HSS 1V + 1T + Autosplit

[fdesalvo]

Here's a really cool layout diagram for you HSS dudes.  I've used a modified version of this for my last HSS that had an additional Tone control.  I'll be using this one in my current Velocity build.

Enjoy!

 

[Wolf Follower]

Thanks for sharing. That's a very practical wiring design that puts all the sounds you're really going to use on the main switch. As a personal preference, I would replace the bridge-middle selection with bridge-neck since this tends to be my favorite combo for clean sounds. This of course can also be done with the usual strat single coils and three pole switch if you can live with the middle pickup being in the top switch position.

WF

 

[fdesalvo]

Indeed.  You've made me realize that I don't typically use the #2 position, but I do love the tele config.  I might change my #2 position to split hum + neck.  :headbang:

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Is C1 a capacitor?
I'm pretty confident that C3 is.
P1 & P3 appear to just be regular connections running to the volume pot, but in case I'm wrong, is there anything significant about them?

 

[fdesalvo]

Ding!Ding!

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Ding!Ding!

What is the significance of the C2 cap?  Is it specific to one or more pickup switch selections, or all like C3?

 

[fdesalvo]

I believe it changes the capacitance of the tone circuit when the humbucker is selected.

 

[pabloman]

Those are resistors. R1 &R3.

 

[fdesalvo]

Yup

 

[Wolf Follower]

The schematic has three resistors and three capacitors, although a couple aren't labelled. You can tell by the shape as well as the values. For the caps, n=nanofarad and pf=picofarad. The diagram seems to suggest soldering the grounds to the pot shells although I would recommend against this. It would be best to solder them to a single ground lug to avoid potential ground loops and pot damage. If you shield the control cavity the lug will also ground the shield, which is desirable.

WF

 

[Cagey]

The diagram seems to suggest soldering the grounds to the pot shells although I would recommend against this. It would be best to solder them to a single ground lug to avoid potential ground loops and pot damage. If you shield the control cavity the lug will also ground the shield, which is desirable.

There's a thread on that very topic here. I just use them to save the pots and provide convenient tapping points for other components or ground connections. As for ground loops, I'm less concerned about them occurring in the guitar's control cavity than I am about Naked Mole Rats developing a practical method of space travel that would allow them to colonize the moon. 

 

[Wolf Follower]

As for ground loops, I'm less concerned about them occurring in the guitar's control cavity than I am about Naked Mole Rats developing a practical method of space travel that would allow them to colonize the moon.

I too share your concern about mole rats colonizing the moon. I thought I was the only one!

I can't say that I've ever pinpointed the cause of a noisy guitar to an internal ground loop - I tend to just gut them and rewire everything. However, I can see the possibility of those pot casings being at different potentials - they're probably not great conductors and you couple that with poor solder joints... at the least it's bad practice to have them connected with nothing to gain by doing it.

WF

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Well, I can tell that the cap & resistor combo at the pot is a treble bleed, I just wasn't sure about the ones at the switch.

Regarding the Mole Rats, so long as they are denied authorization for space travel, we may be fine.
I know, maybe we should put them on Mole Rat colonies, like reservations, and only allow them to leave when travelling from one reservation to the next....