how to care for unfinished woods.

jorri

Newbie
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21
I got wenge/ebony neck.
the wenge is so odd. its like picking up a piece of balsa its so light, feels so flimsy, but if i dropped it onto concrete i'd probably have trouble finding a mark on it.

anyway- I've been told these woods are fine unfinished. but what should i use to clean and maintain them.
i've used kyser lemon oil before on rosewood boards which i like. is it safe on these?

And how will they change over time? i'm guessing they will.
 
I have a few wenge necks, great stuff.
I give then an occasional rub down with boiled linseed oil.
You can find it at most hardware stores.
It brings out the grain a bit too.

James
 
Lemon oil is good.  Raw necks get smoother as you play on them.  And I guess padouk changes color... dunno about wenge.
 
Lemon oil is just (here I go again, but read the labels...) a petrolium distillate with some other oil, or perhaps some actual lemon oil and a lemon fragrance and some yellow dye.

There is finish called Fret Doctor which is very good, no petro additives.  Its the real thing.  A very close approximation (dare I let this secret out) can be had with 15-25 percent pure Tung oil in citrus solvent, which is 98 citrus peel oil and 2 percent water.  The water's effect is nil in this concoction.  I've used that and I'll be dang'd, but its pretty close to Fret Doctor.  If you try that, use less Tung, closer to the 15 percent, and see how you like it, add more if you think it needs more "body",

These folks http://www.realmilkpaint.com have the honest good stuff for both tung and citrus solvent.  No affiliation with moi, I just know their products are as presented in the ads.

Having said that... I've used linseed on rosewood, and its had no ill effect when used VERY sparingly.
 
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
I've never heard of Wenge being called light and flimsy.  If you put it in water, it wouldn't even float.
+1. It's normally pretty heavy, from what I've heard.
 
Max said:
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
I've never heard of Wenge being called light and flimsy.  If you put it in water, it wouldn't even float.
+1. It's normally pretty heavy, from what I've heard.
Might is quite a bit heavier than some of my other necks, and it doesn't feel flimsy to me at all....
 
=CB= said:
Lemon oil is just (here I go again, but read the labels...) a petrolium distillate with some other oil, or perhaps some actual lemon oil and a lemon fragrance and some yellow dye.

There is finish called Fret Doctor which is very good, no petro additives.  Its the real thing.  A very close approximation (dare I let this secret out) can be had with 15-25 percent pure Tung oil in citrus solvent, which is 98 citrus peel oil and 2 percent water.  The water's effect is nil in this concoction.  I've used that and I'll be dang'd, but its pretty close to Fret Doctor.  If you try that, use less Tung, closer to the 15 percent, and see how you like it, add more if you think it needs more "body",

These folks http://www.realmilkpaint.com have the honest good stuff for both tung and citrus solvent.  No affiliation with moi, I just know their products are as presented in the ads.

Having said that... I've used linseed on rosewood, and its had no ill effect when used VERY sparingly.

My late Dad used to swear by Linseed Oil once a month to give a dog a great shiny, glossy coat. We tried it on my last dog, a red Kelpie and after about three months he shone like a beacon. Getting the stuff down his throat was like trying to wrestle a bear though.

The above info you gave is very good, wonder if they can ship that stuff over to Australia though. A lot of liquids won't/can't be shipped by plane. And I do need some 'good oil' for my ebony boards.
 
OzziePete said:
=CB= said:
Lemon oil is just (here I go again, but read the labels...) a petrolium distillate with some other oil, or perhaps some actual lemon oil and a lemon fragrance and some yellow dye.

There is finish called Fret Doctor which is very good, no petro additives.  Its the real thing.  A very close approximation (dare I let this secret out) can be had with 15-25 percent pure Tung oil in citrus solvent, which is 98 citrus peel oil and 2 percent water.  The water's effect is nil in this concoction.  I've used that and I'll be dang'd, but its pretty close to Fret Doctor.  If you try that, use less Tung, closer to the 15 percent, and see how you like it, add more if you think it needs more "body",

These folks http://www.realmilkpaint.com have the honest good stuff for both tung and citrus solvent.  No affiliation with moi, I just know their products are as presented in the ads.

Having said that... I've used linseed on rosewood, and its had no ill effect when used VERY sparingly.

My late Dad used to swear by Linseed Oil once a month to give a dog a great shiny, glossy coat. We tried it on my last dog, a red Kelpie and after about three months he shone like a beacon. Getting the stuff down his throat was like trying to wrestle a bear though.

LOL
I wasn't aware of its nutritional value.
 
Best thing for cleaning the frets is wd-40, followed by wiping down the whole neck with naptha.  Let it dry and then condition with mineral oil.
 
Watershed said:
OzziePete said:
=CB= said:
Lemon oil is just (here I go again, but read the labels...) a petrolium distillate with some other oil, or perhaps some actual lemon oil and a lemon fragrance and some yellow dye.

There is finish called Fret Doctor which is very good, no petro additives.  Its the real thing.  A very close approximation (dare I let this secret out) can be had with 15-25 percent pure Tung oil in citrus solvent, which is 98 citrus peel oil and 2 percent water.  The water's effect is nil in this concoction.  I've used that and I'll be dang'd, but its pretty close to Fret Doctor.  If you try that, use less Tung, closer to the 15 percent, and see how you like it, add more if you think it needs more "body",

These folks http://www.realmilkpaint.com have the honest good stuff for both tung and citrus solvent.  No affiliation with moi, I just know their products are as presented in the ads.

Having said that... I've used linseed on rosewood, and its had no ill effect when used VERY sparingly.

My late Dad used to swear by Linseed Oil once a month to give a dog a great shiny, glossy coat. We tried it on my last dog, a red Kelpie and after about three months he shone like a beacon. Getting the stuff down his throat was like trying to wrestle a bear though.

LOL
I wasn't aware of its nutritional value.

Judging by the response of the dog when I reached for the bottle to give him and afterwards, I doubt it is very highly nutritious nor tasty to a dog. BTW, I can recall my Dad getting it from a pharmacy, I *think* it was pure Linseed Oil he asked for. Once my Dad passed on,  I had troubles locating the same bottle of the stuff (this was back in 1985) & I was reluctant to substitute it for something that might have been poisonous to the dog.

An old school dog breeder trick I think, and I'd do some research before hand, before giving your own pooch a teaspoon of the stuff. It may not be recommended practice these days, and it may be hard to get the exact stuff my father was getting.
 
I take flax seed oil capsules to keep my hands from drying out and cracking in the winter - it really, really works! You have to find good stuff, the Wal-Mart variety does nothing.... my brother-in-law is an eye surgeon, and he puts his patients on a diet of flax seed oil capsules for two months before a cataract or cornea operation. I read about it on the Steel Guitar Forum (oo-old people....dry-y-y people...) :eek:

http://www.bodybuilding.com/store/un/flax.html

I put this goop on my guitars, beeswax and orange oil, yummy! Elderly Instruments uses it on the old Martins & such ->

http://www.howardproducts.com/feednwax.htm


 
For the back of the neck use butcher's wax.  Any kind, though bowling is the best.
 
thanks for that. i'm about to get some lighter fuel(naptha) and some linseed oil. lemon oil really does work for my rosewood, but on the wenge it didn't seem to really restore it.
I'll probably get fret doctor after that(its a bit pricey), when i'm getting a cello, which will be expensive, i think thats usually reccomended for that application...

also... i have no case at the moment. i actually am keeping the guitar in a duvet.. is there an urgent need for a case with these unfinished woods?
 
If you go to Ace hardware, you can get a pint of "VM&P" naptha for $9 - it's a purer formulation for painting, cleaning etc.
 
Ken's thoughts -

Linseed oil - Bad. It is hydroscopic meaning it pulls water out of the air and into your neck.

Mineral oil - Bad. Great for cutting boards. It does not cure.

Naptha - Good for cleaning your frets.

WD-40 - Very bad on wood. Forget about ever putting any other finish on your neck after this gets on it. WD-40 is in the same family as motor oil and gasoline.
 
Watershed said:
Thanks Gregg,

So what does Ken recommend?
Sorry I didn't get back here quicker to answer your question. I'll get Ken's latest and greatest recommendations on Monday.
 
Linseed oil - Bad. It is hydroscopic meaning it pulls water out of the air and into your neck.
I agree with this.

Mineral oil - Bad. Great for cutting boards. It does not cure.
Sort of agree with this, but what does he recommend when your fretboard gets dried out over time?  And specifically, what is the active ingredient therein?

Naptha - Good for cleaning your frets.
I agree with this.

WD-40 - Very bad on wood. Forget about ever putting any other finish on your neck after this gets on it. WD-40 is in the same family as motor oil and gasoline.
What does he recommend for cleaning frets encrusted with sweat and gunk from a month of playing?


 
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