LSR Nut Problems

[Patrick from Davis]

Well I am the problem, not the hardware.  It might seem obvious, but ebony is very hard.  After lubing up the screws to install the LSR nut I ran into problems.  Long story short, I might get a dye and thread the screw holes for the LSR nut.  The screws seized in place, then I mangled the heads of the screws, then I lost one, and I never did get very close to installing the thing.  I feel like I have achieved harmony with my inner dumbass.  So onto the next question.  Anyone know where I can get some more of the tiny screws that hold a LSR nut in place?  Thanks in advance.
Patrick

 

[Chris of Arabia]

I'm not sure they'll be that easy to find to be honest. The most obvious source might be another LSR nut kit. The other thing with these is that you really must use the correctly sized screwdriver if you don't already have one - mine is a Stanley 0pt Phillips, catalogue number 67-454. I remain eternally grateful that I didn't need to fit an LSR to the Ipe fingerboard on 'Braveheart' - I'll guarantee you I'd be in the exact same position with it.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I have the correct screw driver for it.  I have put one on another neck before and it went on without a problem.  I also found the screws that I installed for the tuners were really tough it get in to the ebony neck.  It is just hard stuff to get the screw teeth to go into with out binding up.  With the tuners I could use a small kinda dull router bit for circuit boards to slightly open up the hole.  Unfortunately those LSR holes are quite a bit smaller.  I guess I will try to find the correct replacement screws and see if I can tighten and loosen them over and over and over to see if they will "cut" threads into the holes.  Arrgh.  Another learning experience that I seemed to have gained that commodity known as, "character," with.
Patrick

 

[Wyliee]

Your local hardware store may be the best bet.  Take one of the mangled screws and see if they can match it.

 

[JTM]

A bit of candle-wax on the screw helps. I've assembled a warmoth N4-like a few weeks ago ( I've been too lazy to post pictures but will try to get around doing it ) with a padouk neck. Padouk is darmn hard as well, I got a nice set of blisters from screwing the neck, but I did find the wax helped, especially with the tuners where you don't want to break the thin screw.

 

[thumb55]

+1 on the correct screwdriver. Don't get a cheap screwdriver either.  A cheap phillips head is soft and strips out the screw and ruins the screwdriveer at the same time.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

Yeah, I have the Craftsman "0" sized screwdriver, nice one I got as a gift from Dad.  I used a silicone based, non toxic, non oxidizing, or non yellowing, based oil lubricant on the screws.  And I ran into ebony.  It is hard.  Scares the hell out of you, the screws make a popping noise when they start to move.  Not like the wood is cracking or any thing, but it gets the heart moving.  And I understand about the blisters on the hand when trying to screw these guy in, holy moly.  That was an easily misinterpretable line.  The bottom line is I should have stopped, backed them out, and started over to try to cut threads into the wood.  I got a little impatient and paid for it.  This is the second ebony neck I have put one of these on, and the first one was easy as can be.  Another learning experience.
Patrick

 

[thumb55]

My Warmoth neck (ebony/birdseye maple) was pre-drilled and I didn't have a problem at all. 

I was using a cheaper set of craftsman screwdrivers.  I went out and bought a $5 Husky #0 at home depot. (harder blade/bigger handle)
No problems since.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

This one is pre drilled as well, but it is still tough.  I am off to go and look for screws to replace the mangled ones.  Probably will get another screw driver for good measure.  The screws go into the ebony nicely until it decides enough.  It is not like other woods I have dealt with.  Once it decides that is enough, it stops.  No real progression of getting harder to turn, just, "OK that is as far as you go."  Maybe that is a bit much of a description, but it really doesn't have much of a transition.  Once the wood gets, "Threaded" it is like a nut on a bolt.  The screw falls into the threads and it is very much a precision machined system.  Ugh, Patience and a better screwdriver, it always seems to be the little things that cause the trouble.
Patrick