Hey everybody, I'm brand new here and pretty new to the partscaster/Warmoth thing as a whole. I'm currently working on doing the specs of the body on my strat build. I want a hardtail bridge because I find myself never using a tremolo when I have one. I want the bridge to be black, and I prefer a string through design. When searching on here I found a recommendation for the Hipshot hardtail quite a few times, but I don't see a rout option that matches the Hipshot. Any tips and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Hardtail Strat Questions
- Thread starter Jeffrey
- Start date
bagman67
Epic Member
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- 9,117
First, the Hipshot parts are indeed very well made. You can get them for much less than at the Hipshot website by going to
http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_hipshothardtail.htm
Other places also sell at a discount.
Warmoth dimensions are at:
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/BridgeRoutingOptions.aspx
Now, to address your question:
The Vintage Strat hardtail (wider string spacing at .446") drill-job at Warmoth corresponds to Vintage spacing for some Hipshot bridges, such as:
The "Modern" spacing is .430" between string holes, which is actually a tiny bit wider than the Warmoth modern hardtail rout of .416", but you can fudge it by getting the "Narrow Spaced Strat" holes drilled on your Warmoth body. The string hole spacing is the same, but the holes are larger so you still get clearance
THe American Standard Strat hardtail (narrower, modern spacing) is an exact match the Hipshot bridges with the raised surround:
http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_hipshothardtail.htm
Other places also sell at a discount.
Warmoth dimensions are at:
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/BridgeRoutingOptions.aspx
Now, to address your question:
The Vintage Strat hardtail (wider string spacing at .446") drill-job at Warmoth corresponds to Vintage spacing for some Hipshot bridges, such as:
The "Modern" spacing is .430" between string holes, which is actually a tiny bit wider than the Warmoth modern hardtail rout of .416", but you can fudge it by getting the "Narrow Spaced Strat" holes drilled on your Warmoth body. The string hole spacing is the same, but the holes are larger so you still get clearance
THe American Standard Strat hardtail (narrower, modern spacing) is an exact match the Hipshot bridges with the raised surround:
The bridge I was interested in was the bridge with the raised surround. When looking at the dimmensions on Hipshot's website it appears that the Warmoth dimensions were different
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong dimensions on Warmoth's site or I'm just missing something, but it looks like the mounting holes are off by almost 0.05 of an inch. And the string through holes look like they'd be off by 0.003 of an inch.
Also which floor height would work best, .125 or .175?
Now looking at the difference in those measurements they are very close. I work at a place that produces aerospace parts and knee replacements so seeing that difference originally looked like a huge deal to me. Would that difference be negligible?
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong dimensions on Warmoth's site or I'm just missing something, but it looks like the mounting holes are off by almost 0.05 of an inch. And the string through holes look like they'd be off by 0.003 of an inch.
Also which floor height would work best, .125 or .175?
Now looking at the difference in those measurements they are very close. I work at a place that produces aerospace parts and knee replacements so seeing that difference originally looked like a huge deal to me. Would that difference be negligible?
BigSteve22
Hero Member
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- 2,798
Another good dealer for Hipshot ANYTHING, is SportHiTech, http://www.sporthitech.com/music/
If you find something on the Hipshot site that isn't listed on SportHiTech's site, just email them. The'll get it for you at considerably less $. I buy from them all the time. :icon_thumright:
If you find something on the Hipshot site that isn't listed on SportHiTech's site, just email them. The'll get it for you at considerably less $. I buy from them all the time. :icon_thumright:
Sovereign_13
Senior Member
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- 311
I expect you'll be okay. The holes in the Hipshot bridge are a bit bigger than the American Standard bridge route holes, which takes care of most of the dimensional differences. Wood is also likely a lot more forgiving than anything you're making in the aerospace or biomedical industries. Wood screws will go wherever you let/make them, and there's plenty of clearance for even the beefiest guitar strings to make it through an alignment offset on the order of tenths of a millimeter.
I can see how that much slop in a dimension might be off-putting if you're used to ultra-tight tolerances, though. In some industries, five thousandths may as well be a mile. Best of luck on your project.
I can see how that much slop in a dimension might be off-putting if you're used to ultra-tight tolerances, though. In some industries, five thousandths may as well be a mile. Best of luck on your project.
drysideshooter
Junior Member
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- 49
Jeffery this was a very timely post for me. I just ordered a body and neck from Warmoth, and am building a hardtail as well. I have big hands and fingers, so ordered the vintage Fender spacing that has the .446" string spacing. Hipshot has a hardtail bridge, the one without the surround, that is made to work with that spacing. Might be something to consider depending on your hand size and string spacing preference.
I am also considering going with the black bridge. I have read elsewhere that it may not be conductive, so I'm curious as to how to go about grounding it if it isn't? I know on some bridges like the Hannes I have read about folks running a short wire from each of the ferulles so they are in contact with each other, and then a ground wire from the end ferrule to a grounding location. That also makes me wonder if someone goes with the black ferrules if they are conductive? Any advice anyone can offer on grounding one of the black bridges would be most appreciated.
I am also considering going with the black bridge. I have read elsewhere that it may not be conductive, so I'm curious as to how to go about grounding it if it isn't? I know on some bridges like the Hannes I have read about folks running a short wire from each of the ferulles so they are in contact with each other, and then a ground wire from the end ferrule to a grounding location. That also makes me wonder if someone goes with the black ferrules if they are conductive? Any advice anyone can offer on grounding one of the black bridges would be most appreciated.
I see now on the website that underneath the bridge routes they actually have it listed that they will hand rout for the Hipshot Flat Mount SB 5105-010 (the bridge with the raised sides). But it does cost additional money and you have to send in your exact bridge. When looking back and the dimensions I realized that the string through holes would in fact work, but I was more worried about the mounting holes as there are more off. But it is still a small amount, possibly small enough that the mounting hole makes no difference as the screw still takes up the gap. Is there anyone who has personally put one of these bridges on their guitar, if so what bridge rout was used?
stratamania
Mythical Status
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- 11,932
I have had a different bridge that is on the list routed for with an extra cost without sending in the actual bridge. All it took was a couple of e-mails.
I'm very interested in this topic as I'm considering a Soloist build.
1) May I know which floor height would work best, .125 or .175 if I'm going for a contoured heel?
2) Also, if I am not using a pickguard, and I ask for a 720 mod, does that mean the .125 floor height is more suitable?
Thanks in advance!
1) May I know which floor height would work best, .125 or .175 if I'm going for a contoured heel?
2) Also, if I am not using a pickguard, and I ask for a 720 mod, does that mean the .125 floor height is more suitable?
Thanks in advance!
Sovereign_13
Senior Member
- Messages
- 311
The contoured heel option is on the back of the heel. It doesn't affect how the neck sits in the pocket. It just removes some of the wood between your hand and the heel of the neck where it joins the body.
As for the 720 mod, normally you have a ~1/8" (0.125") gap between the body of the guitar and the underside of the fretboard overhang according to Warmoth. That accommodates the 0.09" most modern pickguards need with a little tolerance built in. The 720 mod takes out 0.095" of that gap.
So with a little math, you have 0.03" (~1/32) of gap plus the ~0.25" of fretboard, so 0.28". Plus frets and clearance for action, and you should be firmly in the 0.30-0.47 range of string height adjustment for the 0.125" floor height bridge. That's a long way of saying the 0.125 floor height is the one you want.
What I don't know is if the shorter screws used for the contoured heel will still be too long if you also do the 720 mod. Or if there's enough wood there for Warmoth to allow you to do both. I don't think either mod removes enough wood to be a problem, but it's worth it to shoot Warmoth an email or phone call since they're the experts.
As for the 720 mod, normally you have a ~1/8" (0.125") gap between the body of the guitar and the underside of the fretboard overhang according to Warmoth. That accommodates the 0.09" most modern pickguards need with a little tolerance built in. The 720 mod takes out 0.095" of that gap.
So with a little math, you have 0.03" (~1/32) of gap plus the ~0.25" of fretboard, so 0.28". Plus frets and clearance for action, and you should be firmly in the 0.30-0.47 range of string height adjustment for the 0.125" floor height bridge. That's a long way of saying the 0.125 floor height is the one you want.
What I don't know is if the shorter screws used for the contoured heel will still be too long if you also do the 720 mod. Or if there's enough wood there for Warmoth to allow you to do both. I don't think either mod removes enough wood to be a problem, but it's worth it to shoot Warmoth an email or phone call since they're the experts.
frown
Senior Member
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I've got various combinations of 720 mod, contour heels and the Hipshot hardtail.
I would recommend the 0.175 height option for everything!
The reason being, that my 0.125 ones need the saddles raised slightly steeper than I'd like, to provide the action height desired. While this is fine and the action screws are of ample length, the corner of the saddles is not so comfortable at the resulting pitch...
Hipshot should round these ends off like the U part to make them ultra comfy!
I would recommend the 0.175 height option for everything!
The reason being, that my 0.125 ones need the saddles raised slightly steeper than I'd like, to provide the action height desired. While this is fine and the action screws are of ample length, the corner of the saddles is not so comfortable at the resulting pitch...
Hipshot should round these ends off like the U part to make them ultra comfy!
