Masked Binding; Natural and Colored

[s1player]

Thank you.

Great idea to use the temp and humidity gauge. I have a couple for monitoring humidity in the house and in my guitar cabinet, but wouldn't have thought to use it during sealing or painting. Great idea. Will do definitely do that.

Thanks.

If I remember correctly, they already thin the stuff for spraying. That could just be the formulation StewMac distributes, for profitability's sake. But, you sorta have to shoot some and see how it behaves to know if it needs to be changed. The formulation makes a difference, as does the temperature, humidity and how you've got your gun/compressor set up.

If after an hour or so it still feels a bit rubbery and doesn't want to sand without loading the hell out of your paper, it's too thick and you need to add some acetone. If it runs/sags too easily, it may be too thin or the temperature may be too low. If the temperature is high, you may need to add some retarder to slow everything down.

It's a feel thing. This is why everybody will tell you to practice. Also, it's handy to have some instrumentation around. A temperature/humidity meter is a wonderful thing, and they're not expensive. For example, Honeywell sells these units...

... for $23. Tells you the temp in F or C, as well as the relative humidity. You gotta know that stuff.

 

[Cagey]

Great idea to use the temp and humidity gauge. I have a couple for monitoring humidity in the house and in my guitar cabinet, but wouldn't have thought to use it during sealing or painting. Great idea. Will do definitely do that.

There's a general rule of thumb when shooting lacquer called "the rule of 65". You don't shoot it if the temperature is below 65 degrees F or the humidity is above 65%. Those are limits, and you don't want to push them. You're better off with higher temps and lower humidities if you can manage to do so. You can compensate with reducers and retarders if you know what you're doing, but best practice is to just put it off until conditions conform.