Jazz Bass replacement neck questions

Max Webster

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I have an alder 1996 American Standard J-Bass and I want to upgrade the neck.  I think the Warmoth thin contour will be too thin for me. I prefer the smaller Gibson necks, which are narrow across the strings but deep under the thumb. I also do like the profile of my existing stock neck. The reason I am doing this is to upgrade the sound of the AM Jazz, and to also upgrade my Mexican Jazz by swapping the stock bass neck. The MIM neck is noticeably thinner, similar to the Geddy Lee and the '62 reissue. It gives me hand fatigue to play it and sits unused.

My initial choices are an unfinished bubinga neck and a Pau Ferro fretboard. SS6105 frets and Corian nut. I am also thinking of a reverse headstock to tighten up the low strings. I often play heavy gauge strings tuned down a full tone. This bass will have strictly roundwound GHS Boomers on it. The Mexican gets the Thomastik Jazz flats. I think this wood combination will result in a stable neck with forward mid-range presence, a solid and tight low end with a pleasing high end. I have another bass with a ebony/maple neck and find the sound a bit harsh. I just don't have any practical experience designing bass necks beyond what I have read.

Will I find a major change in tone from my stock rosewood neck?

Have I picked woods that will give me the tone I envision? 

Should I go with the Fat Back neck contour?
 
A couple quick thoughts:

- There is only one back contour available on 4 string bass necks.  They're thicker front to back than a Geddy neck.
- With the thicker neck and stiffening rods, you should find the sound fuller and more even.
- Reversing the headstock is not going to increase tension, IMO.
- Bubinga/pau ferro will be heavier.  Keep that in mind.  Consider maple/pau ferro.  Not quite as bright as maple/ebony but brighter than maple/rosewood.  If you don't mind a bit of weight, look at wenge for the neck shaft.
 
Max Webster said:
I think the Warmoth thin contour will be too thin for me.

I've never heard anyone utter that statement before. Warmoth necks usually get big complaints about being too thick.

Max Webster said:
I am also thinking of a reverse headstock to tighten up the low strings.
Wyliee said:
- Reversing the headstock is not going to increase tension, IMO.

I agree.
If you want good downward tension over the nut, get a 3 string retainer over the top three strings, and push the E string as far down the peg as possible.

Max Webster said:
Will I find a major change in tone from my stock rosewood neck?

I have never seen any Fender bass with a Rosewood neck on it. Are you sure it's not Maple? :icon_scratch:

Max Webster said:
Should I go with the Fat Back neck contour?
Wyliee said:
- There is only one back contour available on 4 string bass necks.
Yep. Only one contour for 4 string bass necks.

Wyliee said:
Consider maple/pau ferro.  Not quite as bright as maple/ebony but brighter than maple/rosewood.

-1
Go for an exotic that can be played raw. :icon_biggrin:
 
Speaking as a bass player who has owned dozens of high quality basses (from Gibsons to Fenders to Warwicks to Ricks), Warmoth necks are freaking perfect.  They are not too thin, by any stretch of the imagination.  They feel like a cross between my 70s J-bass and my EB-0.  They're fat enough and skinny enough.  I would suggest the thinner width of the Warmoth J neck, personally.  I currently own 4 basses with Warmoth J necks (maple/ebony fretless, maple/maple, pau ferro/pau ferro, and bloodwood/ebony). 

If weight is an issue, go with what Wyliee suggested... Maple/pau ferro would be a wonderful neck.

If weight isn't an issue, do yourself a huge favor and get an exotic wood neck.  Bloodwood/Ebony or Blood/wood/Bloodwood would be absolutely amazing.  Everyone I've ever played music with falls in love with my bloodwood necked bass.  It has this sweet Gibson-esque "honk" and tonal smoothness across the full range of the instrument while maintaining the Fender "growl." 

Here is a link to 3 of those basses plus my 70s J-bass: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=7845.0

-Mark
 
line6man said:
Max Webster said:
Will I find a major change in tone from my stock rosewood neck?

I have never seen any Fender bass with a Rosewood neck on it. Are you sure it's not Maple? :icon_scratch:

He means maple/rosewood.  In Fender-land, all necks are maple, so when people refer to a maple or rosewood "neck" they're talking about the fretboard.
 
AprioriMark said:
If weight isn't an issue, do yourself a huge favor and get an exotic wood neck.  Bloodwood/Ebony or Blood/wood/Bloodwood would be absolutely amazing.  Everyone I've ever played music with falls in love with my bloodwood necked bass.  It has this sweet Gibson-esque "honk" and tonal smoothness across the full range of the instrument while maintaining the Fender "growl."  

I've never played a Bloodwood neck, but I have a Padouk neck, and it's absolutely amazing.
Padouk and Bloodwood are similar in color and Warmoth told me they are similar tonally. (Padouk happens to be similar to Maple, so you more-or-less still get the traditional Fender sound.)
I'm not sure how different the feel and weight are though.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jrkdesimone/3314064235/in/set-72157615913275051/

+1 on your original idea for a Pau Ferro board. Pau Ferro is awesome.
Here is my Pau Ferro board from the fingerboard gallery:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jrkdesimone/3314062997/in/set-72157615913275051/
 
line6man said:
...but I have a Padouk neck, and it's absolutely amazing.

Agreed.  That's a nice looking neck on a very nice bass.

Max Webster, you really can't go wrong with Padouk, Bloodwood, Bubinga or any of the other raw exotic woods that Warmoth offers.  They feel so nice and Warmoth does an excellent job.  My preferred raw exotic neck wood is Canary, which is also supposed to have a tone similar to Maple.
 
Max said:
Your name might cause problems  :icon_jokercolor:

Only if I steal your picture  :evil4:



Thanks for all your good advice! Only now I am more confused than before. I thought that I saw the fatback as an option somewhere on the site.

Weight is a major issue for me, I hate playing a bass with bad neckdive. I really need to maintain the balance and I already find the Jazz close to being too heavy for a 3 set night. Would the use of ultralight tuners compensate enough for the added weight of the wood?  :dontknow:
Is Canary so named for its feather-weight or its feather like colour? I really would like to get a raw wood neck. I can use maple and sand off the finish, but the discolouration is unappealing.
 
Max Webster said:
Max said:
Your name might cause problems  :icon_jokercolor:

Only if I steal your picture  :evil4:



Thanks for all your good advice! Only now I am more confused than before. I thought that I saw the fatback as an option somewhere on the site.

Weight is a major issue for me, I hate playing a bass with bad neckdive. I really need to maintain the balance and I already find the Jazz close to being too heavy for a 3 set night. Would the use of ultralight tuners compensate enough for the added weight of the wood?  :dontknow:
Is Canary so named for its feather-weight or its feather like colour? I really would like to get a raw wood neck. I can use maple and sand off the finish, but the discolouration is unappealing.

You were probably either looking at the guitar necks or the 8 string neck.

Definitely get the Hipshot Ultralites! I have a set (with detuner) on my Padouk neck and they really do make a difference.
It does depend a lot on the wood in question though. A solid Pau Ferro or Wenge neck for example would be heavy as hell. I don't know how heavy Canary is.

Canary is named for it's color. Shouldn't that be obvious? :icon_scratch:

With Maple, it isn't the discoloration that you should be worried about. Maple will warp over time if left unfinished.
 
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