Minwax walnut stain + tru oil finish on tele.
- Thread starter vestige
- Start date
jackthehack
Epic Member
- Messages
- 5,630
Checking out the product info, it's suitable for exterior use on decking. Sounds like it's similar to the Stew-Mac Colortone water based product, but maybe heavier duty.
This is going to set into an extremely hard plastic-like finish after curing/drying and can only be wiped back with a wet cloth PRIOR to drying out.
You're going to need an electric palm sander and a goodly amount of sandpaper to remove.
I quit using this type of product and went to oil based fillers; while they take a lot longer to dry/cure they're much easier to sand back in situations like this.
This is going to set into an extremely hard plastic-like finish after curing/drying and can only be wiped back with a wet cloth PRIOR to drying out.
You're going to need an electric palm sander and a goodly amount of sandpaper to remove.
I quit using this type of product and went to oil based fillers; while they take a lot longer to dry/cure they're much easier to sand back in situations like this.
Are you sure man?
That seems odd considering I can leave the stuff to dry in a cup, come back days later, add a few drops of water and just mix it right up again.
haha dear god I hope it isn't as tough as you describe. I'll update when I've had a chance to do battle with it.
That seems odd considering I can leave the stuff to dry in a cup, come back days later, add a few drops of water and just mix it right up again.
haha dear god I hope it isn't as tough as you describe. I'll update when I've had a chance to do battle with it.
jackthehack
Epic Member
- Messages
- 5,630
vestige said:
??? I never heard of this product before, checked out this page: http://www.intergrain.com.au/woodblend.html
If it is suitable to use on outdoor decking (from that website: "Interior and exterior timbers including decking, flooring and furniture." I'd assume it was like the Stew-Mac product I was referring to, don't quite understand how something suitable for outdoor decking could be re-soluable in water...
HAve you tried to sand it back/wipe it back with water yet?
Cagey said:
Sorry I'm late to the game - I've been sneaking peeks from my iPhone, and I hate typing on it.
So - I like Cagey's idea, but you could also try Ammonia - still toxic, but less so. Infinitely easier to dispose of.
http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/1546/tips-tools/techniques-tools-resources/restoration-workshop-darkening-wood/1
jackthehack said:
I had a layer of the stuff dry on there ready to sand. That came off just fine with water. Really easily actually.
As far as the stuff in the actual pores... The issue I think is that wiping it sn't getting in there. I've been sanding the past 30 mins to an hour but as you can imagine it takes a shitload of sanding to get down far enough. I wonder if I can just do a bit of sanding and then put the ebony timbermate i have over the top...
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 15,478
Here's my walnut Krank n Stein, it was done totally with just Danish oil. No filler what so ever, I just wet sanded with the danish oil with 400 grit for several coats, then switched to 600 grit for several coats. The sanding dust mixed with the oil makes a natural filler of the bodies own dust. Then did several more coats of just oil.
Before
after
Before
after
keeper006
Senior Member
- Messages
- 304
DangerousR6 said:The sanding dust mixed with the oil makes a natural filler of the bodies own dust. Then did several more coats of just oil.
Before
Yeah, that will work with Tru Oil as well. Another sweet ziricote fretboard there Dangerous. Love the ziricote.
ccasion14:
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 15,478
ziricote is awesome stuff... :headbang1:
Some seriously awesome finishes linked above.
That Danish oil one looks so good and sounds so easy... ahh well, I've already gone down the rabbit hole haha.
After removing the so called 'walnut/dark oak' filler from the pores with a brass brush and water, I've grain filled the top again with black timbermate today.
Looks much better, and it's exactly what I was going for, although it is hard to see in the crappy iPhone pictures.
What you can see though is these weird patchy bits. Can you guys shed any light on what's causing it? I thought it was just excess filler but sanding seems to have no effect, and I'm worried that I'll just be sanding through the filler anyway.
Next step is to stain with a minwax water based walnut stain. Do you guys reckon the patches will show through?
I've blown up one of the areas that I'm talking about in the pictures below.
That Danish oil one looks so good and sounds so easy... ahh well, I've already gone down the rabbit hole haha.
After removing the so called 'walnut/dark oak' filler from the pores with a brass brush and water, I've grain filled the top again with black timbermate today.
Looks much better, and it's exactly what I was going for, although it is hard to see in the crappy iPhone pictures.
What you can see though is these weird patchy bits. Can you guys shed any light on what's causing it? I thought it was just excess filler but sanding seems to have no effect, and I'm worried that I'll just be sanding through the filler anyway.
Next step is to stain with a minwax water based walnut stain. Do you guys reckon the patches will show through?
I've blown up one of the areas that I'm talking about in the pictures below.
No, I didn't. I guess that's all it is. But yeah, I had read that only woods like maple and ash needed sealing. Oh well, hopefully when it all gets stained darker it won't be too bad.
Edit: Oh wait, sorry misread what you said. I haven't stained it yet, just put the black grain filler on. The filler is what has brought out the splotchy patches.
Edit: Oh wait, sorry misread what you said. I haven't stained it yet, just put the black grain filler on. The filler is what has brought out the splotchy patches.
Cagey
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 24,425
I see. Well, if that's the case, you probably didn't do yourself any favors by scrubbing on it with a wire brush. You created artificial grain that the filler is finding a home in.
If it was me, I'd get a good sanding block and try to take it back to raw. Don't just use your hand at this point - you'll make the final finish all wavy. Start with a 220, and once it looks even, clean it off with some 320. Seal it with couple/few coats of clear wood sealer or a clear wash coat, lightly sand it smooth again with some 320, then do the filling thing. Walnut has a more open grain, so it may take more than one pass with the filler. Lightly sand between coats.
Filler isn't meant to change the color of the wood, it's to fill in the fine nooks and crannies, so don't be concerned if the high points come out light. The stain will change the color of those.
If it was me, I'd get a good sanding block and try to take it back to raw. Don't just use your hand at this point - you'll make the final finish all wavy. Start with a 220, and once it looks even, clean it off with some 320. Seal it with couple/few coats of clear wood sealer or a clear wash coat, lightly sand it smooth again with some 320, then do the filling thing. Walnut has a more open grain, so it may take more than one pass with the filler. Lightly sand between coats.
Filler isn't meant to change the color of the wood, it's to fill in the fine nooks and crannies, so don't be concerned if the high points come out light. The stain will change the color of those.
Unfortunately that was the only way to get the light/terrible looking filler out.
I guess I'll go back to sanding :sad1: I've been using a cork sanding block the whole time. I tried sanding the dark patches a bit before but it didn't seem to have any effect so I guess I'll really have to get into it.
Cheers for the advice.
I guess I'll go back to sanding :sad1: I've been using a cork sanding block the whole time. I tried sanding the dark patches a bit before but it didn't seem to have any effect so I guess I'll really have to get into it.
Cheers for the advice.
I think I've just spent the last hour, sanding in basically a direct line with 180 grit.
I can see the problem areas as lighter patches when I turn the guitar in the light.
They don't seem to be disappearing at all.
I think that it's time I admitted defeat and sought some professional help...
I can see the problem areas as lighter patches when I turn the guitar in the light.
They don't seem to be disappearing at all.
I think that it's time I admitted defeat and sought some professional help...
Cagey
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 24,425
Or, just be patient.
Finishing guitars is a lot more difficult than it looks. Everybody's gotta try it at least once, though. If nothing else, it puts your mind at ease when you pay somebody else to do it. You realize how much work it is, most of which isn't any fun at all.
Finishing guitars is a lot more difficult than it looks. Everybody's gotta try it at least once, though. If nothing else, it puts your mind at ease when you pay somebody else to do it. You realize how much work it is, most of which isn't any fun at all.
keeper006
Senior Member
- Messages
- 304
Amen to that. It's always easy to tell people who have done it before, because they're the ones who don't ask me how much longer until I'm done when they just gave me the body 5 days ago, or ehy it's taking a few more days when there's a blemish to repair.Cagey said:
