://warmoth.com/index.php/floyd-stud and use them instead of the Gotoh inserts and posts which do not fit the holes Warmoth drill for the OFR.

3. I believe your insight re: body mounted FR is correct, but I don't know more than this. Unclear why you would want a non-floating, body-mounted FR tremolo, so I didn't even consider these options or give them any thought.

Not everyone wants a recessed rout. Some want to deck the Floyd so it is dive only and use a D-Tuna to do drop D etc.

4. Yes. If you search around the website, you will find them. I believe one of the screws is shorter than the other 3, if I'm not mistaken. The caveat is that the screws do not sit flush on the mounting plate, due to the fact that the mounting plate is not flush with the body, yet the screws are still inserted perpendicular to the neck. Personally, I will overcome this by using ferrules, which I have seen several users on this site do with great success.

Personally I don't think the Strat style body mounting holes are positioned where I would prefer to use ferrules if building from scratch. Though it is of course your call.

Two of the screws are shorter for contoured heels.  The mounting plate does sit flush to the body, here is one in use on one of my builds.

Final3 by stratamania, on Flickr

5. The R4 will give you fractionally wider string spacing https://www.wdmusic.com/media/images/floyd_chart.jpg (0.1mm). The nut itself is identical in width. Don't think you're going to notice a .1mm difference in string spacing, but I haven't tried. I think you're more likely to notice the radius difference, though again, I haven't tried an R4. However, a 16" radius feels markedly different to me than a 12" radius, so I'd expect a 12" vs 10" would be at least discernable as well.

Use the R3 unless you like E strings closer to the edge of the board. R3 and R4 are both 10" radius. See the chart at the following link.

https://www.floydrose.com/collections/parts/products/original-locking-nut?variant=30511209490

 

[Rick]

Based on the theme of your music more than bridge choice your pups amp effects and electronics will have a greater effect.

 

[LLL]

4. Yes. If you search around the website, you will find them. I believe one of the screws is shorter than the other 3, if I'm not mistaken. The caveat is that the screws do not sit flush on the mounting plate, due to the fact that the mounting plate is not flush with the body, yet the screws are still inserted perpendicular to the neck. Personally, I will overcome this by using ferrules, which I have seen several users on this site do with great success.

Personally I don't think the Strat style body mounting holes are positioned where I would prefer to use ferrules if building from scratch. Though it is of course your call.

Two of the screws are shorter for contoured heels.  The mounting plate does sit flush to the body, here is one in use on one of my builds.

Final3 by stratamania, on Flickr

Great pic - do you have another pic of the side of that "contoured heel" so the angle shows?

 

[LLL]

3. I believe your insight re: body mounted FR is correct, but I don't know more than this. Unclear why you would want a non-floating, body-mounted FR tremolo, so I didn't even consider these options or give them any thought.

I'm old school with the Floyd. The guitars I played back in the 80s did not have the recessed cutout. Plus decking is a possibility, but that all depends on the angle of the heel here.

 

[LLL]

Based on the theme of your music more than bridge choice your pups amp effects and electronics will have a greater effect.

I'll be putting my 80s Seymour Duncan JB (JBJ labeled) in the bridge with possibly a SD Full Shred neck.

The whole reason for this guitar is to put my poor neglected old JB from the 80s back into circulation instead of collecting dust; building a guitar around a pickup.  :icon_scratch:  :laughing11:

My other favorite Duncan humbuckers are the Custom (have an early 80s) and the Seth Lover.

 

[stratamania]

Great pic - do you have another pic of the side of that "contoured heel" so the angle shows?

Thanks, there is probably one in this build thread. I can always take one if the existing ones are not clear enough.

Metallic Black Cherry Floyd Rose Non-Fine Tuner

If you check out the Welcome to the forum thread in my signature one of the posts has links to the various build threads I have done and a lot of useful stuff.

 

[phatstats]

2. The Warmoth body route as I understand it will fit recessed FROs and like-dimensional tremolos. This means no "pros" (e.g., FR pro) due to the fact that the recession needs to be deeper. The only caveat is you can, selectively, fit some other tremolos in there which do not require a fixed post spacing. For instance, the Gotoh 1996T is fractionally larger than the FRO with a wider string spacing, but as I understand, will still fit (or at least, I hope it will, because I bought one ) due to the fact that the Gotoh 1996T is "open" on one side of the tremolo (and therefore, is a little bit more flexible). The caveat is that the allen screws in the back of the tremolo might possibly not fit, but that's an easy fix (just buy shorter ones).

A number of forum users have used the Gotoh 1996T but ask Warmoth to install a set of Floyd Rose inserts https://warmoth.com/index.php/floyd-stud and use them instead of the Gotoh inserts and posts which do not fit the holes Warmoth drill for the OFR.

3. I believe your insight re: body mounted FR is correct, but I don't know more than this. Unclear why you would want a non-floating, body-mounted FR tremolo, so I didn't even consider these options or give them any thought.

Not everyone wants a recessed rout. Some want to deck the Floyd so it is dive only and use a D-Tuna to do drop D etc.

4. Yes. If you search around the website, you will find them. I believe one of the screws is shorter than the other 3, if I'm not mistaken. The caveat is that the screws do not sit flush on the mounting plate, due to the fact that the mounting plate is not flush with the body, yet the screws are still inserted perpendicular to the neck. Personally, I will overcome this by using ferrules, which I have seen several users on this site do with great success.

Personally I don't think the Strat style body mounting holes are positioned where I would prefer to use ferrules if building from scratch. Though it is of course your call.

Two of the screws are shorter for contoured heels.  The mounting plate does sit flush to the body, here is one in use on one of my builds.

Final3 by stratamania, on Flickr

5. The R4 will give you fractionally wider string spacing https://www.wdmusic.com/media/images/floyd_chart.jpg (0.1mm). The nut itself is identical in width. Don't think you're going to notice a .1mm difference in string spacing, but I haven't tried. I think you're more likely to notice the radius difference, though again, I haven't tried an R4. However, a 16" radius feels markedly different to me than a 12" radius, so I'd expect a 12" vs 10" would be at least discernable as well.

Use the R3 unless you like E strings closer to the edge of the board. R3 and R4 are both 10" radius. See the chart at the following link.

https://www.floydrose.com/collections/parts/products/original-locking-nut?variant=30511209490

Oh yeah good points; forgot to mention those deets. And I am drilling my own mounting holes for the ferrules so yeah I was gonna come in ~3mm or so on all sides.

 

[rauchman]

2. The Warmoth body route as I understand it will fit recessed FROs and like-dimensional tremolos. This means no "pros" (e.g., FR pro) due to the fact that the recession needs to be deeper. The only caveat is you can, selectively, fit some other tremolos in there which do not require a fixed post spacing. For instance, the Gotoh 1996T is fractionally larger than the FRO with a wider string spacing, but as I understand, will still fit (or at least, I hope it will, because I bought one ) due to the fact that the Gotoh 1996T is "open" on one side of the tremolo (and therefore, is a little bit more flexible). The caveat is that the allen screws in the back of the tremolo might possibly not fit, but that's an easy fix (just buy shorter ones).

A number of forum users have used the Gotoh 1996T but ask Warmoth to install a set of Floyd Rose inserts https://warmoth.com/index.php/floyd-stud and use them instead of the Gotoh inserts and posts which do not fit the holes Warmoth drill for the OFR.

3. I believe your insight re: body mounted FR is correct, but I don't know more than this. Unclear why you would want a non-floating, body-mounted FR tremolo, so I didn't even consider these options or give them any thought.

Not everyone wants a recessed rout. Some want to deck the Floyd so it is dive only and use a D-Tuna to do drop D etc.

4. Yes. If you search around the website, you will find them. I believe one of the screws is shorter than the other 3, if I'm not mistaken. The caveat is that the screws do not sit flush on the mounting plate, due to the fact that the mounting plate is not flush with the body, yet the screws are still inserted perpendicular to the neck. Personally, I will overcome this by using ferrules, which I have seen several users on this site do with great success.

Personally I don't think the Strat style body mounting holes are positioned where I would prefer to use ferrules if building from scratch. Though it is of course your call.

Two of the screws are shorter for contoured heels.  The mounting plate does sit flush to the body, here is one in use on one of my builds.

Final3 by stratamania, on Flickr

5. The R4 will give you fractionally wider string spacing https://www.wdmusic.com/media/images/floyd_chart.jpg (0.1mm). The nut itself is identical in width. Don't think you're going to notice a .1mm difference in string spacing, but I haven't tried. I think you're more likely to notice the radius difference, though again, I haven't tried an R4. However, a 16" radius feels markedly different to me than a 12" radius, so I'd expect a 12" vs 10" would be at least discernable as well.

Use the R3 unless you like E strings closer to the edge of the board. R3 and R4 are both 10" radius. See the chart at the following link.

https://www.floydrose.com/collections/parts/products/original-locking-nut?variant=30511209490

Oh yeah good points; forgot to mention those deets. And I am drilling my own mounting holes for the ferrules so yeah I was gonna come in ~3mm or so on all sides.

I speak from experience here, if you're drilling for ferules, be very very careful on the outer corners of the neck heel.  With the added width of the ferule itself, the overall width of the ferule hole is right on the edge of heel itself.  For sure, use the correct bit, I believe it's called a Forstner bit.

I've done 3 builds now where I modified the neck heel very reminiscent of a Fender Strat Elite.  The first one, I used a neck plate from the Elite.  On the other 2, I used ferules and I wound up taking out the outer corner a smidge.

 

[NedRyerson]

For sure, use the correct bit, I believe it's called a Forstner bit.

Correct, and if one isn't careful, one can build quite a collection of Forstners.

I have three already.  My big workhorse one for hogging out cavities before routing, and a pair of smaller ones for doing rear string-through ferrules.

 

[stratamania]

Oh yeah good points; forgot to mention those deets. And I am drilling my own mounting holes for the ferrules so yeah I was gonna come in ~3mm or so on all sides.

That should do it and I would assume the neck pilot holes would correspond accordingly.  Another detail to mention with positioning the holes would be depending on which Warmoth construction the neck is to avoid anything such as side adjust mechanisms etc.

 

[phatstats]

Oh yeah good points; forgot to mention those deets. And I am drilling my own mounting holes for the ferrules so yeah I was gonna come in ~3mm or so on all sides.

That should do it and I would assume the neck pilot holes would correspond accordingly.  Another detail to mention with positioning the holes would be depending on which Warmoth construction the neck is to avoid anything such as side adjust mechanisms etc.

Absolutely! On this count @LLL the modern tiltbacks headstocks do not have a side adjust.

I think another cautionary note worth considering is Ive read (not on warmoth, but other forums) if you go w roasted maple in the neck, that the screws can strip outta the wood more easily if you plan to detension the strings w any regularity (e.g., tear down builds that you intend to travel with), and the main advisement was to use threaded inserts (e.g., ez loks) in the neck. The caveat is putting the threaded inserts into a roasted maple on the stock holes without splitting the wood was said to be tricky (they end up really close to the edge, which with a wood as brittle as roasted maple, was said to be dangerous), and is therefore a second reason if you go w a roasted neck to consider pulling the mounting holes in a touch from a normal strat. So my build had 2 reasons which kind of went hand in hand to use a a non-stock mounting hole arrangement and the neck ferrules over the stock screw arrangement and a mounting plate.