High E string - High pitch noise

[nikosss.b]

Hi everyone,

I own a 24 fret warmoth strat. I've been experiencing a high pitch noise whenever I pick the E string (very harsh glassy ice pick sound). I use 10-46 and the noise has been there for a while. It happens all over the fretboard but if I change my pick position and pick closer to the neck, the noise disappears. I usually pick right behind the middle pickup. And this only happens on the high E string. I've changed strings and it didn't help. I know from my luthier that my neck is dead straight. No way to easily fix it as the truss rod is loosened all the way. The neck wood is super stiff. I don't know if that's the cause but I'm assuming since just the high E is making that noise, it should be something else. I can post a sound sample if that would help. I just want to figure this out because it's really annoying.

Thanks,

Nick

 

[Cagey]

If it happens on any note rather than just open string, it could be a bridge saddle slot geometry problem. It's common on Tune-O-Matic bridges, or any bridge with that sort of saddle. If the exit end of the string (leading to the speaking length) is anything but square to the string, you can get funny high harmonics. Usually, just a few passes with an appropriate-sized file will fix it right up.

 

[AirCap]

Problem with bridge saddle or nut. Either needs a slight angle downward away from the plane of the fretboard.

 

[nikosss.b]

I've been testing this extensively and I noticed the following:

1. It happens on all notes on high E string and a bit less pronounced on the B string
2. It's also most pronounced on the bridge pickup (a JB in this case)
3. The more gain on the amp, the more the sound becomes annoying
4. Only happens with a pick; plucking the string does not recreate the problem

 

[nikosss.b]

If it happens on any note rather than just open string, it could be a bridge saddle slot geometry problem. It's common on Tune-O-Matic bridges, or any bridge with that sort of saddle. If the exit end of the string (leading to the speaking length) is anything but square to the string, you can get funny high harmonics. Usually, just a few passes with an appropriate-sided file will fix it right up.

Thanks Cagey! I have a Wilkinson VS-100 bridge. What's the best way to approach this?

 

[Cagey]

If you have some sort of magnifying glass or something, move the string off the saddle and have a look at it. Those saddles are pretty well-designed, and I've never had trouble with them over many, many installations, but manufacturing anomalies can always sneak through.

Also, I read of a similar problem elsewhere that turned out to be sympathetic vibrations from the vibrato springs. Might be worth stuffing some foam under or rubber tubing into the those springs and see if that helps.

 

[Steve_Karl]

on stuffing springs ...
I found that cutting strips of old t-shirt and pulling them through the springs then trimming the edges works well.
I use an old high e string folded then slipped all the way through the spring,
and then fold the t-shirt material into that and then just pull it back through the spring.

It takes one or 2 tries to get the t-shirt material the right thickness but I'm real pleased with this method.

 

[TBurst Std]

Curious, when I have had Springs resonate, it’s because the Spring tension is too loose. I lose a Spring and readjust the claw accordingly. (I view having the springs under consistent tension across the strings at any point as critical).  What advantage does the TShirt offer?

 

[Steve_Karl]

Curious, when I have had Springs resonate, it’s because the Spring tension is too loose. I lose a Spring and readjust the claw accordingly. (I view having the springs under consistent tension across the strings at any point as critical).  What advantage does the TShirt offer?

Turn your guitar over and strum across the springs with a pick and you'll hear them vibrate.
It doesn't matter how tight they are. They'll still resonate.
The stuffing deadens the vibration to a dull thud and doesn't effect tail piece performance at all.

It wasn't a really big problem for me until I installed a graphtech acousti-phonic system
and then the springs were really audible on recordings with the graphtech system.

The graphtech system is now gone, but still, for me, every little bit of sonic control helps.
I do a lot of very clean direct to sound card recordings.

Also, the springs were slightly audible on some sympathetic notes when playing unplugged.
Now that they're dampened that is all totally gone.

 

[fdesalvo]

Good points all.  To quell spring noise and maintain return to pitch on my floaters, I place a small piece of foam under the springs near the claw.  They need only lightly touch - a little tickle of the springs, as it were.

 

[rgand]

It sounds like a couple good solutions, there. Thanks, guys.

 

[bagman67]

This may be way-down-in-the-weeds anal-retentive, but I suppose you could also check the holes in the trem block that the spring ends go into and see if there are any burrs there.

 

[fdesalvo]

This may be way-down-in-the-weeds anal-retentive, but I suppose you could also check the holes in the trem block that the spring ends go into and see if there are any burrs there.

That's my kind of retentive!  I'd go further and take that sucker under and electron microscope in order to debur the deburring marks. 

It sounds like a couple good solutions, there. Thanks, guys.

Tickle the springs, Robert.  Tickle the springs.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Good attention to detail, gotta make sure there are no "Klingons"...

 

[nikosss.b]

Well that escalated quickly  :icon_biggrin:
Mine is not a spring issue. I used to have small plastic tubes wrapped in tape. I actually found that they kind of killed off some sustain. My problem is more on the saddle / nut / string tension I guess.
I always wondered if the distance between the bridge and the end of the neck is somehow longer on warmoth strats than on fender strats. Is it just me?

 

[Cagey]

If that dimension was different, Warmoth's necks wouldn't be able to be used as replacements for existing Fender parts. So, no.