Need help choosing a neck finish

[rspst14]

I'm looking to order an Arcade neck for a Charvel-style body I have, and I'd like to go with maple on this neck.  I have two Warmoth necks with exotic woods, but the results have been mixed.  I like the feel, look, and tone of goncalo and canary, but they don't seem to be as stable as my finished necks.  I put together a build with a canary neck two years ago, and let the neck sit under tension for six months before sending it out to be Plek-leveled.  It came back absolutely perfect.  18 months later, it has developed a hump in the treble side of the neck.  No matter how I set the action, it still buzzes noticeably in some places.  It's going to have to be replaced or leveled again at some point.  A similar thing happened with a goncalo neck, although it took a lot longer and the problem isn't as bad.  I live in a climate where I experience all four seasons to the fullest, with hot, humid summers and cold, dry winters.  I've done everything I can to keep temperature and humidity stable, but the necks haven't held up too well.  Warped isn't the correct word, but they've definitely shifted in a way my finished Gibson and Fender necks haven't.

I apologize for the long-winded intro, but I suspect I would've gotten a lot of suggestions to go with a raw neck.  I'd like a finish that balances playability with protection for the wood.  I've read through a lot of old threads, and it seems like the satin finishes feel nice but don't offer as much protection.  Would the gloss finish be a better choice?  How much additional protection would I get, and how much am I sacrificing in playability?  Or are there other finishing options that can be done by a third-party that would protect the wood without having a sticky feel to them?  I've never done a custom build with a finished neck, so I'm not sure which option I should choose.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

 

[croquet hoop]

I am not answering your question directly, but are your Warmoth necks Pro or Vintage Modern construction? I am asking this because from what I read, Warmoth Pro necks are super stable so, given the variations in temperature and humidity you are experiencing in your area, a Pro construction may be a better solution to your predicament than a thick finish.

If these necks are Warmoth Pro necks, then I am not sure what to recommend.

 

[rspst14]

Both are pro construction.  I've had better luck with my Gibson necks that have traditional truss rods and finishes. 

 

[Day-mun]

I have heard that the satin nitro finish from Warmoth scratches easily. Dunno why a gloss would give the wood more protection though, -that is a new one to me.

I use Minwax fast-drying polyurethane clear satin on my maple necks from Warmoth. I have tried gloss lacquer and ended up stripping it off and going with the Minwax; I just like the feel and durability better. -Four season environment here as well, so...

Some say poly is hard to work with, but it will behave well if you do. Take your time and apply thin coats. Lots of them. Lightly smooth with 0000 steel wool every fourth or so coat and if the back of the can says "Allow 72 hours before handling for normal use" then for Pete's sake, don't touch the dang thing for at least three days! (-This includes every time you break the re-coat schedule to knock it down with the 0000.)

Good luck

 

[Cagey]

I have heard that the satin nitro finish from Warmoth scratches easily. Dunno why a gloss would give the wood more protection though, -that is a new one to me.

Less friction on a gloss finish, and from Warmoth, the gloss finishes are Polyurethane, which is more durable.

 

[rspst14]

I thought the satin finishes had a faster feel than the gloss finishes? 

 

[Cagey]

They do for some people. For others, it doesn't make a difference. The best ones are the raw versions that have been burnished. But, we're talking about feel, not friction. Sounds counter-intuitive, but the smoother glossy neck actually has more contact with your hand, so if you're the sweaty type, you'll tend to stick to it like a snail sticks to glass. If you're a dry-handed type, there's little or no difference in "stickiness".

In any event, anything that wants to scratch the surface needs a bit of a fight to do its thing, and the satin offers more opportunity for abrasives to bite.