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Input jack questions

stankybudz

Junior Member
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I chose the 1/2'' input jack, and im just curious as to why they dont even offer the standard 1/4'' option. Also, what jack am I supposed to get?
 
This seems to be a perennial bi-weekly favorite here.  For those who wish to be pedantic, it's neither an input, nor an output, but merely a passive connection. If you so choose, you're welcome to pump AC signals through the jack and make the strings do funny things for party tricks. If you have active pickups, then it can be considered strictly an output jack. But even then it would be possible to phantom power your active pickups via the jack, and then you'd be in a real quandary. It's an input jack at DC, but an output jack above 10 Hz. What is it at the corner frequency???

All the jacks offered accept a 1/4" phone plug. The 1/2" jack takes a deep barrel jack, like an acoustic guitar might have through the endpin, and has no plate surrounding it. 3/4 and 7/8 take a little cup that goes in the side, like a Les Paul or Tele. Strat jacks go in the top obviously.

You can see them all at:
http://www.warmoth.com/Jacks-Jackplates-C68.aspx
 
The 1/2" jack refers to the outside diameter of the cylinder that is inserted into the hole for the jack.


This long threaded shaft is the 1/2" part:
DPJ1.jpg



That's the required part for the 1/2" jack bore:


sidejack_options_deepjack.jpg



That jack won't work in any wider-diameter bore.  So if your body has a wider diameter bore, you're looking at either the football plate (which works with the 3/4" bore, but not the 7/8" bore) or the square plate (works with either), or the Tele-style jack cup or Electrosocket (each of which works only with the 7/8" bore).
 
So did I really screw up by getting the 1/2'' jack route? It looks like it would accept the football jackplate as opposed to the straight in pin look in that one pic. Perhaps they caught my mistake and made it how itshould be? Lol
 
stankybudz said:
So did I really screw up by getting the 1/2'' jack route? It looks like it would accept the football jackplate as opposed to the straight in pin look in that one pic. Perhaps they caught my mistake and made it how itshould be? Lol

If the shaft is long enough, you can ream out a football jack plate and mount a 1/2" jack in it. Otherwise, you glue a dowel in the hole and redrill it with the appropriate size Forstner bit. Or pay the change order fee to have Warmoth drill a different size.
 
stankybudz said:
So did I really screw up by getting the 1/2'' jack route? It looks like it would accept the football jackplate as opposed to the straight in pin look in that one pic. Perhaps they caught my mistake and made it how itshould be? Lol

You didn't screw up per se, but you limited your jack choice to the panel mount part. It's the only one that will work in that hole. It's not the end of the world, but it does limit your jack choice pretty severely. You can use a panel jack, or if you don't like those you can use a panel jack, and if you need to do an emergency repair all you'll need is a panel jack, and good luck finding one.
 
If it's not to late, you can have Warmoth fix it for you at their charge.  Or, like Line6man said, plug it with a 1/2" dowel and redrill to a larger size, preferably 7/8", as that will work with anything.  And no, you didn't screw up.  The jack is 1/4", but the ream has to be bigger than the cable it's servicing.  Like a tuning post compared to a tuner ream.
 
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
If it's not to late, you can have Warmoth fix it for you at their charge.  Or, like Line6man said, plug it with a 1/2" dowel and redrill to a larger size, preferably 7/8", as that will work with anything.  And no, you didn't screw up.  The jack is 1/4", but the ream has to be bigger than the cable it's servicing.  Like a tuning post compared to a tuner ream.

I tend to doubt Warmoth is going to fix it for nothing, unless a different drill was specified and and they didn't pay attention. He'll have to check his order.
 
Imagine the nutsies at Warmoth if they let everybody alter their order right up till shipping time! It's bad enough changing your own mind 72, 217 times before you pull the trigger.
 
Cagey said:
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
If it's not to late, you can have Warmoth fix it for you at their charge.  Or, like Line6man said, plug it with a 1/2" dowel and redrill to a larger size, preferably 7/8", as that will work with anything.  And no, you didn't screw up.  The jack is 1/4", but the ream has to be bigger than the cable it's servicing.  Like a tuning post compared to a tuner ream.

I tend to doubt Warmoth is going to fix it for nothing, unless a different drill was specified and and they didn't pay attention. He'll have to check his order.

Unless I missed it, I didn't see when it was ordered.  When I say not too late, I mean not drilled yet.  If it's a lam top and not a pre-existing body blank, something that could buy some time before it hits the CNC table.  And yes, I don't see them changing the order for free, but did you want solutions or free solutions?  Like you said, you can use a deep panel jack, and if breaks, replace it with a deep panel jack.
 
swarfrat said:
This seems to be a perennial bi-weekly favorite here.  For those who wish to be pedantic, it's neither an input, nor an output, but merely a passive connection. If you so choose, you're welcome to pump AC signals through the jack and make the strings do funny things for party tricks. If you have active pickups, then it can be considered strictly an output jack. But even then it would be possible to phantom power your active pickups via the jack, and then you'd be in a real quandary. It's an input jack at DC, but an output jack above 10 Hz. What is it at the corner frequency???
The stupid thing is, there's only one jack on a guitar. Can't we just call it "the jack"? It's not like we need to make clear which one we're talking about.
 
People care more about debating over minute details that most people who don't spend the majority of their waking hours on the internet here, rather than actually being constructive and helpful.

:rock-on:
 
I think people are trying to be helpful, not argue for argument's sake or prove any kind of superior knowledge. You have to call things what they are, or you risk miscommunication.

Accuracy is important. Even though the site is heavily focused on Warmoth parts, it's a builder's forum where the vast majority of the members are more interested in learning/teaching/sharing tips and techniques than playing mental games. So, you'll see comments correcting people about input vs. output jacks, split coils vs. tapped coils, tremolo vs. vibrato, etc. It's not meant to disparage or condescend; it's meant to correct so community members don't find themselves saying something wrong in front of somebody who knows better and looking like a dingbat.
 
I really don't want to reopen this can of worms .... HOWEVER!

Techically the jack found on the guitar's body is an input jack ... because every connector you find in pro audio, the female jack is always the input, and the male jack (the one with the pins) is always the output.

Electricity has it completely backwards, where the female jack is always the output, and the male jack is always the input.

1/4" , 1/8", and RCA jacks (and nowadays HDMI and firewire) are the only place where this gets screwed up.  If you want to hook your TV up to your home theatre, the cable you're holding has the male ends, and the 2 devices in question have the female ends.  So even though you're outputting from the TV, then inputting to the receiver, the connection looks the same at both ends.

There has got to be a better term to use ... because I wholeheartedly agree that the guitar outputs the signal (using an input jack), and the amplifier receives the input signal (also using an input jack), regardless of which end of your guitar cable gets plugged into either side.

Perhaps it should simply be called a 1/4" female jack and be left at that!    ??? :icon_scratch: :-\
 
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