Minwax tung vs Formsby's tung

[LushTone]

So from the research I've done, the difference between these finishes is that one is more a wiping varnish with penetrating oils (Formsby's) and one is a "oil varnish blend" (Minwax tung oil finish).

Does anyone have a favorite tung oil for maple necks (raw Rosewood board in my case) to achieve a "wood feel" finish with moderate luster? I'm sanding up to about 600-800 grit most likely..
Basically I only need protection from normal humidity and low hand sweat. As for appearances I want just a mild amber tint. Appreciate any help!

 

[Rick]

Have you thought about tru oil?

 

[kjt1776]

Strongly recommend you look into and read up on danish oil, can be thinned nicely and provides a good thin but very protective coating and still allows for the natural unfinished wood feel.  you could build up a lot of layers and go gloss but you will get the feel you have described and look with much much less.

 

[AirCap]

The only oils I've used in 40 plus years are Watco Danish oil and TruOil. TruOil is harder, and takes a better shine once you have the finish built up. Watco is easily fixed when dented - sand it a bit, and reapply.

 

[LushTone]

Thanks for the info, danish oil is apparently a tung oil type finish (more of a wiping varnish based on the articles). These articles cleared up the dilemma, so I'm going with the Minwax tung oil (tung oil/varnish blend)

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/how-to-pick-tung-oil-finishes

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths
https://www.rockler.com/learn/tung-oil-finish-for-a-kitchen-table/

 

[kjt1776]

SOmethings to consider, tung oil in most cases is a oil varnish blend as stated above by others.  I myself on a neck like the feel of wood or in other descriptions a satin like natural feel.  Tung oil can be difficult to work with if its your first time using it.  I would recommend practicing with it a bit on its own and with it being thinned so you can understand how it is going to react to your techniques.  In saying that it does after a good curing period, mostly a few weeks to a few months depending on your coatings and enviornment harden nicely and gives a good fast feel and if applied thicker then you like can be brought down with some 0000 steel wool but only after it has fully hardened and cured.  If you are wanting a finish that will cure faster and provide excellent protection as well has a slight darkening or ambering of the wood Danish all day.  Try a few coats thinned with mineral spirits and watch how it soaks into the neck.  Once you see the neck after wiping start to give you some checking spots (spots where the oil is not soaking in but starting to sit on top of the wood) then you know it has soaked up its amount and will start to build finish on the wood surface.  This is where I just keep wiping the spots till no more appear.  Sometimes takes a couple hours.  Then I do one coat, no thining, and wipe on with a cloth, and wipe off with a clean dry cloth after about 20 seconds.  So you are working the neck in sections really.  this is to prevent the finish from building on the surface.  This has worked for me perfectly.  Hope this or some of it helps.

 

[Toulouse_Tuhles]

Sorry to jump in late.
THIS is real tung oil
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/ 
I've used real tung oil on rifle stocks, and pistol grips, and one neck.  Years ago, there was a lady who built up an SG with tung oil that came out pretty nice.  Real tung has no varnish, no poly... no nuthin'.  It takes a while for each coat to dry, and you lightly steel wool with every 4th coat or so.  It will rub out to a nice nice semi gloss.
Its totally UNlike Tru-Oil, Formby, MinWax, Watco, and all the others which are really a form of varnish or poly (with oil).  If it smells like some petroleum distillate, it ain't Tung Oil.
Real Tung oil smells GREAT too, and is a pleasure to apply with the fingers, and wipe with a cloth.