LP Style project

I think a well built and finished WARMOTH will blow away most Gibsons...trust me...I have 5 Warmoths and ONE Gibson Les Paul.  If you are looking for a set neck feel, you will never get that with Warmoth.

However if that Gibson is all you want...then it is the right guitar for you!  IN the end the only person that needs to be happy is YOU.

An 1800 budget will get you a killer Warmoth project.... :laughing7:
 
kboman said:
fourdogslong said:
Any thoughts?

Welcome to Warmoth! :toothy12:

But seriously, just go with your gut. While it's good to be an informed customer (and when is it ever not?), it's too easy to obsess over every little detail: sit down in a quiet place with a quiet head and picture what kind of guitar you would really like to play. Then go ahead and get that guitar!

Well I'm still open to read more opinions about wood tone and feel but I hear you, I think in the end I'll just follow my feelings and get whatever seems to be the good choice to me.
 
DMRACO said:
I think a well built and finished WARMOTH will blow away most Gibsons...trust me...I have 5 Warmoths and ONE Gibson Les Paul.  If you are looking for a set neck feel, you will never get that with Warmoth.

However if that Gibson is all you want...then it is the right guitar for you!  IN the end the only person that needs to be happy is YOU.

An 1800 budget will get you a killer Warmoth project.... :laughing7:

That's good to hear, I know orpheo prefer his warmoth to gibson but it's good to hear he's not the only one.
Honestly I don't have enough experience with seck necks to tell if I prefer that feel over a bolt on so that shouldn't matter.
My decision concerning the gibson is getting easier cause the seller doesn't want to give me the s/n, I don't want to waiste my time with it.
 
I honestly Prefer the feel of the bolt neck Joints on the  Bolt Neck Epi's that have them. over the standard set neck.

Its the same basic shape as the Warmoth LP, from the photo's.

I kinda hate the Set Necks on LP's. its my least favorite feature.
 
With the korina body and wenge/ebony neck, is the maple top recommended? I know the maple top would add lows and brightness but with a korina and wenge neck is it recommended? I'm pretty much set on that combo right now if they can get me a heavy piece of korina. Hopefuly they'll have some heavy piece!
 
fourdogslong said:
With the korina body and wenge/ebony neck, is the maple top recommended? I know the maple top would add lows and brightness but with a korina and wenge neck is it recommended? I'm pretty much set on that combo right now if they can get me a heavy piece of korina. Hopefuly they'll have some heavy piece!

yes, its recommended, cause it balances out your tone. having a les paul, with carved top, fully korina, won't do you any good. that will be a mushy business, with an exaggeration of mids and lower mids and bass. treble will be sweet, but too mellow.
 
Orpheo said:
fourdogslong said:
With the korina body and wenge/ebony neck, is the maple top recommended? I know the maple top would add lows and brightness but with a korina and wenge neck is it recommended? I'm pretty much set on that combo right now if they can get me a heavy piece of korina. Hopefuly they'll have some heavy piece!

yes, its recommended, cause it balances out your tone. having a les paul, with carved top, fully korina, won't do you any good. that will be a mushy business, with an exaggeration of mids and lower mids and bass. treble will be sweet, but too mellow.

Alright, that answers my question, thanks.
 
I've got a question concerning finish.

I know warmoth use a poly finish instead of nitro, I would've really like to get a nitro finish because I love the way it feels and the way it wear over time. Is there a place that offers high quality nitro finish?
Also, concerning warmoth's finish, how thick is it? Do they use any "filler" on the wood?
 
Nitro, seems since the word was coined everybody is an expert on how it feels,

Ever considered doing it yourself, you can get it in rattle cans

 
Jusatele said:
Nitro, seems since the word was coined everybody is an expert on how it feels,

Ever considered doing it yourself, you can get it in rattle cans

I'm no expert, I just like the way my bass feels and it has a nitro finish.
I don't wanna finish it myself, I'm not good with paint and my guitar is gonna have a binding, I don't want to screw it up.
 
Another question, I want warmoth to install the nut to save me the hassle, what do you recommend for best tone and possibly something that could work with a tremolo if I ever install a bigsby?
Also, do you have any tuner recommendation? Locking tuner maybe or are they too heavy for a wenge neck?
 
I allow my tech to put on the nut, the guy is so picky anyway, he usually just replaces the nut when he does a  fret/set up job anyway. And I like the way it turns out. I have thought about doing my own fret jobs but look at all the tools, and the hassles, and figure it is worth paying for.
Just my opinion
 
fourdogslong said:
Another question, I want warmoth to install the nut to save me the hassle, what do you recommend for best tone and possibly something that could work with a tremolo if I ever install a bigsby?
Also, do you have any tuner recommendation? Locking tuner maybe or are they too heavy for a wenge neck?

Graphtec TUSQ XL is the one to use with a trem. that doesn't have a locking nut.

If the W guys have fixed the neck builder page you'll be able to see it in the drop down menu.







 
Steve_Karl said:
fourdogslong said:
Another question, I want warmoth to install the nut to save me the hassle, what do you recommend for best tone and possibly something that could work with a tremolo if I ever install a bigsby?
Also, do you have any tuner recommendation? Locking tuner maybe or are they too heavy for a wenge neck?

Graphtec TUSQ XL is the one to use with a trem. that doesn't have a locking nut.
Actually, I'll be using it for my next 2 hard tail builds also.

If the W guys have fixed the neck builder page you'll be able to see it in the drop down menu.

Thanks but I'd rather have a white or cream colored nut, so I guess my choices are white tusq or white corian, they don't seem to offer bone nut for a 1 1/16" nut right now...?
 
The white TUSQ is the way to go, if you must have white. Or, you could put an LSR nut on there, which has a satin stainless steel finish. Costs a bit more than a standard nut, but less than an Earvana, and solves a lot of problems for a long time.
 
Cagey said:
The white TUSQ is the way to go, if you must have white. Or, you could put an LSR nut on there, which has a satin stainless steel finish. Costs a bit more than a standard nut, but less than an Earvana, and solves a lot of problems for a long time.

I think I'm go with white tusq, the LSR seems great but I prefer to keep that guitar sort of "classic" looking.
thanks
 
Concerning the tuners, do you guys believe that I should go with locking tuner just in case I decide to install a bigsby eventually? Are they worth it, are they too heavey for an allready "heavy" warmoth pro wenge neck?
And what brand do you recommend? I want something good, I'm tired of crappy tuners.

I need to decide fast because I'm gonna order my guitar this week!
Thanks guys.
 
Locking tuners are a Good Thing even if you don't ever intend to use a vibrato bridge. It's easier/faster to get the string started properly, and easier/faster to get it off later. Plus, even without the winding/unwinding that happens with a wang bar, not having a several wraps on the peg means you don't suffer backlash as much, so detuning is more predictable, and when you tune back up it's more likely to stay where you put it. The whole thing is just a no-brainer.

As for which brand, Sperzels seem to be the standard by which all others are judged. They've always made very high-quality, well-designed parts, and still do, for a reasonable amount of money.

3421_1lg.jpg

Sperzel Trim Loks


Schaller locking minis are very much the same design, but they kick it up a notch by making the knurled nut you use to lock the thing a little bit thicker, so it's easier to get a grip on. They also have polished finishes, while the Sperzels are satin finished.

0659_1lg.jpg

Schaller Locking Minis


Planet Waves Auto-Trim tuners are again very much the same design, but they kick it up yet another notch by adding in an automatic string cutter in the post. After the string is locked and you're tightening it up to tune it, the excess string is cut off.

5280_1lg.jpg
5280_3lg.jpg

Planet Waves Auto-Trim tuners

I've used plenty of the Sperzels and Schallers, and can vouch for their quality and utility. Can't go wrong with them. I haven't tried the PWs yet, although I intend to. The design seems sound, with the locking method being proven and the cutting method being simple. My only concern is going to be how long that cutting edge lasts in real life. Cutting nickel-plated spring steel is tough on a cutting edge, so if they haven't taken measures to insure that edge is going to last those tuners could get to be a pain in the shorts. But, I haven't heard anything negative about that, so I may be worried about nothing. Thing is, they haven't been around long enough to gain any real empirical data on that issue.

Pretty much everything else is a compromise, and you don't want to do that with your tuners. I've seen guys get so pissed at guitars that wouldn't tune that they've smashed them into kindling. Nothing quite as frustrating as a guitar that fights tuning, or won't stay once you get it there. These three machines get the job done quickly, reliably, and hassle-free, then hold their place.
 
I got the Schaller mini locking for my last build and I really like them.

2 minor gotcha's:

1) You just need to make sure the adjustment screw ( top center of the knob ) is properly adjusted.
It's not obvious from the feel of the tuner, i.e. when turning the knob, if the adj. is too loose.
Check them all with a screw driver to avoid backlash problems.

2) I've taken to wearing a leather work glove when tightening the locking nut to avoid "road rash" on my delicate skin. :)
 
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