BigSteve22
Hero Member
- Messages
- 2,798
Let me start by saying that I haven't use a pick in years. Because I don't hit the strings with a lot of force, I can get away with an action that's considerably lower than most. A sub .060" action was the aim of this this set up job, and that was made much easier because I sent the neck out for a professional fret leveling, dressing, nut set up, straightening and threaded insert install. Cagey did a most excellent job, and I would HIGHLY recommend his work to anyone.
My guitar combines a Mastery Bridge, designed for a traditional JM neck with a 7.25" fretboard radius, with a Warmoth 10"-16" compound radius neck. Mastery's web site says that the bridge is adjustable to accommodate "any common fingerboard radius, from 7.25" onward", but there are some salient points that need addressing. This is what I did on mine.
After mounting the neck, and stringing up, I dropped the bridge plate as low as it would go, and as suggested elsewhere, (I don't remember where I read this), I used the four set screws on the saddles to raise the strings and set the action, rather than raising the bridge plate. This increases downward pressure on the saddles. But there was a problem: Even with the base plate as low as it would go, and the saddles set very low, the action was still WAY too high for my liking. If I set the saddles any lower, the strings hit the the 7.25" arch of the front side of the bridge. Not a good thing.
My initial solution to this may make some cringe, but it worked out in the end. I ground 3/16" scalloped recesses into the front side of the bridge to provide clearance for the strings. (The strings move slightly sideways when setting the intonation, so the scallops do not appear to be centered, but they are actually under the strings. Picture was taken after the set up was complete.)
This worked as intended. The strings were now able to clear the bridge plate arch, and I was able to lower the saddles and achieve an acceptable, although not exactly what I wanted, action. Or so I thought....
After tuning to pitch, and resetting the intonation, I played for a while and pondered whether to set the saddles lower, or just live with what I had already achieved. I picked up the guitar again after a short break, and got my answer by way of an ominous buzz coming from the bridge. Close inspection revealed that the action was already low enough to decrease the string break angle over the saddles to the point where there was not enough pressure on the saddles to hold them securely against the base plate. Turns out that the slight rearward angle of the intonation screw mounting tabs causes the intonation screws to spring upward if the break angle does not provide sufficient downward pressure. Definitely not a good thing!
What to do?...what to do?......
Remembering the discussion of Stew Mac's somewhat overpriced neck shims, I went to their site and started reading. There, on the first page of reviews, was the tale of a JM player who needed to increase his bridge's break angle, and achieved perfect results by using one of the 0.5 degree shims! Alright, maybe $6.95US PLUS shipping is a little steep for a sliver of maple, but having already spent two grand on parts , it didn't seem TOO pricey. I ordered two 0.5's and a 1.0 just in case.
After installing a 0.5 degree shim I was able to raise both the base plate and the saddles to increase the break angle and eliminate the buzz. Because of the increased angle I was able to set the action to an amazingly low .040" at the 12th fret, on both the high and low E strings. I know, sounds like BS, but the gauge don't lie....
After a complete evaluation, the only buzz anywhere on the neck, is a fret out when doing a full step bend on the high E at the 17th fret. (The string just barely touched the 18th fret.) I could raise the saddle a smidge, but hell, I can live with that!
:headbang1:
My guitar combines a Mastery Bridge, designed for a traditional JM neck with a 7.25" fretboard radius, with a Warmoth 10"-16" compound radius neck. Mastery's web site says that the bridge is adjustable to accommodate "any common fingerboard radius, from 7.25" onward", but there are some salient points that need addressing. This is what I did on mine.
After mounting the neck, and stringing up, I dropped the bridge plate as low as it would go, and as suggested elsewhere, (I don't remember where I read this), I used the four set screws on the saddles to raise the strings and set the action, rather than raising the bridge plate. This increases downward pressure on the saddles. But there was a problem: Even with the base plate as low as it would go, and the saddles set very low, the action was still WAY too high for my liking. If I set the saddles any lower, the strings hit the the 7.25" arch of the front side of the bridge. Not a good thing.
My initial solution to this may make some cringe, but it worked out in the end. I ground 3/16" scalloped recesses into the front side of the bridge to provide clearance for the strings. (The strings move slightly sideways when setting the intonation, so the scallops do not appear to be centered, but they are actually under the strings. Picture was taken after the set up was complete.)
This worked as intended. The strings were now able to clear the bridge plate arch, and I was able to lower the saddles and achieve an acceptable, although not exactly what I wanted, action. Or so I thought....
After tuning to pitch, and resetting the intonation, I played for a while and pondered whether to set the saddles lower, or just live with what I had already achieved. I picked up the guitar again after a short break, and got my answer by way of an ominous buzz coming from the bridge. Close inspection revealed that the action was already low enough to decrease the string break angle over the saddles to the point where there was not enough pressure on the saddles to hold them securely against the base plate. Turns out that the slight rearward angle of the intonation screw mounting tabs causes the intonation screws to spring upward if the break angle does not provide sufficient downward pressure. Definitely not a good thing!
What to do?...what to do?......
Remembering the discussion of Stew Mac's somewhat overpriced neck shims, I went to their site and started reading. There, on the first page of reviews, was the tale of a JM player who needed to increase his bridge's break angle, and achieved perfect results by using one of the 0.5 degree shims! Alright, maybe $6.95US PLUS shipping is a little steep for a sliver of maple, but having already spent two grand on parts , it didn't seem TOO pricey. I ordered two 0.5's and a 1.0 just in case.
After installing a 0.5 degree shim I was able to raise both the base plate and the saddles to increase the break angle and eliminate the buzz. Because of the increased angle I was able to set the action to an amazingly low .040" at the 12th fret, on both the high and low E strings. I know, sounds like BS, but the gauge don't lie....
After a complete evaluation, the only buzz anywhere on the neck, is a fret out when doing a full step bend on the high E at the 17th fret. (The string just barely touched the 18th fret.) I could raise the saddle a smidge, but hell, I can live with that!
:headbang1:
ccasion14: 
