Hardtailing a trem routed guitar from the start.

[ChristopherG]

If one were to order a trem routed model from the showcase and had them leave it as is--the back cavity only option--will there be enough wood, where the block cavity is, to secure a top loading hardtail such as the Schaller 475?

 

[Fat Pete]

I would say not as they only leave a thickness of about 1/8" - 3/16" and the mounting screws are highly likely to be going into the routed area. If you could find a bridge with the screws right in the corners it might work.

Reply #9 of this thread briefly shows what I did to convert a fully routed 6 screw trem body into a (12-string) hardtail. You could do something similar more easily if you left it 'cavity only'.

Also, check out this thread, among others, about the Scartozi bridge.

 

[pabloman]

This thing is available here http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bridges_hipshottrilogy.htm

 

[gjacob]

If you could cut a block to fit snugly and glue it in, I think it would work.  The glue line would show on the back as the wood pieces expand and contract, but the top should be fine.  Worth a shot.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

The Scartozi is likely your best bet, covers the hole from the front, solid tension producing firm coupling.

 

[fdesalvo]

This thing is available here http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bridges_hipshottrilogy.htm

WUT!

 

[swarfrat]

That thing isn't really necessary. Or at least the spring cavity portion of it is wasted effort. I'd just block the block area.

 

[pabloman]

It's not necessary for you. The guy that I know that used one was going for less of a "chunk of wood stuck in a hole in your guitar" look. He filled the gaps with Bondo and painted it up all pretty. Still looks good 5 years later. I've filled pickup cavities with wood plugs and bondo and haven't had any issues with wood expansion or contraction. There's interspecies lam tops all over the place and their glue ups are fine.

 

[ChristopherG]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

I am actually wanting to preserve the cavity on the back of the guitar. Nice place to put a preamp board.

Anyhoo, I also found that This Company makes an adapter plate for This Bridge. Going to pick a couple of those up in the near future. I have a guitar that could stand de-Floyding. Have to finish my Tele first though.

 

[Cagey]

For as attractive as the idea is, I'm not sure I'd want to "de-Floyd" a body. Potentially a lotta work there, and a lotta room for disappointment. Plus, there are still a few folks out there who seriously prefer that sort of vibrato bridge, so you should be able to sell the body/Floyd combo for a reasonable price. Floyds are expensive little rascals, so including one with a body makes the whole thing more attractive at sell-time. Take the money and buy the right body for what you want to do. I'd wager it'll end up cheaper/easier/faster/cleaner in the end.

 

[Ace Flibble]

Sure, because Warmoth bodies have such high resale value. :laughing7:

Throw some wood in there, finish over the top of it—or you can just use the old back cover plate to hide the mess—and re-drill. Done it a bunch of times to Fenders. It works out better than simply blocking the bridge or trying to mount a fixed bridge over the old cut without reinforcement.

 

[Cagey]

Hehe! Yeah, good point. I was just thinking along the lines of the amount of work it would take to make it aesthetically pleasing again.

 

[dmraco]

What is the original trem?  If It is a vintage 6 hole trem, just install the trem, tighten those screws and springs down all the way and you basically have a hard tail.  you can even but a trem lock.

Once you have a floyd or modern fender that you have to start filling, at least the two screw holes.  You WILL see the lines once stuff shrinks.  I filled a string thru.  No matter how much I sanded and filled, I can still see the outline when the light catches it the right way.  Like other said, there are bridges available that will over things up on the top.  I would just use a standard trem cavity cover on the back.  It will look better than a bunch of fill unless you are a Jedi Master.

 

[swarfrat]

You can always set a nice block of contrasting wood in there and finish smooth. That woudl be kinda cool.

 

[Fat Pete]

The OP's original question was about getting a 'your choice tremolo' body and leaving it as is - with only the rear cavity routed - so there wouldn't be a hole at all in the front.

 

[Cagey]

There you go, confusing the issue with facts!  :laughing7:

I missed that. If that's the case, then plugging the sustain block relief from the rear and leaving the spring cavity open would be puppy chow. Cover the whole thing with a standard cavity cover, and call it a love story. Front finish would be as good as if it were built as a hardtail to begin with.

 

[stratamania]

What I don't get is if a body is going to be bought then why not just get a hard tail from the start ?

 

[Cagey]

Sometimes you see something in the Showcase and just gotta have it, but it's less than ideal due to some detail or another. But, you might live with it if you can work around it because Showcase parts are anywhere from 15% to 25% cheaper than custom order parts, plus you often get 'em a lot faster. Especially if they're already finished.

 

[dmraco]

agree with Cagey.  I thought the guitar already had trem routed. 
Just throw a cavity cover on the back.  Good place to hide your stash...er picks!!! arty07:

 

[rgand]

Sometimes you see something in the Showcase and just gotta have it, but it's less than ideal due to some detail or another. But, you might live with it if you can work around it because Showcase parts are anywhere from 15% to 25% cheaper than custom order parts, plus you often get 'em a lot faster. Especially if they're already finished.

Damn, you just had to say that...