Amber Dye finish with masked binding

JohnnyHardtail

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If you spec a Wamoth body with an amber dyed maple top and masked binding, must the body be sprayed with an burst-over to define the masked edge?

Most of the dye finish examples on the website show an edge burst, but that's not the look I'm thinking of. The builder has the option for transparent amber back finish *without* a burst-over, which sounds good. I'm just not sure if that option is compatible with masked binding. Can anyone confirm?

I'd like to achieve a masked edge like the first image below, where I have sliced the Warmoth sample image from the website. I'm not sure a masked edge on dyed maple can ever look as clean as this.
 

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I cannot see a reason why a burst over would be needed. It is the masked binding that creates the look rather than the burst over. I have a couple of natural masked binding though not with amber dye, though the lines are clean.

Perhaps ask Warmoth sales to confirm that the paint shop can achieve what you are looking for.

Edit: thinking about it further, after further posts in the thread the dye probably stops short of the tape and the burst over, however small, creates the clean line and hides the gap between the tape and the dye. @JohnnyHardtail thanks for posting this and exploring the minutiae :)
 
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^^ Here is a post that caused me to think a burst-over may be compulsory with masked binding. I'm not sure there is actually a choice here, but it would definitely be useful if there are pics of both options.
 
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Possibly the difference is the way a coloured back versus a clear back is done results in the burst over being needed or not. If the back is clear well there is no burst to burst over.

@Wolff05 do you have any pics of amber dye on a maple top with natural masked binding with a clear back and no burst over?
 
@JohnnyHardtail is correct. A burst is required for Natural Masked Binding. This is the only way to get a clean line, (just the dye line with tape will turn out ragged and the painted burst cleans it up) and it also emphasizes the natural masked line. Here's some images.
 

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@JohnnyHardtail is correct. A burst is required for Natural Masked Binding. This is the only way to get a clean line, (just the dye line with tape will turn out ragged and the painted burst cleans it up) and it also emphasizes the natural masked line. Here's some images.


@Wolff05 many thanks for taking the time to help us out. Presumably this applies to dyed tops rather than those that have a burst themselves?

For the dyed top and transparent amber top example shown from the builder, in the first post of this thread, would imply there is an error in the options of the builder in this case.
 
@Wolff05 many thanks for taking the time to help us out. Presumably this applies to dyed tops rather than those that have a burst themselves?

For the dyed top and transparent amber top example shown from the builder, in the first post of this thread, would imply there is an error in the options of the builder in this case.
@stratamania correct, this only applies to dyed tops.

I don't know if it's even possible to explain the back color options and programming in the builder without typing a 30 page paper. The shortest summary I can make is : Originally every back color had 2 options in the builder, either (Burst Over) or (Clean Line). This causes issues when someone wants natural masked binding or orders a clean line with a dye finish that has a burst as part of its color (ie aqua marine dye or tigers eye). The logic to tie the two together (binding+back+top color) isn't programmed. It also causes issues when someone wants a dragon burst with a black burst over. There is a loss in interpretation between burst over for us and for the customer. In some instances it just means there is not a clean line. The burst does not actually come over to the top of the body, but the back color is still "bursted" and blended into the top. (In the case of the dragon burst, it's not a black green yellow burst, but a dragon burst with a black back, no clean line). I don't know which is less confusing. To remove the "burst over" verbiage, or to leave it.
 
My head is swimming with all this and I have ow idea what I have on my VIP. The top is dyed yellow and the back is transparent brown. The yellow stops at the end of the thickness of the top. Is that simply just a clean line?
 
@Wolff05 many thanks.

Sometimes finding some language to explain something in a few words is a challenge. Possibly back colour blend over for natural masked binding, may be better than burst over, which sounds closer to what we think of as a sunburst.
 
My head is swimming with all this and I have ow idea what I have on my VIP. The top is dyed yellow and the back is transparent brown. The yellow stops at the end of the thickness of the top. Is that simply just a clean line?
This is where it gets even more fun. Yellow dye is weird. If it has a burst you can't see it as it blends in with the dye. However it would smooth out any tape lines.
 
No burst. Just a solid yellow dye on maple. Hog back w/ trans brown.the area where binding would be is yellow. No bleed from brown to yellow.
 
@Wolff05 Thanks for posting the pics and answering my question. Can you confirm which back finish was sprayed on the first pic? To me it looks like a transparent brown burst-over. Most pics I've seen of Amber dye look like that. I was hoping to order a body more like second one by using Transparent Amber back finish. The purpose of my question was to ask if natural masked binding can be used in the second case where the edge-burst is not easily noticeable. Should I specify "Transparent Amber (back-burst)" on the order?

amberdye-amber-burst-jpg.59518
amberdye-noburst-jpg.59519
 
@JohnnyHardtail The left photo is a Trans Amber back, but because of the natural masked binding it has the more pronounced burst.

The right is also trans amber, but with no burst (and no natural masked binding).

If you want the finish on the right, either order regular binding, or no binding, and select the trans amber back (no burst over). You could also add in the notes section that you do not want the burst, just to make sure. But if you want natural masked binding, it will have a burst.
 
Thanks Wolff05. Great answer. It makes sense.

As I'm planning on a front routed guitar with a pickguard, the second one without masked binding will give a cleaner look. I don't mind a slight burst over, but the combination of a pronounced burst, masked binding, and a pickguard might look too busy.
 
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This is a cool pic of amber dye from a forum member.
7831f1ef-61e2-4297-b7ea-a70789c5a9b0-jpg.55210

Full thread here:
 
I found a nice example from a forum member using masked binding with a subtle edge burst.


I'm planning to order before the end of April. Specs as follows:
Core Wood = Roasted Alder.
Lam Top = Flame Maple.
Control Cavity = Top route HSH.
Edge Treatment = Natural masked edges
Top Colour = Amber dye.
Back Colour = Transparent Amber.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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