Installing Bass Ferrules

[JimBeed]

Well im just ready to install the ferrules in the back of my bass, but they dont push down, what i believe it is is that the slight bit of finish in the hole makes it too small a hole for the ferrules, they are ferrules sold from warmoth so theyll be the right ones for the job. i looked at the post on heating the ferrule, but however i dont feel confident enough to do that thing on my bass, so would i do ok getting sandpaper and filing the sides of the ferrule holes to let it push in easier, so i either wouldnt need to use a hammer with something to protect the body, or just very lightly, any suggestions?
Going through this build at a fairly good speed now the tuner problems are resolved thanks to some help.
oh and the bridge went on fine at the front with some soap wax on the screws, with the ground wire looped round the middle screw under the plate for grounding purposes.

 

[mayfly]

I'd still recommend the soldering iron trick.  I've done it many times with poly, nitro, and even acrylic finishes. 

Don't fear the iron...

 

[tfarny]

Yeah the soldering iron trick is the best way, you want those suckers in there real tight and enlarging the hole isn't a great idea.

 

[JimBeed]

Well i never installed bass tuners before, but after a few mess ups it didnt turn out bad, so i didnt quite get it, what do i do? do i like hold the ferrule with plyers and put the soldering iron tip in the middle for 15 seconds, then do i push it in with something on the top? i dont entirely get how heating it up makes it small enough to slide in, or does the metal work different than i thought, then again i dont entirely know how the metal works.
i had read the post again i jsut didnt entirely get it, so if you could explain better at all it would be appreciated.

 

[Mor Paul]

The heat melts the finish slightly.

 

[JimBeed]

Ah ok, and this would definately work for ferrule holes cut by warmoth using the ferrules sold by warmoth? as there both from same place im guessing yes, but i dont wanna put a hot piece of ferrule near my bass unless it definately works for the combination i have, and i can understand not sanding as it needs to be tight, and i dont fancy knocking it in with a hammer and a piece of cloth covered wood, as even i know wood breaks with shit like that at times, so i guess de solidifying the finish around it would be the safest option, even with a slight tap from the rubber mallet, as im guessing even thats better than a metal one, erm so yeah, just double checking then ill try it with one, to see how it ends up

 

[NQbass7]

I just installed ferrules on the back of my Tele yesterday, and I used a countersink bit (by hand) to take a little finish off the lip of the hole, then a drill bit (again by hand) to scrape a little out of the inside, and then just used a phillips head screwdriver to push them in by hand, with a few taps on the end of the screwdriver to seat them all the way.  They're still tight - I can't imagine them ever coming out - but no chance of overheating anything or causing the finish to bubble a little bit or anything like that.

 

[JimBeed]

Well ive got the ferrules installed, by a way which bypassed heating and scraping much at all, and no splits, or damage to finish, thanks all in part to some bubble packaging that came with the guitar, good job i hadnt chucked it but question now, are they supposed to sit flush the top of them with the body, or stick out a bit? i put them in as much as i thought looked right, and there all level, one needs bit of work to get a tiny bit lower, but there all in there holes and strings fit through over to the bridge correctly.
the holes are non modified so i was just checking if they sat flush or if people do that after? personally i dont care if they stick out a bit, just checking if i should put them in further, but part of me hopes not so i dont risk any finish

 

[Cagey]

The ferrules have a lip on them that's larger in diameter than the hole they fit into, so unless the hole has been relieved to accept that lip, they're not going to sit flush. Warmoth only drills for the ferrule body diameter, not the lip. Some people modify the hole so they will sit flush, but that's a matter of taste. It's not necessary.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I used a nut driver to press down on the ferrules.  It presses evenly and doesn't get stuck in the center hole.  And the soldering iron does work well.  It works much faster on nitro in my experience.
Patrick